The cost of boost for the LS1.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,259
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From: Valrico, Florida
Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
The big motor + nitrous guys always wish they had FI. Grass is always greener.
You are correct John. If there was a setup I could ACTUALLY afford to drive daily and make 600rwhp plus w/out worry I would, but nitrous done right is hard to beat. Just ask some of our 800rwhp plus Supra guys who are getting beat by us with a little bitty 346ci and a 250 shot from a 30mph roll and shutting down at 180-190mph. The funny thing is my buddy accomplished this with a 2.73 gear and a M6.
Originally Posted by 69firebird
well, I know that if I had it to do over again, I would have built a stroker motor, and been done with it.
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From: Grove City Ohio/Port Washington L.I sometimes
Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
The big motor + nitrous guys always wish they had FI. Grass is always greener.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 553
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From: Columbia, MD
Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
The big motor + nitrous guys always wish they had FI. Grass is always greener.
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Columbia, MD
Originally Posted by 422 SS
Crunch I know exactly what you mean.It was about a $10,000 mistake for me.
y2khawk, how much did ur twin set up cost ya? and can u run ur TT setup on an otherwise stock motor? I'm curious about the differences between a twin vs. single turbo set up. im thinking twin would much more $$, but on a stock engine would it perform amazingly better?
LOL, i'm not gonna 
My setup is not for a stock motor in any way, never meant to be.
An Incon kit, if you can find one, it's good for a stock motor.
twin vs single is a constant debate, all depends on what you wanna do, and on what setup
My setup is not for a stock motor in any way, never meant to be.
An Incon kit, if you can find one, it's good for a stock motor.
twin vs single is a constant debate, all depends on what you wanna do, and on what setup
i was thinking about the qmp kit, im sure in my mind i have bent reality to fit what i want, but does this make sense. i want to run 11's or close to that, and i want to be very streetable. no n2o. with the all mighty boost controller, i was thinking for just daily driving 3 psi or whatever, some safe yet fun low number, then when i get serious 7-10 psi. the motor would be stock just long enough for me to then aford other life prolonging things for it to be safe under boost. now where did i go wrong?
okay, yeah i relize speed is addictive, if i get one more ticket i'll be walking, and i have a radar detector...
but alot of the f/i guys are saying that want to go back to n/a or just spray the motor. is that because you just want really fast times? should i keep dreaming about a turbo for a decently fast car that i can drive on the road...or just do typical heads, cam, etc... because i've like the idea of a boost controller ever since i've heard a BOV and seen a turbo...
but alot of the f/i guys are saying that want to go back to n/a or just spray the motor. is that because you just want really fast times? should i keep dreaming about a turbo for a decently fast car that i can drive on the road...or just do typical heads, cam, etc... because i've like the idea of a boost controller ever since i've heard a BOV and seen a turbo...
Agree with PSJ, as an avid Nitrous Consumer, I do think about FI all the time, but not at the cost. I envy the SC guys that dont have belt slippage, and turbo guys with solid, uncracked manifolds. But, a 10lb bottle of boost is all I need to move quickly here and there.
stoleit - I think the main reason is most of those people were looking for a certain amount of HP but were not looking to spend all the time and more on FI. It wasnt until today that I really realized when adding everything up that any FI setup that puts out 500rwhp or more and sees track duty is going to cost about $10 grand and then you also need cash on the side in case you blow the motor. The fuel system alone is for 500hp is around $1000, the kit or custom setup is another $4000+, tuning is another $1000, if you have it installed = another $1000+. As you can see we are at $7000+, and the engine could still have a problem, and you will have to beef up you tranny and differential. In the end, an FI setup must also have a N/A buildup.
On the other hand you have nitrous, the kit is 1/4 the cost of supercharger kit, anybody with a 150 shot tuned right can hit near 500hp for less than half the price of a supercharger. But the downside is it doesnt have the "coolness" factor and the fact that you only have 500hp as long as you have juice in the bottle.
The N/A route is for those that dont plan on blowing up their motors, although it seems to happen just as often. The only reason most of these guys seem to be going faster is because they have gutted cars and low raceweights while most FI cars weigh in at 3600+. A N/A setup is also the easiest to tune and most consistant.
On the other hand you have nitrous, the kit is 1/4 the cost of supercharger kit, anybody with a 150 shot tuned right can hit near 500hp for less than half the price of a supercharger. But the downside is it doesnt have the "coolness" factor and the fact that you only have 500hp as long as you have juice in the bottle.
The N/A route is for those that dont plan on blowing up their motors, although it seems to happen just as often. The only reason most of these guys seem to be going faster is because they have gutted cars and low raceweights while most FI cars weigh in at 3600+. A N/A setup is also the easiest to tune and most consistant.
Originally Posted by y2khawk
dunno
if smokin would turn his **** up he might make it
if smokin would turn his **** up he might make it
next year, just needed to get some issues worked out
I guess i need to stop being the pump gas queen and throw some race gas in and crank it up past 15psi.
I got my used turbotech kit for $3k, i think my total in mods so far with my recent 12 bolt purchase is around $12k for my engine, fuel, tuneing, turbokit, drivetrain. thats a budget build buying used parts and looking for good deals.
id like to get 600rwhp on pump, not sure if ill make it (least on the stang dyno), i guess i could just get dynoed on a regualar dynometer.