bluehawk2

iTrader: (74)

I am starting to add several more parts to my turbo build and I am wondering how everyone is launching their turbo cars.

I normally foot brake into the prestage, then I get on the 2-step and then I stage. I am about to add a trans-brake and I am wondering how to stage the car now. Should I hook the 2-step up to the trans-brake to limit how many rpms it goes on the brake, or use the 2-step to build boost before I get on the brake?

Does anyone make a 3-step for our cars so that I can foot brake into the prestage beam, get on the 2-step, stage, hit the trans brake(having a third step to limit the rpms on the brake)?



thanks,




Brent

bluehawk2

iTrader: (74)

mods..... feel free to move this to drag racing tech if it is more appropriate there

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

I believe there is a 3-stage availible, but i can't remember if it's only on BS3, or AMS 1000, or something similiar.

bluehawk2

iTrader: (74)

I knew if I went to bs3 I would have this function available, but I didn't know if I could get something like my lnc 002 that would have the extra step built in.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

I think most would use line lock for the burn out, then use two step and transbrake .When exactly you would start would likely depend on how long the car takes to build the boost you want.
I have chosen not to run a transbrake at this time just line lock and two step. I will burn out on line lock and launch on foot brake with two step. But would expect better 60fts with a trans brake.

OneBadTA

Just curious but how do you go about staging with a 2 step while foot braking? Does the footbrake really hold the tires that well to build boost/power like that?

slow67

iTrader: (2)

Lingenfelter has a 3 step.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Yes,footbrake works fine with two step. You can set two step rpm also. May have to tweak things a bit and you might have to upgrade brakes as well.
Of course transbrake is great too but pricey and can be pretty hard on things.
Lots of cars get pretty good 60fts just with two step and footbraking. Fact depending on suspension setup the transbrake may not help much.

bluehawk2

iTrader: (74)

I had talked to LPE yesterday and they said that the -003 wasn't what I was looking for.

I guess I'm going to just use the 2-step to limit the rpms on the brake and do a little tuning or maybe get the converter loosened a little to spool on foot brake.

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

What if you ran two seperate two-steps? Have one activate lower than the other? And have the clutch switch on a push button for the lower one. So, be on the low two step on a button in the pre-stage, roll into the stage beams, let go of the button, and it "should" roll into the higher two step that is off the brakes?

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

Thats not the best way to do it. If your serious about racing or plan on racing on a normal basis, I'd invest in a 2nd set of calipers out back. I'd rather see you pre-stage and stage at the same RPM, it will make boost on the line more consistent and you'll be able to leave with more boost and less RPM. I can roll my car in on the high limiter and control the car with the rear brakes. That whole loosen the converter to get it to spool makes the car inefficient down track. We like to run the tightest converter we can spool.

bluehawk2

iTrader: (74)

I deff see what you are saying on the converter, but how loose is too loose for the converter. The highest i can go on the 2-step without it pushing is 2500. I could deff use doing some work on the brakes, but i'm not ready to do the strage brakes right now because I still daily drive the car.

If I can only foot brake 2500 without it pushing, could I use loosening the converter up a little without it affecting it down the track too much, or should I just leave it alone and concentrate on other ways of spooling?

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Well lots of variables. How much the brakes can hold. And the stall variables.
If you are going to do lots of track stuff then for sure a transbrake is great option to have. Two step with transbrake makes for some nice 60fts if suspension and other parts can handle it. Thats why serious track guys all pretty much run transbrakes and some type of two step.They usually use line lock for burnouts although read of few guys running transbrake and line lock.

My car is mostly street only going to be tracked a few times since don't think want to go to rollbar and all that to make it track legal to 10 or beyond. So for me footbrake and two step will be good enough ,so maybe can't get a 1.3 60ft maybe have to settle for a 1.6 or 1.5 or whatever.
But also you do need a converter that will go high enough to let the car build boost. Or as said you can also build boost fast with small shots of spray. Like even a 50 or 75 shot can do the job even with big laggy turbos.

I would go with like a boost specific converter from yank like my py3400. Talking to Yank could see them changing it maybe a bit higher or lower for your combo. It was designed to be not that loose on the street but still pretty good on the track. I don't lock it up on track at my power level though they said not too. Just lock it up in normal driving around stuff. They are still pretty efficient even not locked at dyno or track. Several fast guys like Mightymouse,etc on here run them.
On my auto race talon have stock converter It spools up to 15psi or so on stock turbo very quickly. But when put in my big turbo going to go up to like a 4500 stall. It might be a bit inefficient but not overly worried.Although this is more a race converter so it will likely be pretty efficient. But point is have to go to higher converter to be able to bring the rpm up higher without the car pushing thru. I have the two step set to 2000rpm on the race talon ,converter stalls around 2500 and turbo spools up in the 2000 range. After market will spool more like 4000 range so that stock converter is not going to work worth crap and not much else to get spool on the line . Tuning ,etc not going to do that much. two step and proper converter or spray mostly only way to get autos to build good boost on line. manual cars you can use antilag but that don't work that well on autos I hear never tried it yet though.
Many imports running big turbos use small shots of spray.And they don't even offer a transbrake for my talon.

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

Try more agressive pads, move the arm up on the pedal creating more mechanical advantage. Do you pump the brakes 4-5 times before you try to stage the car? Remember if it were easy anyone would do it. We see close to 10% slippage at 1/8 mile and 2-4% out the back door.

bluehawk2

iTrader: (74)

your right, Im prob closer than I realize to being able to spool it, just need to work on a few things. I always pump the brakes before I try to stage.

I was looking and the dual calipers on the back may not be such a bad thing. I can get street pads with that setup and i could also put valves on the back brakes to limit them for street driving. Looking into moving the pivot point on the pedal next. thanks!

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

thats about all my converter would go...just need a cam that'll get you into positive pressure at that rpm...more boost = more torque = more stall speed when then makes more boost even more torque and even higher stall...its then takes off pretty quick (as long as the brakes can hold it)

here's a video that shows it pretty well (starting at 50sec in). After burnout...would only go ~2400 on the foot brake...but it would cross into positive pressure. the first two step was ~4000 rpm...as it built boost, it went higher in rpm.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4LulA2kF2Y

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Interesting ideas about the brakes and stuff.
I just think if you have a decently matched stall and turbo and decent even stockish brakes you should be fine no need to get fancy. And really it may not matter that much if say you leave at 5psi or 7 psi or whatever depending on tires,suspension..etc.

As said if you are going to get serious about tracking the car and don't want to footbrake or worry about brakes holding then get a transbrake and be done. I still may add one in future but currently just not that into drag racing. Make a few runs ,get kicked off NHRA track for too fast with no rollbar ,run some outlaw tracks to hopefully get a 9 something and retire the car.No need for transbrakes on the street.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

What converter do you have currently?
Oh and not sure this would help but on my talon auto forums some guys say to use the handbrake as well as footbrake to hold the car and to as said pump the brakes a few times think in neutral? forget already to get a bit more holding..
But definitely two step and transbrake will work ok together thats the normal setup for serious cars.Then brakes are out of the equation and its all about converter.

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

you need brakes to get up on boost before a transbrake ever comes into play...unless you just sit at the tree until you boost up...but that makes for bad racing

bluehawk2

iTrader: (74)

I need to build enough boost to be able to leave on what I have the boost controller set for. If not it will ramp the boost in too quick trying to catch up and I will blow the tires out at the 60'

I have a vig 3600, but with the new turbo setup and smaller cam it doesn't stall as high

So, I really need to look into a better cam for boost..........one that would help me build boost better. I am running a TR cheatr cam