building a turbo header
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From: Cecil County, MD
building a turbo header Just wondering if you guys could give me some sugestions on building a log style turbo header. I'm thinking of 304 stainless using 1 3/4" runners and a 3" log going up to the turbo. Or should I go with a 2.5" log to keep the velocity up?
Would that be ok or should I go with mild steel?
Also, would it be ok to use a factory mild steel flange with the stainless runners? I know you have to use a certain welding rod.
I'll be running a T-76 with a Q trim turbine/.96ar
It's in a 64 Chevy II so I don't have much clearance issues.
Any suggestions would be helpfull,
Frank
Would that be ok or should I go with mild steel?
Also, would it be ok to use a factory mild steel flange with the stainless runners? I know you have to use a certain welding rod.
I'll be running a T-76 with a Q trim turbine/.96ar
It's in a 64 Chevy II so I don't have much clearance issues.
Any suggestions would be helpfull,
Frank
First, how much power are you looking for?
Second, are you gonna feed the log with the other side of the motor, or feed it into the turbo (the "right" way to do it)
If you're gonna spend the money on stainless, get the flanges too. You can get them pretty cheap from Stainless Works for 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 primaries.
You could also think about the header setup, with a y-pipe to feed the turbo.
Second, are you gonna feed the log with the other side of the motor, or feed it into the turbo (the "right" way to do it)
If you're gonna spend the money on stainless, get the flanges too. You can get them pretty cheap from Stainless Works for 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 primaries.
You could also think about the header setup, with a y-pipe to feed the turbo.
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From: Cecil County, MD
I was looking to get the car in the 9s so I think 600rwhp should do the trick. I was planning on having the other side of the motor feed the backside of the log then the turbo be on the front side. But if that's not the ideal way, i'm open for suggestions.
I was considering getting 2 shorties and making a y pipe for the turbo, but I was thinking that the setup would loose to much heat and increase lag. Am I thinking right or would the more even flow of the headers and y make up for that?
The other thing is that the log is just sooo easy to build.
Thanks
Frank
here's a pic of the engine bay (kinda crappy pic though)
I was considering getting 2 shorties and making a y pipe for the turbo, but I was thinking that the setup would loose to much heat and increase lag. Am I thinking right or would the more even flow of the headers and y make up for that?
The other thing is that the log is just sooo easy to build.
Thanks
Frank
here's a pic of the engine bay (kinda crappy pic though)
Headers Frank,
I am in the same situation. I am building a 62' Nova Pro-Touring car that is going to be powered by a twin turbo LS1. Thanks to Harlan I know EXACTLY how I want them to look! Somebody linked me to his site where he has some great shots of his custom headers. I am debating over the use of 321 SS vs. 304 SS. The 321 will be much better overall for heat. Before deciding to go this route I tried flipping a C5 shorty header upside down to see how it would look. More work then it was worth. I wish I had another source for the SS tubing other than Burns Stainless steel.
I am in the same situation. I am building a 62' Nova Pro-Touring car that is going to be powered by a twin turbo LS1. Thanks to Harlan I know EXACTLY how I want them to look! Somebody linked me to his site where he has some great shots of his custom headers. I am debating over the use of 321 SS vs. 304 SS. The 321 will be much better overall for heat. Before deciding to go this route I tried flipping a C5 shorty header upside down to see how it would look. More work then it was worth. I wish I had another source for the SS tubing other than Burns Stainless steel.
http://www.stainlessworks.net/
and
http://www.woolfaircraft.com/
Burns has 321 in stock all the time though. I do have a "few" bends left over if you're still looking.
and
http://www.woolfaircraft.com/
Burns has 321 in stock all the time though. I do have a "few" bends left over if you're still looking.
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321 is the only way to go, 304 will crack and need reapir.
Do it right the first time, don't learn the hard way and ahve to buy materials twice and fab the headers twice.
The 321 is more expensive, but well worth it in the long run.
Also don't use a stainless flange, it expands to much and can shear your header bolts right off. Call Kooks, tell them your use and order the flange from them.
Do it right the first time, don't learn the hard way and ahve to buy materials twice and fab the headers twice.
The 321 is more expensive, but well worth it in the long run.
Also don't use a stainless flange, it expands to much and can shear your header bolts right off. Call Kooks, tell them your use and order the flange from them.
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From: Toronto, Canada
What do you guys think about using mild steel, jethot coated for the exhaust tubing? I would think that would be far less prone to cracking and breaking, would be easier to fabricate and cost effective. I know it wouldn't be as pretty but I'm more concerned with funtion than beauty 
Steel won't hold up to the extreme temps a turbo setup is subjected to. Ask any competent turbo header manufacturer and they will tell you 321 is th only way ot go unless you like taking your car apart frequently to reweld the cracks to get rid of those pesky exhaust leaks.
321 is the stainless of choice for dealing with the heat. Many people will use 304 for the header flanges and leave the primaries and merge collectors in 321. I was also told to make the holes in the manifold flanges "oversized" to deal with expansion as well as "slotting" the flange between ports.
I figure by the time I am done it will be a bit under $ 2K. I agree on doing it once! Too much labor involved. "Put it in the budget"!
I figure by the time I am done it will be a bit under $ 2K. I agree on doing it once! Too much labor involved. "Put it in the budget"!
