ProCharger FMIC Pipe Routing Question
ProCharger FMIC Pipe Routing Question I will be installing a FMIC on my 02 Z28 (w/soon to be installed D1SC). I have seen the inter cooler piping running up the drivers side to the throttle body. I also have seen it routed up the passenger side. Why the difference? Is one way easier to route then the other? What should I be taking into account when I choose which way to go? Thanks
Think it's just personal preference. Click on my sig pic if you want to see some pics of a FMIC with pipe coming up on driver side. Should be some pics with bumper removed towards the back of the thread.
Like the others said it is mostly just which ever is easiest to get to fit cleanly and with the prochargers it is usually easier and a better transition to route the charge pipe to the passenger side and come up the drivers side especially if you don't relocate your battery etc... GL!
Like the others said it is mostly just which ever is easiest to get to fit cleanly and with the prochargers it is usually easier and a better transition to route the charge pipe to the passenger side and come up the drivers side especially if you don't relocate your battery etc... GL!
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You don't absolutly have too, but with the lower radiator hoses,A/C hoses, battery cables etc... coming up on that side is definately going to require some extra work if you don't relocate the battery that is the reason most come up the driverside. Also with the way the procharger is posistioned on the front of the motor it will require a few tight bends to connect the charge pipe to the intercooler on the driverside and the more bends the more pressure drop you will have across the charge pipe. Granted it probably isn't much if even measurable, but its just another reason most choose the other routing. I use a 3.5"-4" charge pipe and coming up the passenger side is impossible for me but its your car do what you like! GL!
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As stated in previous posts above it is much easier and cheaper (welding costs) to route the pipe up on the driver's side.
Below are pics of the EPP steel piping but I started to get rust on the inside of the pipe and coaters couldn't guarantee complete coverage on the inside.
To reduce weight and rust I switched to aluminum piping and modified some the bends to make room for a much bigger filter and to make it easier to install and clean the filter. Modifiying the bends on the driver side also allows the attachment of the stock plastic shielding.
Tip: It is much easier to install and disassemble the piping if you split the upward pipe on the driver's side rather than leaving it as one piece.
If I had to do it over I would remove the bumper rather than cutting it. Then I would have added brackets and bolted the FMIC directly to the frame. Removing the bumper makes room for a trans cooler on the passenger side and an alky pump on the driver side.
I plan to modify the FMIC bracket this winter. I will remove the rest of the cut bumper and rehang the trans cooler and alky pump.
EPP steel piping
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
Custom Aluminum Piping
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
Below are pics of the EPP steel piping but I started to get rust on the inside of the pipe and coaters couldn't guarantee complete coverage on the inside.
To reduce weight and rust I switched to aluminum piping and modified some the bends to make room for a much bigger filter and to make it easier to install and clean the filter. Modifiying the bends on the driver side also allows the attachment of the stock plastic shielding.
Tip: It is much easier to install and disassemble the piping if you split the upward pipe on the driver's side rather than leaving it as one piece.
If I had to do it over I would remove the bumper rather than cutting it. Then I would have added brackets and bolted the FMIC directly to the frame. Removing the bumper makes room for a trans cooler on the passenger side and an alky pump on the driver side.
I plan to modify the FMIC bracket this winter. I will remove the rest of the cut bumper and rehang the trans cooler and alky pump.
EPP steel piping
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
Custom Aluminum Piping
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; Dec 1, 2009 at 11:13 AM.
I made all my piping and decided to go up the passenger side. I thought it was easier to go up the pass side rather than try and go through the fuse box and all that crap. Didnt relocate anything besides my horns and cruise control
fmic, hose, installing, intercooler, ls, ls1tech, piping, plumbing, procharger, radiator, route, routing
