Thiking about switching power adders
Thiking about switching power adders Ok so right now i'm running a wet 125 shot but have been thinking about switching to a turbo but have run into a couple questions and was thinking you guys could help..
1) How much boost would it take to make the same power if not more than my current 125 shot
2) How big of a turbo would i need for this
3) How much would a custom intercooler kit cost to build if i do most of the work.
4) If you have any custom kits on a LT1 please post pics
I've been looking at doing a boost setup but have thought about pros and cons, like you always have the power there but you always have stress on the setup.
1) How much boost would it take to make the same power if not more than my current 125 shot
2) How big of a turbo would i need for this
3) How much would a custom intercooler kit cost to build if i do most of the work.
4) If you have any custom kits on a LT1 please post pics
I've been looking at doing a boost setup but have thought about pros and cons, like you always have the power there but you always have stress on the setup.
Ok so right now i'm running a wet 125 shot but have been thinking about switching to a turbo but have run into a couple questions and was thinking you guys could help..
1) How much boost would it take to make the same power if not more than my current 125 shot
2) How big of a turbo would i need for this
3) How much would a custom intercooler kit cost to build if i do most of the work.
4) If you have any custom kits on a LT1 please post pics
I've been looking at doing a boost setup but have thought about pros and cons, like you always have the power there but you always have stress on the setup.
1) How much boost would it take to make the same power if not more than my current 125 shot
2) How big of a turbo would i need for this
3) How much would a custom intercooler kit cost to build if i do most of the work.
4) If you have any custom kits on a LT1 please post pics
I've been looking at doing a boost setup but have thought about pros and cons, like you always have the power there but you always have stress on the setup.
We would need to know a few things:
1. Current power the car
2. Plans to go any further (this will help decide on what turbo as to not buy a small one now and want to go bigger later)
3. Transmission Type
4. You could do a truck kit and save yourself a TON of money and add an ebay intercooler. Plus you would not have to make your own manifolds and what not
Well as far as a power level i would say on spray i'm pushing the 500 mark, and just like any other car guy i plan on going further in the future with wanting more power on motor and if i go boosted i would want more boost probably so i don't want a turbo that will only push 12lbs. Currently i am running a built 4L60E with a fuddle 3400, and as far as the custom kit goes i was looking at buying truck manifolds to beggin with.
Well as far as a power level i would say on spray i'm pushing the 500 mark, and just like any other car guy i plan on going further in the future with wanting more power on motor and if i go boosted i would want more boost probably so i don't want a turbo that will only push 12lbs. Currently i am running a built 4L60E with a fuddle 3400, and as far as the custom kit goes i was looking at buying truck manifolds to beggin with.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Norn Iron
I dont know much about LT1's.
But if anyone cant hit 500+ with a turbocharged 5.7 litre engine, then there is something seriously wrong
That sort of power will be very easy to achieve, and then some.
But if anyone cant hit 500+ with a turbocharged 5.7 litre engine, then there is something seriously wrong
That sort of power will be very easy to achieve, and then some.
I would grab a mpt76 and do a truck maifold set-up.
here's most of the pics I took while doing mine
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/10757/67487
I did it all myself so I saved alot of money that way. I spent just under 2500 to build it . using a mp76 q trim,jgs 50mm gate,hks ssqv, ebay 24x12x4 FMIC and a 3" alum. piping kit off of ebay, aem tur boost,aem wideband,plus a oil temp gauge.
I should note that I already had a good clutch,42# injectors,225/hot wire kit.
it has taken me to a 11.7 at 125 (stock rear)
with a 1.9 60' need more seat time and it can go 10's. well after I get a rear end. 
that is on 7lbs. stock bottom end,ls6 cam.
I went the turbo route because I didnt want the stress of a all motor build. if you think about it, a stock bottom with ls6 is nothing crazy in power. so in all reality your driving around with maybe 400 crank hp, great driveabilty,nice and quite. then you down shift,stab it and it jumps to 600 whp.
on the other hand if you have a H/C and a shot making 600 whp, your driving around surging, with more torque,more hp, more stress on the motor. you have to keep it in a higher rpm to avoid surging, shift at a higher rpm, and have a much greater chance of getting on it due to the fact that your now in the power band. (atleast for me)
I can drive all day with out anyone knowing that the car is making close to 600hp, drives like stock,quite,and is just a down shift away from tearing the doors off 99% of the cars I come across.
here's most of the pics I took while doing mine
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/10757/67487
I did it all myself so I saved alot of money that way. I spent just under 2500 to build it . using a mp76 q trim,jgs 50mm gate,hks ssqv, ebay 24x12x4 FMIC and a 3" alum. piping kit off of ebay, aem tur boost,aem wideband,plus a oil temp gauge.
I should note that I already had a good clutch,42# injectors,225/hot wire kit.
it has taken me to a 11.7 at 125 (stock rear)
with a 1.9 60' need more seat time and it can go 10's. well after I get a rear end. that is on 7lbs. stock bottom end,ls6 cam. I went the turbo route because I didnt want the stress of a all motor build. if you think about it, a stock bottom with ls6 is nothing crazy in power. so in all reality your driving around with maybe 400 crank hp, great driveabilty,nice and quite. then you down shift,stab it and it jumps to 600 whp.
on the other hand if you have a H/C and a shot making 600 whp, your driving around surging, with more torque,more hp, more stress on the motor. you have to keep it in a higher rpm to avoid surging, shift at a higher rpm, and have a much greater chance of getting on it due to the fact that your now in the power band. (atleast for me)
I can drive all day with out anyone knowing that the car is making close to 600hp, drives like stock,quite,and is just a down shift away from tearing the doors off 99% of the cars I come across.
Last edited by needaz28; Nov 1, 2009 at 11:36 AM.
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what kind of compression are you running? I dont know much ab out lt's, but any thing over 9.5:1 it shouldnt take more the 7-8 lbs to crack 500. there are alot of things that will play in to it all, but no more then 10lbs. 10 lbs is either alot or hardly anything. it all depends on your CR,condition of the enigne, you might get 10 hp per lbs, or you might get 25. the more compression you have the less boost you need, on the flip side the more compression you have the eaiser it is to blow it up.
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Verdad Gallardo Yeah i know my compression is pushing the limit with stock internals. I have about 10.7:1 so i wouldn't want to push it more than 8 lbs on this setup. But i want to know if the 8lbs can make the power i'm looking for. The engine is in very good condition, it was rebuilt about 6,000 miles ago, i have full bolt-ons and a strong valve train with a good sized custom cam.
What's been done internally to your motor? Two bolt main? Stock Crank or forged? Stock rods or Forged? Stock pistons or Forged? Stock heads or Aftermarket?
A non-BB (Ball Bearing) TC76 like I have will get you what you need for a good price. These guys mentioning truck manifolds... I think they're under the impression you have an LSx. I don't think any trucks came with an LTx
A non-BB (Ball Bearing) TC76 like I have will get you what you need for a good price. These guys mentioning truck manifolds... I think they're under the impression you have an LSx. I don't think any trucks came with an LTx
Everything in the bottom end is stock, I already plan on going forged in the future but i want to get the power before i do it. No i don't have a LS plat for, stil got the little LT1. I've heard of people running truck manifolds on these from mid 90's trucks, so i think i can do that as far as te manifolds or just go back with the stock manifolds and flip them around.
If any one has a front mount turbo setup on a LT1 can you post them up or give me a link to check them out.
If any one has a front mount turbo setup on a LT1 can you post them up or give me a link to check them out.
I was looking at a T70 but i see you have a T76, is there any draw back to runing the 70?Also where are you tapping into to get the oil to the turbo, i was looking at t-ing off the oil pressure sending unit?
**** with that much compression you can crack 500 with 3-4 lbs.
I made 450 on a stock ls bottom end when I had my sts. 4-5 lbs very safe tune. (10.5:1) a/f ratio and 550 with 10 psi same a/f ratio. that was with stock 10:1 compression. I would get the 76 for a little bit more it will take you alot further down the road.
I made 450 on a stock ls bottom end when I had my sts. 4-5 lbs very safe tune. (10.5:1) a/f ratio and 550 with 10 psi same a/f ratio. that was with stock 10:1 compression. I would get the 76 for a little bit more it will take you alot further down the road.
I don't know anything about the other turbos, to tell the truth
The 70 would probably be fine for the power level you're looking for. Try to find out what the A/R for your proposed turbo is. Mine is .96 for the TC76 (The "C" is for "C"ompact Housing. An easier fit for a front mount that keeps all the accessories in our tight confines Fbodies ) A smaller A/R means it will spool quicker but will give up some on the top end. Conversely, A large A/R value (say 1.3) will spool slower(more turbo lag) but will give more on the top end. These are broad generalities but kinda ball park specs.
The oil supply for the turbo comes out of that little plug above the oil filter mounting surface. Just take that plug out, screw in the little fitting, hook up your oil like (the fitting and the oil line are on my page http://www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/Tur...oOilSystem.htm. It's the little blue fitting on the right in the top picture.
The 70 would probably be fine for the power level you're looking for. Try to find out what the A/R for your proposed turbo is. Mine is .96 for the TC76 (The "C" is for "C"ompact Housing. An easier fit for a front mount that keeps all the accessories in our tight confines Fbodies
) A smaller A/R means it will spool quicker but will give up some on the top end. Conversely, A large A/R value (say 1.3) will spool slower(more turbo lag) but will give more on the top end. These are broad generalities but kinda ball park specs.The oil supply for the turbo comes out of that little plug above the oil filter mounting surface. Just take that plug out, screw in the little fitting, hook up your oil like (the fitting and the oil line are on my page http://www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/Tur...oOilSystem.htm. It's the little blue fitting on the right in the top picture.
What he's saying is very important. The TUNE is everything.
**** with that much compression you can crack 500 with 3-4 lbs.
I made 450 on a stock ls bottom end when I had my sts. 4-5 lbs very safe tune. (10.5:1) a/f ratio and 550 with 10 psi same a/f ratio. that was with stock 10:1 compression. I would get the 76 for a little bit more it will take you alot further down the road.
I made 450 on a stock ls bottom end when I had my sts. 4-5 lbs very safe tune. (10.5:1) a/f ratio and 550 with 10 psi same a/f ratio. that was with stock 10:1 compression. I would get the 76 for a little bit more it will take you alot further down the road.
Well after looking at your kit i think i can build this kit from scratch for farely cheap and get some good numbers out of it. I think on my current bottom end i would only push 7-9 lbs but when i go forged i would go for 12-14 if not more, but can the 70 give me those boost numers?
Well after looking at your kit i think i can build this kit from scratch for farely cheap and get some good numbers out of it. I think on my current bottom end i would only push 7-9 lbs but when i go forged i would go for 12-14 if not more, but can the 70 give me those boost numers?
You can easily build it and run 7-9 psi with good gas and I would put meth on it as well.
Then forge it and crank it up, get it done man, seems like alot of local guys are going front mount this winter
Yeah it seems like us colorado guys are tired of fighting the high altitude and choosing boost lately. I love the hit of the 125 shot but i don't like the fact of haveing to refill bottles every other weekend, i want something that will always be there when i want it.
I think you will be where you want to be with 7-9 psi and with the auto and a 2 step and slicks you will hit your numbers your after at the track, good luck with the build ill watch it on the other sites.