OreoLt1

iTrader: (11)

These are a little bit older pics. Since these pics I have gone back and repainted the impact bar and re welded the pass. side U shaped pipe. And added black corner lights and headlights with HID headlights and fog lights.

2nd Gen Fl 'bird

iTrader: (13)

IMHO I feel people get into problems with rear mounts when they try to use a silicone coupling at every last joint in the system. Can't do that and expect reliabilty. Think about it, 10 couplings=20 clamps(or 20 potential leak points)I'm not saying you can't seal up the system that way, just those who "slap" the system on and blow joints or can't build boost call it a POS right away. Front mount guys use VERY few couplings, weld every joint possible. FM guys don't run the pvc, ditch that. Half *** wire anything and see what happens. Properly wired scavage pumps run for thousands of miles although some brands are to be desired. And don't argue about lt headers and how much you have in them. Stock manifiolds work better period. Like said before, search "Zombie" on here, it's a wealth of info.

383mazda

iTrader: (2)

You really don't need the PCV system, it's just to make the hippies in california happy (and by doing so take the fun out of most things for the rest of us)...

And I think STS changed their pumps to "full speed" all the time. Just remember that the pump goes AFTER the turbo!

It'll be plenty to hit your needs. Friend of mine had their kit on his '02 SS... bone stock other than the kit and ran 109mph at 4300ft elevation with 5psi! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeIO9N8ut5Y
(the following week he ran with 9psi and meth and hit 116mph! that's haulling for up here!)

toddcod

Do you have to cut the center out, or does it pop out? If you have to cut it. You did a great job! The car looks great.

I'll try to look at it the nose on lunch. I'm at work. LOL.

Thanks, I was getting a little worried for a bit since the dough is already spent. LOL.

I may not be certified. But I grew up helping paint and restore show cars. At 4yrs old, I could grab the sockets and wrenches my dad wanted. I had no Ideal what 9/16 ment. But I could grab it. LOL

My dad made me start sanding at 5 yrs old. At 7 I could use the DA sander about as good as anyone. LOL

The setup looked like a simple install. But there is always things to learn.

And if I can avoid mistakes, by listening to those who have already been there. I'm all game.

OreoLt1

iTrader: (11)

The stock black grille pops out but underneath that is part of the front bumper that I had to cut out. I left the mounting tabs there for now in case I decided to go with another grille of some sorts.

I have a lot more pics if you interested.

Turbo 6.0

The intercooler mounts on the front side of the support. You do have to remove the foam bumper support though.

OreoLt1

iTrader: (11)

A lot of people cut the center section out of the front impact bar and mount it in the middle of that. There are a few that have mounted the cooler on the front of the bar but Im not sure on the clearance from the cooler to the bumper. I cut the impact foam out and used the sides to cover the front of the frame rails.

In a front end accident your pretty much screwed anyways with a FMIC but the cooler can be replaced a lot easier than frame rail repair. At least with the foam on the rail ends it provides more protection that if they were not there.

toddcod

If you don't mind, that would be great. Thanks again.

OreoLt1

iTrader: (11)

You have an e-mail? It's easier to send the pics through that than post on here.

toddcod

Turbo! on it's WAY! I'm counting down the days!

The local guys say they can tune the car with the factory computer and their software. Is this the way I should go?

It sounds the best for my $$$$.

It would be nice if my girlfriends dad's shop was finished. All he needs is wiring. It has a lift and all. He has everything, he just hasn't finished it. I may do it for him.

I'm always on the floor of the my storage building with jack stands. It would be nice to not worry about the car falling.

vipvegas

iTrader: (13)

Sts kit upgraded here! Happy camper as long as you are aware of the kits issues and fix the few small things needed to keep it reliable. Im love my rearmount, its also different no heat issues underhood and no serious modifications.

toddcod

What is recomended to fix the problems?
I'd like to get it right the first time.

Thanks!

vipvegas

iTrader: (13)

Get yourself a catchcan and get rid of the PCV system of STS. Monitor and watch the oil pump. Make sure the safety buzzer works. Get rid of the inline gold resistor and run pump on high at all times. Pressure test the piping to make sure there are no leaks. And ditch the oil return thru cap go to pan or an empty port on the valve cover. Just a few give me sometime I could think of some more.

JAX04

iTrader: (17)

dont forget the cool *** sound the sts cars

OneBadTA

I dont meant to thread jack but since this is all about STS kits, ive been reading alot on rear mounts today and according to Zombies Thread he made, keeping the exhaust temps high creates alot of the quick spool for a rear mount or any turbo for that matter. But according to STS, they say since the exhaust temps are alot cooler, you should run a small A/R which will create the velocity needed to spool up like the turbo would if it had a larger A/R on a conventional setup. Heres there exact quotes,

"Don't turbos have to be really hot to work properly?
Putting a torch to your turbo and getting it hot doesn't produce boost. What produces boost is airflow across the turbine which causes the turbine to spin. If turbochargers required very high temperatures to produce boost, Diesel trucks and Methanol Race cars wouldn't be able to run turbos. However, each of these "Low Exhaust Temperature" vehicles work very well with turbochargers when, like any turbo application, the turbocharger is sized correctly.
In a conventional, exhaust manifold mounted turbocharger system, the extra heat causes the air molecules to separate and the gas becomes "thinner" because of the extra space between the molecules. This extra space increases the volume of air but doesn't increase the mass of the air. Because the volume is higher, the velocity of the gas has to be higher to get it out in the same amount of time.

By mounting the turbo further downstream, the gasses do lose heat energy and velocity, however, there is just as much mass (the amount of air) coming out of the tailpipe as there is coming out of the heads. So you are driving the turbine with a "denser" gas charge. The same number of molecules per second are striking the turbine and flowing across the turbine at 1200F as there is at 1700F.

Front mounted turbos typically run an A/R ratio turbine housing about 2 sizes larger because the velocity is already in the gasses and the volume is so big that the turbine housing must be larger to not cause a major restriction in the exhaust system which would cause more backpressure. With the remote mounted turbo, the gasses have condensed and the volume is less, so a smaller A/R ratio turbine housing can be used which increases the velocity of the gasses while not causing any extra backpressure because the gas volume is smaller and denser.

Sizing is everything with turbos. There is more to sizing a turbo for an application than cubic inches, Volumetric Efficiency, and RPM ranges. A turbo must also be sized for the exhaust temperatures. A turbine housing sized for 1700F gasses would have lag if the gasses were 1200F. This is why turbo cars have lag when they are cold and not warmed up yet. Both systems work well if sized correctly."

I understand what both Zombie and STS are saying but which is right? Are there two ways to skin a cat in this situation?

spaz1

iTrader: (9)

I just tapped a new hole in the valvecover, I'd also recommend an intercooler. I installed a muffler too.I tapped the power wire for the oil return pump into my fuel pump power wire... cleans up some of the wiring and gets rid of the extra relay up front.

The Fugitive

iTrader: (6)

what is being done is combining the two. Zombie is raising his exhaust temps so it doesn't fall as much as a normal STS would. That enables him to run a slightly larger a/r. He is using the concept of keeping the gas hot (as front mounts make the most of this) and using the correctly sized exhaust housing. It's just like they say one turbo won't do the job for every application that's why they make the different size turbo housings for each turbo. But I am not sure I am not a turbo builder or expert

toddcod

1. So setup a catch can.

2. Wire into fuel pump?

3. Anyone have pictures of where to drill the valve cover for the oil return?

toddcod

I have a stock motor & auto, 67-1 turbo & 60Lbs injectors, EBC, WI, and IC.

I'm just daily with some strip on street tires.

Should I just run 7 1/2 psi?

OUTLAWZ RACING

iTrader: (9)

5-8 psi and u shoud be fine. are u intercooled also?