Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

Intercooler piping help

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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 09:07 PM
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Default Intercooler piping help

Can someone post up pics of their intercooler setup for a FMIC and a procharger? Not sure if I could run a silicone 90 degree elbow off the throttle body and then pick up with the aluminum piping or if I need to make an elbow out of the piping and connect it with a 4" to 3 1/2" reducer. It would be easier to use a silicone 90 but I dont want this thing blowing off under boost.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 09:23 PM
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Many builds use the silicon 90 degree elbow. You wont have a problem with it if you get a good elbow. With that said i perfer the bend in the pipe with just a straight silicone adapter. Just personal preference.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 10:07 PM
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Here's what I did, just a 4" to 3" straight reducer with a 90 in the intercooler pipe. I figure since the blower and the intercooler all have 3" outlets I'd just stick with 3" all the way, but I suppose you might be able to get away with 3.5" pipe. The 90's on all my pipes weren't sharp enough to fit the pipe in front of the radiator. I should have mounted the bypass valve maybe an inch lower on the pipe though.





The rest of the mock up pictures can be seen here.

Last edited by Aster; Nov 1, 2009 at 10:11 PM. Reason: Added link
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 10:48 PM
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I am running 3 inch pipe but my throttle body is a 90mm which is right around 4 inches, my MAF is 3.5 inches. I dont think my bends are tight enough to make that bend that goes to the throttle body. The silicone pieces I've been looking at are the ones at siliconeintakes.com . Also on the bypass valve I thought they were supposed to be mounted before the intercooler, not after.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 11:14 PM
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I started out with EPP kit, but the uncoated steel pipe rusted bad inside and out so switched to aluminum and routed the pipe to raise everything above the plastic shields that attach to the fenders. I couldn't find a coater that could guarantee complete covereage inside the pipes. Plus aluminum is much lighter than steel.

I removed the air pump to make room for a larger filter. Charger is a D1SC. Filter is KN E-1009

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 11:35 PM
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After the last motor I decided I didn't want my computer guessing anymore and dropped the MAF. So far been one of the best decisions I've made I think. The SD tune runs so much better than my MAF tune ever did before or after the Procharger.

I wanted the bypass valve close to the throttle body to get the air out with as little reversion needed as possible. I don't think in my case it makes much difference. The air isn't really heated until it is under pressure anyway. The valve could be placed in the bend before the intercooler in the fender well, but I kind of like it where it is.

As above I used aluminum piping and had a flange made for the bypass valve. I got the stock plastic panels to fit underneath and just had to cut circles in the sides for the air filter pipe on the driver side and the IC pipe on the passanger side. The 9" cone filter fits nicely in the fender well behind the pipe on it's way up.

Last edited by Aster; Nov 1, 2009 at 11:43 PM.
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