Poor man's method to better belt wrap on an fbody
10-22-2009, 10:23 AM
#22
Thanks guys 
Mike yea, the bolt pattern is the same for the P1/ D1 and the F1 series, so an additional hole may need to be drilled in your bracket if you want to keep the 5 bolts that it has holding it on. The aluminum brackets cut like butter tho, so shouldnt be too hard. Hardest part will be countersinking it.
Mike yea, the bolt pattern is the same for the P1/ D1 and the F1 series, so an additional hole may need to be drilled in your bracket if you want to keep the 5 bolts that it has holding it on. The aluminum brackets cut like butter tho, so shouldnt be too hard. Hardest part will be countersinking it.
10-22-2009, 10:54 AM
#23
Thanks guys
Mike yea, the bolt pattern is the same for the P1/ D1 and the F1 series, so an additional hole may need to be drilled in your bracket if you want to keep the 5 bolts that it has holding it on. The aluminum brackets cut like butter tho, so shouldnt be too hard. Hardest part will be countersinking it.
Mike yea, the bolt pattern is the same for the P1/ D1 and the F1 series, so an additional hole may need to be drilled in your bracket if you want to keep the 5 bolts that it has holding it on. The aluminum brackets cut like butter tho, so shouldnt be too hard. Hardest part will be countersinking it.
10-22-2009, 05:16 PM
#28
I just went for a little test drive, and it definitely feels a lot better throughout the entire RPM range. It just feels so much crisper than before. I tried to get a max boost reading several times, but as soon as I'd get to about 5000-5500rpm, the tires would break loose. Tried in 2nd and 3rd gears with same results. Didnt help that the pavement is cold and has been rained on for the last couple days. I had to cut the test drive short because it started sprinkling. I did however manage to hit 12psi before it started spinning the tires. And I still had another 1000rpm to go in my powerband, so I'm sure that it will make every bit of the 13psi it was making before this nifty little mod if not more. I'll be surprised if it hits 14 honestly because I wouldn't have thought that a 4.25 pulley would be slipping much at all! But then again, with 1000rpm still on the table, and only 2psi more to hit that 14 mark, I'd be surprised if it didnt hit 14 too
10-22-2009, 08:50 PM
#32
Good info to know right there.. I'd still feel better havin as many bolts in there as possible, but thats a nice little tidbit to keep in the back of my mind
I just went for a little test drive, and it definitely feels a lot better throughout the entire RPM range. It just feels so much crisper than before. I tried to get a max boost reading several times, but as soon as I'd get to about 5000-5500rpm, the tires would break loose. Tried in 2nd and 3rd gears with same results. Didnt help that the pavement is cold and has been rained on for the last couple days. I had to cut the test drive short because it started sprinkling. I did however manage to hit 12psi before it started spinning the tires. And I still had another 1000rpm to go in my powerband, so I'm sure that it will make every bit of the 13psi it was making before this nifty little mod if not more. I'll be surprised if it hits 14 honestly because I wouldn't have thought that a 4.25 pulley would be slipping much at all! But then again, with 1000rpm still on the table, and only 2psi more to hit that 14 mark, I'd be surprised if it didnt hit 14 too
I just went for a little test drive, and it definitely feels a lot better throughout the entire RPM range. It just feels so much crisper than before. I tried to get a max boost reading several times, but as soon as I'd get to about 5000-5500rpm, the tires would break loose. Tried in 2nd and 3rd gears with same results. Didnt help that the pavement is cold and has been rained on for the last couple days. I had to cut the test drive short because it started sprinkling. I did however manage to hit 12psi before it started spinning the tires. And I still had another 1000rpm to go in my powerband, so I'm sure that it will make every bit of the 13psi it was making before this nifty little mod if not more. I'll be surprised if it hits 14 honestly because I wouldn't have thought that a 4.25 pulley would be slipping much at all! But then again, with 1000rpm still on the table, and only 2psi more to hit that 14 mark, I'd be surprised if it didnt hit 14 too
Solve one problem and cause another lol. What tires are you running on? Congrats on getting rid of the belt slip, that pully set up is bad ***
10-22-2009, 11:26 PM
#33
Yea, I'm shocked at the amount of belt wrap thats achieved with such a simple and cheap mod!
I'm running 285/30/19 dunlop sp sport 9000 tires on my CCWs. I know the low profile tires wrapped on 19's doesnt really help at all for traction lol
I'm running 285/30/19 dunlop sp sport 9000 tires on my CCWs. I know the low profile tires wrapped on 19's doesnt really help at all for traction lol
10-23-2009, 06:23 AM
#35
10-23-2009, 05:08 PM
#38
Thanks
Here are the dimensions *I* came up with for the 3.5" idler I originally designed it for. The smaller procharger 8 rib idler seemed to fit these dimensions as well. The stock accessory idler fit also, but I had to shim it out with a washer by about .100 from the hex part of the standoff. If you plan on doing this, you'd be better to make sure to measure yourself to make 100% sure of your dimensions.
In other words, ***I'm not responsible if you F things up using the dimensions that worked for me!***
I have had several PMs asking me to make people standoffs. I can't have my dad keep sliding these under the table at his work. If I were to make one from scratch, I'd probably want to start by using a stronger material than aluminum- something like stainless steel, and have them machined for that. Since I have had so many requests, I am going to take the initiative of talking to a local machine shop and seeing what they would charge for a batch of 10 or so. I don't have the money to throw down and just put up front, however, I'll post the price they quote me and then if we can get a group of people together, I don't mind picking them up from the shop and shipping them out. I'm not looking to turn a huge profit or anything here (if I were, I wouldn't have posted the exact dimensions), I'm just tryin to help the LS1tech community out
Here are the dimensions *I* came up with for the 3.5" idler I originally designed it for. The smaller procharger 8 rib idler seemed to fit these dimensions as well. The stock accessory idler fit also, but I had to shim it out with a washer by about .100 from the hex part of the standoff. If you plan on doing this, you'd be better to make sure to measure yourself to make 100% sure of your dimensions.
In other words, ***I'm not responsible if you F things up using the dimensions that worked for me!***
I have had several PMs asking me to make people standoffs. I can't have my dad keep sliding these under the table at his work. If I were to make one from scratch, I'd probably want to start by using a stronger material than aluminum- something like stainless steel, and have them machined for that. Since I have had so many requests, I am going to take the initiative of talking to a local machine shop and seeing what they would charge for a batch of 10 or so. I don't have the money to throw down and just put up front, however, I'll post the price they quote me and then if we can get a group of people together, I don't mind picking them up from the shop and shipping them out. I'm not looking to turn a huge profit or anything here (if I were, I wouldn't have posted the exact dimensions), I'm just tryin to help the LS1tech community out
10-24-2009, 03:01 PM
#40
Took the TA out for some test driving today. Its sunny and about 70* and traction conditions are way better than they were the other day, but I still can't get past 5000-5500 RPM without spinning the tires 
I even tried in 4th gear a couple times. It sure is scary having the tires break loose at 90mph! 
I even tried in 4th gear a couple times. It sure is scary having the tires break loose at 90mph!