frcefed98

iTrader: (16)

Yep I have the car that the "bugs" are being worked out on
I hope to have the updated set friday or monday.
J

BIGBOS

Mine should be here soon hopefully......

AzzHauler

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the pics! Looks good. I had gotten the bigger filter Black LS1 TA has/had, but couldn't get it to fit. I like your tube though. It'd be real nice to be able to move the filter to a less dirt-prone location, but I don't think that is an option.

BIGBOS

Yea, I still didn't get my bigger one in there either, the stock one is too damn restrictive....

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

Thanks Jer. The kit sounds like it is coming along..... it sucks with no Net at home... in the process of moving into my new place..... I am going to order my Cog pulleys here soon also. Pm me some info if you have it on the the diameters of the the crank pulley and the blower pulley in inches when you get them. 73 and 31 teeth huh. I would like to calculate what rpm's we will be spinning the D1-SC to..... Didnt you say you put the 3.2" pulley on with your MMS crank pulley??? and you shift at 7000rpm's..... man that spinning that blwer to 68,000 rpm....... and 62,000 is max..... let me know how you do at the track on Sun also.
Later
Kyle

frcefed98

iTrader: (16)

No track for me, still working with the cog set up I got the new ones in today. I enlongated the tensioner slot until the tensioner pulley physically hit the GM Idler that is located just above ATI's tensioner, but the s/c still won't line up with the s/c mounting bolts/ bracket. It is just off about an 1/8 of an inch. If I had a smaller tensioner pulley now, MAYBE it would work. Or Clints tooth count of 72T and 29 or 30T, I know it would fit cause his does. Well time to go bash my head in for awhile more.
J

frcefed98

iTrader: (16)

Oh yeah, the diameters are @3.0 for the s/c cog and 7.0 for the crank cog.

1dirtyZ

iTrader: (1)

why not use a tensioner pulley off the 8 rib setup? or maybe one from ATI?

i'm sure i saw a larger diameter pulley somewhere, i think it's off a vette or something, i'll look around an tell you if i find anything.

frcefed98

iTrader: (16)

The ASP tensioner is the same diameter as the ATI tensioner just wider for the cog set up, now I could get a smaller GM idler if I could find one and have more room but then I would havet to find the right length accessory belt too. If the tenisoner pulley was smaller diameter wise, I "pretty" sure it would all line up with this tooth count. Damn COG belts for not coming in all lengths like ribbed belts.

frcefed98

iTrader: (16)

Ran a search on idlers and up came this site for Z's and it had a cool pic. I am going to do my tensioner like this, run the belt on top of it just like the ATI kit for the Nissan Z, that should work.....it just might.....




I would think that it would be noisy, but it's still tensioning the belt
Whaddaya guys think? I am going to throw a burrito down my gullet and get to work on this.
Jeremy

PS WHY THE FU@K Does ATI make a cog kit for a Nissan Z?????

PNYKILR

That's a good question Jeremy. Brand new car comes out and bam, Cog Setup. I would think that would be a option from every Manufacture when ordering a kit????

Neal

frcefed98

iTrader: (16)

Well whadya know it works
http://home.comcast.net/~gbazan/cog4.mov
2.5 megs

I ran out of light and its damn cold outside, but I did take it for a spin and all seems good. I'll double check belt tension tomorrow, looks good now about an inch of play. I took her to the dyno shop but the owner was kinda busy to check it for me, but my buddy Anthony Dickson gave it a once over and said the belt felt good with the right amount of slack. I ran the tensioner under the belt instead of the tensioner above it. I really tightened the tensioner screw down(one on the side of the bracket) and marked where it sits with a sharpie to see if the tensioner moves down any. I'll do more boost checks when the PCM has a few more miles, this is the first run out with the new tune. I did see 10psi right away though

Neal, No **** huh, woulda thought HIGH HP cars would get cog options from ATI from the get go, especially when ATI know's how bad the belt slips on the LS1 F-body HEY ATI Get your heads out of your a$$e$. FU@King Low HP Nissan gets a cog

J

maddboost

iTrader: (11)

frcefed98 have you conveyed your feelings to ATI on this subject? They honestly may not know the problem exists or that they have a solution on another one of their kits.

frcefed98

iTrader: (16)

Whats up buddy, I am POSITIVE ATI knows about the extreme belt slip this kit has, or they wouldn't be struggling with their all new 8 rib set up for the LS1 kit.
Jeremy

1dirtyZ

iTrader: (1)

tha't the idler / tensioner pulley i has thinking of. would it fit on an fbody?

1dirtyZ

iTrader: (1)

what did you do to fix the problem ?? ( other than elongate the hole?)

BIGBOS

Sounds awesome, glad to see that you got it all worked out, let me know when you got full WOT with it..........I hope mine come in the mail soon so I can start toying around............

I liked the video........is that the noise of the cog pulleys I can hear over the supercharger, seems like its belt noise..........

Black LS1 T/A

I have to tell you, Chris... that steel bracket is the bomb.

I climbed under my car to look at the belt and check things after my trip to West Virgina (780 mile round trip, plus mileage that week while working there), and after repeated WOT's, some high speed runs, etc, (even with the smaller 3.20 SC pulley and MMS crank pulley) I see no appreciable wear on the belt. And it's not as tight as I have had to keep it before, either. But, I'm still getting 13 to 14 PSI peak. With my old bracket (the one on the right), I would have broken several belts by now.



The original bracket was fine up to 10 PSI on my stock engine. But, I began to have these problems at even that boost level with the 422. There is just so much more torque down low, and even on the big end, intermittent contact between the idler and bracket could be potentially devastating. The soft depressions that occur from tightening and moving the idler bolt exacerabates the problem, because the idler is pulled in even closer AND they are no longer precisely perpendicular to each other.

I don't see how I could live without it at the higher boost levels. If anyone is seeing unexplainable belt slip and dips, I STRONGLY recommend you check the surface of the bracket area where the idler pulley might meet the bracket and gouge it... but worse, yet, suspend rotation and chew or snap your belt!

frcefed98

iTrader: (16)

Dirty, I ran the tensioner under the belt instead of on top of it. That was it and it worked. Just like they have the nissan set up above. I will be welding the adjusting screw to the pad on the tensioner so when I back the screw out, it will pull the tensioner up which will put more tension on the belt. I have it about as good as I could get it by pusing it upwards with my hand while tightening the side screw down with the other hand. I will be getting intouch with lee before I do any welding maybe he can make a smaller tensioner or has an idea on how to fix it the right way.

Lee did great work on the new cogs, the crank cog came with the 5/16 dowels(I didn't have to ask this time) installed. And the s/c cog has a longer neck now so the spacer(s) aren't need to space it upwards on the s/c. Here are two pics of it.



I am glad I got it "finished" last night, as you can see in the video the sky is quite cloudy and it snowed all night. The car now has snow all over it and the driveway is a sheet of ice.

This is far from over, I still have to talk to lee and tell him how it went. Like I said maybe he has a better idea on how to work the tensioner issue.

Bos, the noise is the belt whine, sounds like a gear drive Its awesome. You will like it, its very intimidating. You can barely hear the s/c whine now.
J

BIGBOS

Good to hear, can you get any pics of the setup on the car currently, I can't wait to get these things.....