fudge.. car ingesting coolent
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From: Broken Arrow, OK
fudge.. car ingesting coolent car has been down a couple weeks for another trans. Got everything back together and put the new program in. Started it up and during cranking it i felt it bump a little but then kick over. It came right up on idle but under the turbo flange was water that that had been blown out thru the slight leak there. The car idles good and revs great. However, when I rev it the white steam pours out on decel and it is not oil - smells like anti-freeze.
The engine is newely built 370 iron block, all forged, and has cometic head gaskets. It has head studs and I have not double checked the torque yet. one problem after another. I would hate to think there is a crack somewhere.
The engine is newely built 370 iron block, all forged, and has cometic head gaskets. It has head studs and I have not double checked the torque yet. one problem after another. I would hate to think there is a crack somewhere.
How new is the motor? I guess you havn't done a re-torque on the head gaskets by your post. When my gaskets leaked, it usually just pressurized the coolant system, and never blew out white smoke. Hopefully it's just a re-torque or gasket change?
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From: Broken Arrow, OK
less then 10 miles, but many restarts.
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Cool. I will do a re-torque. The block was dry when it went together on the stand.
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From: Broken Arrow, OK
Same thing happend to me. My ls1 had just a few mins of run time and started blowing white smoke under throttle and it was coolant. I parked it and just went to mess with it after a year...come to find out 4 of my cylinders had water sitting in the for a year and the heads have massive rust in them. The motor was just rebuilt with 6.0 heads and a ls6 cam.
True,pull the heads and get the water out of the cylinder if it is going to sit for awhile.You don't want to ruin the cylinder walls. Also, for safety sake, I would remove the spark plugs and turn the motor over a few times to get as much water out of the cylinders as possible as well after you do a re-torque.
Don't want to bend anything.
Don't want to bend anything.
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True,pull the heads and get the water out of the cylinder if it is going to sit for awhile.You don't want to ruin the cylinder walls. Also, for safety sake, I would remove the spark plugs and turn the motor over a few times to get as much water out of the cylinders as possible as well after you do a re-torque.
Don't want to bend anything.
Don't want to bend anything.
Thanks Mike. I am going to start on it this week. The car was doing well after the fuel issue was worked, so well I needed a new trans.
I am not going to let it set. Luckly the turbo headers will come out the top very easy. I am going to pop a valve cover and test one of the nuts. If I remember correctly the ARP studs are supposed to be torqued to 85 for the large ones and 25 ea for the small ones. I will drop by my fathers house and pick up my Snap-On Torque Wrench. I know it is better then 3% accurate if I remember right.
I am not going to let it set. Luckly the turbo headers will come out the top very easy. I am going to pop a valve cover and test one of the nuts. If I remember correctly the ARP studs are supposed to be torqued to 85 for the large ones and 25 ea for the small ones. I will drop by my fathers house and pick up my Snap-On Torque Wrench. I know it is better then 3% accurate if I remember right.
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update A friend took my torque wrench and has not brought it back. My dad has my snapon one and when I called for it I asked him if he had backed it off each time. NO! he has had it at 80lb for the last two years. So I am going to buy a new one with a fresh calibration.
Tonight I took off the dr turbo header and valve cover. I removed the pplugs and all looked ok. The runners had some condensation running thru them, but did not look like very much. I did not get the pass side off yet. When I cranked the car with the dr side plugs out no coolent came out. I will pull the pass side tomorrow and then the intake.
P.S. I must add that there are no leaks visible at all. I find it hard to believe that a gasket that is so good at sealing combustion can have a leak there. I have had some cometics in the past that have seeped on the floor of the garage with no other issues. As a matter of fact this is the first set I have had that has not leaked. I hope there is not a crack....
not even 10 miles.
Tonight I took off the dr turbo header and valve cover. I removed the pplugs and all looked ok. The runners had some condensation running thru them, but did not look like very much. I did not get the pass side off yet. When I cranked the car with the dr side plugs out no coolent came out. I will pull the pass side tomorrow and then the intake.
P.S. I must add that there are no leaks visible at all. I find it hard to believe that a gasket that is so good at sealing combustion can have a leak there. I have had some cometics in the past that have seeped on the floor of the garage with no other issues. As a matter of fact this is the first set I have had that has not leaked. I hope there is not a crack....
not even 10 miles. When my gaskets leaked , they never showed evidence outside the block, except for the overflow in the catch can. Honestly I have never heard of other peoples setups leaking water into the motor, and blowing smoke UNLESS it was a crack? Lets hope for the best.
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From: Broken Arrow, OK
I forgot to mention that my oil perfectly clean with no water in it at all. I guess this is good?