Cheapest way to 1,000 RWHP...........
12-29-2009, 10:40 AM
#61
Another thing, A friend of mine local(cablebandit) has a 402 with a 88mm turbo and is making over 900rwhp with his 6 ltr block and ETP head setup without pushing water. So your goal is not unrealistic, you just need to make sure everything is done correctly. Alot will have to due with your setup on the tune once it is all done to make it live!
12-29-2009, 10:47 AM
#62
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This might not meet your budget but will easily cover your rwhp requirements. Probably won't get very good gas mileage either but getting 2100 flywheel hp with no power adders is still pretty cool.
http://www.sonnysracingengines.com/e...-racing-engine
http://www.sonnysracingengines.com/e...-racing-engine
12-29-2009, 10:51 AM
#63
Well getting to 800rwhp is not that bad if you follow the formula below.You could possibly squeak 1000rwhp out of it but reliability might not be the best especially if you run it at max all the time. The beauty of FI turbo builds is you can dial down the boost.
800rwhp is a lot on the street and will pretty much require running drag tires like et street radials 24/7. There are tricks to let you get traction..ramping the boost with various boost controllers by rpm, time or gear. Possibly getting expensive add on variable traction control.
So the cheap way to 800rwhp.
6.0 iron block..stock crank. forged pistons and rods of course, arp main studs, head studs. 317 heads are ok ,better heads like afr if budget permits .Thicker heads less chance of lifting heads even in 4 bolt configuration.You can run stock cam or z06 cams from various years. Good valve springs.
Can run ls6 intake.Stock tb, stock ignition.
Fuel system ,system like lonnies twin pumps with 8 an feed,6 an return adjustable fuel reg and bigger rails..80 high impedence or 96 or 120 low impedence.
Trans built turbo 400 is about cheapest with good stall like yank stall made for turbo use.
Built 4l80 is more pricey option if you want the overdrive.
Rear end any of them 12 bolt, 9 inch ,dana.Locker or spool are strongest but wavetrac might be good option not offered for dana 60 yet.
Suspension mods to hook up the power..tires are the most important one..as said something like et street radials will be mandatory. Then likely want to have things like lower control arms, adjustable torque arm,possibly adjustable shocks,if more drag oriented possibly drag rear sway bar and more drag type springs.
Brake upgrades would be good idea as well. Stock ls1 brakes are not that great at 800rwhp and up.
Of course very strong driveshaft.
Stock computer can do 800 ,1000rwhp. hptuners works good. If you have extra money then sure you can go standalone to things like big stuff 3.
For turbo yet big single setups some keep air. You could go for used aps kit just get upgraded turbos like LG upgrades. It keeps the air.
You don't need to run premium all the time. Simply run meth injection. e85 is nice if you have that option. Course it requires even more fuel support ,bigger injectors ,etc.
For 1000rwhp you are at borderline for intank twin pump setups like lonnies. You may want custom tank and big single pump , 10 an feed ,8 return..
So that is pretty much your recipe list.
800rwhp can be done pretty cheap. You can add spray on top to get to 1000rwhp also if you want to go smaller more streetable turbo or be able to spool up bigger turbo faster.
And remember there are lots of little things that you also need for FI build. A good wideband , good gauges, possibly an electronic boost controller , you should buy quality non knock off parts like brand name wastegates,blow offs, quailty turbo or turbos.
Good intercooler. Good piping with beading ,good silicone couplers and t bolt clamps.
If your current 4l80 isn't a fully built up 4l80 then doubt you will get it even to 800rwhp.
Personally my car is set up to have around 800rwhp with maybe 1000rwhp occasionally mostly for dyno bragging rights.I am daily driving it around at figure about 600rwhp and that seems pretty good to me right now. I don't run et street radials 24/7 and am experimenting with ramping boost and as said maybe racelogic variable traction control.
I kept the car very streetable with 3.54 gears, the 4l80 swap, pretty mild cam, 9.5 compression.
It was still not a cheap build with figure about 40k into it past the price of the car.
But as said you could cut corners with engine, trans and maybe turbo kit ,singles are cheaper than twins.And I went pretty much all out with expensive boost controller, guages,etc.
Oh would add that if did want to run 1000rwhp all the time would be running lsx block with 6 bolt heads and of course fully forged top quality crank,rods,pistons.May upgrade engine at some point in future but the built 408 is no slouch either.
800rwhp is a lot on the street and will pretty much require running drag tires like et street radials 24/7. There are tricks to let you get traction..ramping the boost with various boost controllers by rpm, time or gear. Possibly getting expensive add on variable traction control.
So the cheap way to 800rwhp.
6.0 iron block..stock crank. forged pistons and rods of course, arp main studs, head studs. 317 heads are ok ,better heads like afr if budget permits .Thicker heads less chance of lifting heads even in 4 bolt configuration.You can run stock cam or z06 cams from various years. Good valve springs.
Can run ls6 intake.Stock tb, stock ignition.
Fuel system ,system like lonnies twin pumps with 8 an feed,6 an return adjustable fuel reg and bigger rails..80 high impedence or 96 or 120 low impedence.
Trans built turbo 400 is about cheapest with good stall like yank stall made for turbo use.
Built 4l80 is more pricey option if you want the overdrive.
Rear end any of them 12 bolt, 9 inch ,dana.Locker or spool are strongest but wavetrac might be good option not offered for dana 60 yet.
Suspension mods to hook up the power..tires are the most important one..as said something like et street radials will be mandatory. Then likely want to have things like lower control arms, adjustable torque arm,possibly adjustable shocks,if more drag oriented possibly drag rear sway bar and more drag type springs.
Brake upgrades would be good idea as well. Stock ls1 brakes are not that great at 800rwhp and up.
Of course very strong driveshaft.
Stock computer can do 800 ,1000rwhp. hptuners works good. If you have extra money then sure you can go standalone to things like big stuff 3.
For turbo yet big single setups some keep air. You could go for used aps kit just get upgraded turbos like LG upgrades. It keeps the air.
You don't need to run premium all the time. Simply run meth injection. e85 is nice if you have that option. Course it requires even more fuel support ,bigger injectors ,etc.
For 1000rwhp you are at borderline for intank twin pump setups like lonnies. You may want custom tank and big single pump , 10 an feed ,8 return..
So that is pretty much your recipe list.
800rwhp can be done pretty cheap. You can add spray on top to get to 1000rwhp also if you want to go smaller more streetable turbo or be able to spool up bigger turbo faster.
And remember there are lots of little things that you also need for FI build. A good wideband , good gauges, possibly an electronic boost controller , you should buy quality non knock off parts like brand name wastegates,blow offs, quailty turbo or turbos.
Good intercooler. Good piping with beading ,good silicone couplers and t bolt clamps.
If your current 4l80 isn't a fully built up 4l80 then doubt you will get it even to 800rwhp.
Personally my car is set up to have around 800rwhp with maybe 1000rwhp occasionally mostly for dyno bragging rights.I am daily driving it around at figure about 600rwhp and that seems pretty good to me right now. I don't run et street radials 24/7 and am experimenting with ramping boost and as said maybe racelogic variable traction control.
I kept the car very streetable with 3.54 gears, the 4l80 swap, pretty mild cam, 9.5 compression.
It was still not a cheap build with figure about 40k into it past the price of the car.
But as said you could cut corners with engine, trans and maybe turbo kit ,singles are cheaper than twins.And I went pretty much all out with expensive boost controller, guages,etc.
Oh would add that if did want to run 1000rwhp all the time would be running lsx block with 6 bolt heads and of course fully forged top quality crank,rods,pistons.May upgrade engine at some point in future but the built 408 is no slouch either.
12-29-2009, 11:01 AM
#64
1000rwhp is a street car with A/C that is mainly going to be street driven is one thing.
1000rwhp in a race car that needs to go rounds is another thing completley.
Shawn @ VA Speed builds IMO some of the nicest and most reliable engines out there. He is exactly right is saying that the engine needs to be built right to hold together.
Now comes the time to make decisions. Are you building a competative class car, or are you building a nasty ***** out street car? Saying you drive a 1000rwhp street car is one thing. Racing it for a season is another.
There are dozens of Iron block 370ci & 408ci 4 bolt head setups that are making over 1000rwhp, and have been doing so for a long time. It all boils down to how the car is gonna be used.
1000rwhp in a race car that needs to go rounds is another thing completley.
Shawn @ VA Speed builds IMO some of the nicest and most reliable engines out there. He is exactly right is saying that the engine needs to be built right to hold together.
Now comes the time to make decisions. Are you building a competative class car, or are you building a nasty ***** out street car? Saying you drive a 1000rwhp street car is one thing. Racing it for a season is another.
There are dozens of Iron block 370ci & 408ci 4 bolt head setups that are making over 1000rwhp, and have been doing so for a long time. It all boils down to how the car is gonna be used.
12-29-2009, 11:03 AM
#65
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From my experience, my first TT setruck manifold setup, I was driving around on a little over 900rwhp and this was with a $4500.00 6ltr. shortblock with stock crank and H-beam rod's,forged pistons. This motor would still be alive today if I had got it freshened up. Instead, the motor lasted a little over 2 year's,150dyno pull's, mostly the last 100 pull's over 1000hp. So yes it can be done.BUT I did change out head gasket's ALOT, when I was racing alot with the Auto. The 6speed wasn't nearly as hard on the head Gasket's. So with that said here is breakdown, some you can get cheaper and some a little more expensive?
Shortblock-$5000.00-includes pinned main caps
Head's- $1800-$2000.00-used AFR you can use stock rocker arms.
LS6 intake-$300.00
TB-$150.00 or so
Fuel system including rail's,injectors,fuel pumps $1500.00-2000.00
Converter-$900.00-1000.00-used
Gauges-$300.00
BS3- $2000.00-$2500.00 if you cannot tune the setup, you need to pat a tuner or have a friend that you trust tune it.
Turbo Kit-Josh is the only way to go. He can keep A/C with the truck manifold setup for you.$5-8000.00?? Not sure on his price's.
New Exhaust for turbo setup-$500.00
Roughly $22,000.00+ all the little extra stuff. So figure $23-$24,000.00 by the time you are done AND DOING THE LABOR WORK YOURSELF!!!. I am sure I may have left a few things out???
Keep in mind on the shortblock. You WILL lift the head's and push water if you do not use larger head studs and o-ring the block/heads. That cost is extra, depends on who you get to do the engine work. If you use your LSX Block you can get, then use a set of Trick Flow 6 bolt heads and you will not have that issue.
Shortblock-$5000.00-includes pinned main caps
Head's- $1800-$2000.00-used AFR you can use stock rocker arms.
LS6 intake-$300.00
TB-$150.00 or so
Fuel system including rail's,injectors,fuel pumps $1500.00-2000.00
Converter-$900.00-1000.00-used
Gauges-$300.00
BS3- $2000.00-$2500.00 if you cannot tune the setup, you need to pat a tuner or have a friend that you trust tune it.
Turbo Kit-Josh is the only way to go. He can keep A/C with the truck manifold setup for you.$5-8000.00?? Not sure on his price's.
New Exhaust for turbo setup-$500.00
Roughly $22,000.00+ all the little extra stuff. So figure $23-$24,000.00 by the time you are done AND DOING THE LABOR WORK YOURSELF!!!. I am sure I may have left a few things out???
Keep in mind on the shortblock. You WILL lift the head's and push water if you do not use larger head studs and o-ring the block/heads. That cost is extra, depends on who you get to do the engine work. If you use your LSX Block you can get, then use a set of Trick Flow 6 bolt heads and you will not have that issue.
I just don't see why if I were to build a nice short-block, turbo kit and fuel system for 800 RWHP......what changes when wanting 1,000 RWHP. If a stout iron block is the set-up, isn't it just a turbo upgrade for more boost and a new tune?
What changes the cash aspect when going from 800 RWHP to 1,000 RWHP with a single turbo set-up.
12-29-2009, 11:05 AM
#66
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This might not meet your budget but will easily cover your rwhp requirements. Probably won't get very good gas mileage either but getting 2100 flywheel hp with no power adders is still pretty cool.
http://www.sonnysracingengines.com/e...-racing-engine
http://www.sonnysracingengines.com/e...-racing-engine
12-29-2009, 11:07 AM
#67
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1000rwhp is a street car with A/C that is mainly going to be street driven is one thing.
1000rwhp in a race car that needs to go rounds is another thing completley.
Shawn @ VA Speed builds IMO some of the nicest and most reliable engines out there. He is exactly right is saying that the engine needs to be built right to hold together.
Now comes the time to make decisions. Are you building a competative class car, or are you building a nasty ***** out street car? Saying you drive a 1000rwhp street car is one thing. Racing it for a season is another.
There are dozens of Iron block 370ci & 408ci 4 bolt head setups that are making over 1000rwhp, and have been doing so for a long time. It all boils down to how the car is gonna be used.
1000rwhp in a race car that needs to go rounds is another thing completley.
Shawn @ VA Speed builds IMO some of the nicest and most reliable engines out there. He is exactly right is saying that the engine needs to be built right to hold together.
Now comes the time to make decisions. Are you building a competative class car, or are you building a nasty ***** out street car? Saying you drive a 1000rwhp street car is one thing. Racing it for a season is another.
There are dozens of Iron block 370ci & 408ci 4 bolt head setups that are making over 1000rwhp, and have been doing so for a long time. It all boils down to how the car is gonna be used.
12-29-2009, 11:49 AM
#73
I'll throw my $.02 in here. Early this year I finished a turbo build for a customer and I can lay out a few numbers for you. The engine wasn't anything trick. 402 Iron 6.0 block, Eagle crank and rods, Diamond pistons(off memory?) Steel rings, L92 heads (I know these arent really the way to go) Stock L76 plastic intake. Total engine investment was right at $10k assembled. Engine management is stock PCM w/ 80lb high impedance injectors...and I think they even have 90# out now so I think stock PCM can get you there if needed. Turbo is Garrett 88mm, Tial gate and BOV. Without trying to be the excuse-o-man on the dyno numbers I will say it was 92* outside and numbers were 847rwhp @ 16psi through Th400 with a big stall and a spooled 12 bolt.
So the basic breakdown was:
Engine total approx $10k
Fuel system - dual 255 Walbro, aftermaket rails, injectors $800
Turbo, gate, BOV, intercooler, coupler $2000
PCM, wiring, 2 step and tuning $1400
The car made over 35 passes this year, all at only 10psi and saw 450 street miles at 10-12psi and has zero issues yet. Runs down the highway very well with 3.08 gears and has gone 9.36 @ 10psi
I would think if this setup was based off an LSx block with 6 bolt heads by anyone and turning the boost up to around 20psi it would be very close to around 1k at the wheels without getting too exotic. Always hard telling where it will end up with an auto/ stall behind it. Get yourself a 6 speed for the dyno session so you can post up your big RWHP numbers, then put your 4l80e in it
So the basic breakdown was:
Engine total approx $10k
Fuel system - dual 255 Walbro, aftermaket rails, injectors $800
Turbo, gate, BOV, intercooler, coupler $2000
PCM, wiring, 2 step and tuning $1400
The car made over 35 passes this year, all at only 10psi and saw 450 street miles at 10-12psi and has zero issues yet. Runs down the highway very well with 3.08 gears and has gone 9.36 @ 10psi
I would think if this setup was based off an LSx block with 6 bolt heads by anyone and turning the boost up to around 20psi it would be very close to around 1k at the wheels without getting too exotic. Always hard telling where it will end up with an auto/ stall behind it. Get yourself a 6 speed for the dyno session so you can post up your big RWHP numbers, then put your 4l80e in it
12-29-2009, 12:00 PM
#74
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I'll throw my $.02 in here. Early this year I finished a turbo build for a customer and I can lay out a few numbers for you. The engine wasn't anything trick. 402 Iron 6.0 block, Eagle crank and rods, Diamond pistons(off memory?) Steel rings, L92 heads (I know these arent really the way to go) Stock L76 plastic intake. Total engine investment was right at $10k assembled. Engine management is stock PCM w/ 80lb high impedance injectors...and I think they even have 90# out now so I think stock PCM can get you there if needed. Turbo is Garrett 88mm, Tial gate and BOV. Without trying to be the excuse-o-man on the dyno numbers I will say it was 92* outside and numbers were 847rwhp @ 16psi through Th400 with a big stall and a spooled 12 bolt.
So the basic breakdown was:
Engine total approx $10k
Fuel system - dual 255 Walbro, aftermaket rails, injectors $800
Turbo, gate, BOV, intercooler, coupler $2000
PCM, wiring, 2 step and tuning $1400
The car made over 35 passes this year, all at only 10psi and saw 450 street miles at 10-12psi and has zero issues yet. Runs down the highway very well with 3.08 gears and has gone 9.36 @ 10psi
I would think if this setup was based off an LSx block with 6 bolt heads by anyone and turning the boost up to around 20psi it would be very close to around 1k at the wheels without getting too exotic. Always hard telling where it will end up with an auto/ stall behind it. Get yourself a 6 speed for the dyno session so you can post up your big RWHP numbers, then put your 4l80e in it
So the basic breakdown was:
Engine total approx $10k
Fuel system - dual 255 Walbro, aftermaket rails, injectors $800
Turbo, gate, BOV, intercooler, coupler $2000
PCM, wiring, 2 step and tuning $1400
The car made over 35 passes this year, all at only 10psi and saw 450 street miles at 10-12psi and has zero issues yet. Runs down the highway very well with 3.08 gears and has gone 9.36 @ 10psi
I would think if this setup was based off an LSx block with 6 bolt heads by anyone and turning the boost up to around 20psi it would be very close to around 1k at the wheels without getting too exotic. Always hard telling where it will end up with an auto/ stall behind it. Get yourself a 6 speed for the dyno session so you can post up your big RWHP numbers, then put your 4l80e in it
I will use an iron LSX block and 6 bolt heads for sure if I do this. That seems like a must.
12-29-2009, 12:04 PM
#75
Thanks for the post man. Its looking like I'll have to up my budget or drop my power goals.
I just don't see why if I were to build a nice short-block, turbo kit and fuel system for 800 RWHP......what changes when wanting 1,000 RWHP. If a stout iron block is the set-up, isn't it just a turbo upgrade for more boost and a new tune?
What changes the cash aspect when going from 800 RWHP to 1,000 RWHP with a single turbo set-up.
I just don't see why if I were to build a nice short-block, turbo kit and fuel system for 800 RWHP......what changes when wanting 1,000 RWHP. If a stout iron block is the set-up, isn't it just a turbo upgrade for more boost and a new tune?
What changes the cash aspect when going from 800 RWHP to 1,000 RWHP with a single turbo set-up.
12-29-2009, 12:06 PM
#76
1000rwhp is a street car with A/C that is mainly going to be street driven is one thing.
1000rwhp in a race car that needs to go rounds is another thing completley.
Shawn @ VA Speed builds IMO some of the nicest and most reliable engines out there. He is exactly right is saying that the engine needs to be built right to hold together.
Now comes the time to make decisions. Are you building a competative class car, or are you building a nasty ***** out street car? Saying you drive a 1000rwhp street car is one thing. Racing it for a season is another.
There are dozens of Iron block 370ci & 408ci 4 bolt head setups that are making over 1000rwhp, and have been doing so for a long time. It all boils down to how the car is gonna be used.
1000rwhp in a race car that needs to go rounds is another thing completley.
Shawn @ VA Speed builds IMO some of the nicest and most reliable engines out there. He is exactly right is saying that the engine needs to be built right to hold together.
Now comes the time to make decisions. Are you building a competative class car, or are you building a nasty ***** out street car? Saying you drive a 1000rwhp street car is one thing. Racing it for a season is another.
There are dozens of Iron block 370ci & 408ci 4 bolt head setups that are making over 1000rwhp, and have been doing so for a long time. It all boils down to how the car is gonna be used.
This is a very true statement!!
12-29-2009, 12:12 PM
#77
Wow. Lot's of people drinking the kool-aide in here.
First of all. 1000 rwhp on an 18x12 tire is unhookable on the street. Period. I am making just under 800 rwhp or so on the street with a very well setup drag chassis and 325/50/15 mickey dr's and I can blow the tires off at anything under 60 mph. That means that I could boil a 18X12 at 80 mph without issue. 1000 rwhp is just unuseable on the street. So basically what you are going to end up with is a dyno queen.
Most of those supposedly 1000 rwhp cars down in Miami either don't make the power or can't get it down on the ground. What good is it if you can't put it down? I have seen many of those guys come up here and get spanked on the street or come up to the track and not be able to back up the 1000 rwhp claims. A 10 sec 1000 rwhp car is broken IMO even if it traps 160 MPH.
Last but not least, going with a 4" stroke, big cube setup is just going to add money to your build and be harder to package, specially if you want A/C. With 420+ cubes on a single, you should have a T6 flange. T6 turbo's typically have a very large footprint. You may want to look into twins if you are set on the big cubes and keeping the A/C.
First of all. 1000 rwhp on an 18x12 tire is unhookable on the street. Period. I am making just under 800 rwhp or so on the street with a very well setup drag chassis and 325/50/15 mickey dr's and I can blow the tires off at anything under 60 mph. That means that I could boil a 18X12 at 80 mph without issue. 1000 rwhp is just unuseable on the street. So basically what you are going to end up with is a dyno queen.
Most of those supposedly 1000 rwhp cars down in Miami either don't make the power or can't get it down on the ground. What good is it if you can't put it down? I have seen many of those guys come up here and get spanked on the street or come up to the track and not be able to back up the 1000 rwhp claims. A 10 sec 1000 rwhp car is broken IMO even if it traps 160 MPH.
Last but not least, going with a 4" stroke, big cube setup is just going to add money to your build and be harder to package, specially if you want A/C. With 420+ cubes on a single, you should have a T6 flange. T6 turbo's typically have a very large footprint. You may want to look into twins if you are set on the big cubes and keeping the A/C.
12-29-2009, 12:45 PM
#78
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When going from 800rwhp to 1000rwhp you will have alot more cylinder pressure and things can start to go bad real quick if the part's you buy are not up for the task as well. The best thing to do is to build it for overkill, this way you will not have any worry's until it is time for a freshen up. 800rwhp is relatively easy to make with a turbo car, especially with a 6 speed. As far as the cash aspect, usually you build for a certain goal in mind. You don't build for a certain goal, and then decide you want more power and hope for the best. If you buy something that is capable of 800rwhp then decide to turn up the boost you may destroy the motor, and have to start all over again.Usually you have to change out injectors, add a fuel pump, re-tune, then you start pushing water, and having to change out head gasket's, when going up in power like that. It is just best and actually more cost effective if you build for overkill, instead of swapping out parts to make it make safe more power, once you have completed the build the first time.
So with that in mind....if I had an 800 RWHP set-up built.....then later on is it just a turbo upgrade, new injectors and a new tune....to make more power?
12-29-2009, 12:48 PM
#79
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Wow. Lot's of people drinking the kool-aide in here.
First of all. 1000 rwhp on an 18x12 tire is unhookable on the street. Period. I am making just under 800 rwhp or so on the street with a very well setup drag chassis and 325/50/15 mickey dr's and I can blow the tires off at anything under 60 mph. That means that I could boil a 18X12 at 80 mph without issue. 1000 rwhp is just unuseable on the street. So basically what you are going to end up with is a dyno queen.
Most of those supposedly 1000 rwhp cars down in Miami either don't make the power or can't get it down on the ground. What good is it if you can't put it down? I have seen many of those guys come up here and get spanked on the street or come up to the track and not be able to back up the 1000 rwhp claims. A 10 sec 1000 rwhp car is broken IMO even if it traps 160 MPH.
Last but not least, going with a 4" stroke, big cube setup is just going to add money to your build and be harder to package, specially if you want A/C. With 420+ cubes on a single, you should have a T6 flange. T6 turbo's typically have a very large footprint. You may want to look into twins if you are set on the big cubes and keeping the A/C.
First of all. 1000 rwhp on an 18x12 tire is unhookable on the street. Period. I am making just under 800 rwhp or so on the street with a very well setup drag chassis and 325/50/15 mickey dr's and I can blow the tires off at anything under 60 mph. That means that I could boil a 18X12 at 80 mph without issue. 1000 rwhp is just unuseable on the street. So basically what you are going to end up with is a dyno queen.
Most of those supposedly 1000 rwhp cars down in Miami either don't make the power or can't get it down on the ground. What good is it if you can't put it down? I have seen many of those guys come up here and get spanked on the street or come up to the track and not be able to back up the 1000 rwhp claims. A 10 sec 1000 rwhp car is broken IMO even if it traps 160 MPH.
Last but not least, going with a 4" stroke, big cube setup is just going to add money to your build and be harder to package, specially if you want A/C. With 420+ cubes on a single, you should have a T6 flange. T6 turbo's typically have a very large footprint. You may want to look into twins if you are set on the big cubes and keeping the A/C.
And I don't know if people are flat out lying about their power levels...but when you see a TT Viper destroy a Hyabusa from say 60-170mph......that sucker has well over 1,000 RWHP. And they hook just fine from 50-60 rolls. I've ridden in them for roll races...they don't just slam it to the floor, but about 2-3 second roll in and its matted. No spin.
12-29-2009, 01:23 PM
#80
With the 402 you could get away with the PT91 and T4 flange but you gotta pick the right cam. This would be one of the few instances that I would use a reverse split to try to lower exhaqust back pressure. You could have a pump gas/low boost tune with about 750 rwhp and be very safe and street friendly. Then turn it up for special circumstances. 1000 rwhp should not be a problem. The only problem is that the LSX starts (IIRC) at a 4.1 bore or larger. The other issue that haunts us Fbody guys is trying to get anything bigger than a 4" pipe out of the engine compartment (without cutting a hole in the fender LOL). Even with a turbo kmember, **** is really tight. I would rethink the stroke if I were you unless you intend to go LS2 or LQ9. I personally don't like the long stroke for anything but that's just me.