Cometic guys come in...Copper spray or no?
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Cometic guys come in...Copper spray or no? Removing some crappy head studs from my 355 on tuesday, have my ARP head studs and plan on re-using my cometic head gaskets(they have never been run). Taking a poll on how many of you use the copper spray. I realize Cometic says install DRY. Also what sealant do you find works best on the studs?
Last edited by 355TurboLT1; Jan 10, 2010 at 07:01 PM. Reason: addition
use the arp moly lube on the head studs. arp provides it in the box with the headstuds
keep in mind that the torque numbers are different for the moly lube then oil, just read the little paper and you should be fine
keep in mind that the torque numbers are different for the moly lube then oil, just read the little paper and you should be fine
id call them up and ask before i did anything.
cometics ive noticed to be kinda hit or miss when put on dry. id prefer a stock MLS gasket on just about any engine since they tend to have fewer sealing issues ive noticed.
ive used permatex copper spray on 4g63's, ej's and 7mgte's when copper head gaskets are used due to the slight imperfections that can cause leaks. the biggest thing is making sure that both sides are flat (head and block), MLS just happens to be alot more forgiving than copper.
elias hit it on the head about the torque specs being different, so as long as you take that in to account id use ARP moly lube.
cometics ive noticed to be kinda hit or miss when put on dry. id prefer a stock MLS gasket on just about any engine since they tend to have fewer sealing issues ive noticed.
ive used permatex copper spray on 4g63's, ej's and 7mgte's when copper head gaskets are used due to the slight imperfections that can cause leaks. the biggest thing is making sure that both sides are flat (head and block), MLS just happens to be alot more forgiving than copper.
elias hit it on the head about the torque specs being different, so as long as you take that in to account id use ARP moly lube.
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id call them up and ask before i did anything.
cometics ive noticed to be kinda hit or miss when put on dry. id prefer a stock MLS gasket on just about any engine since they tend to have fewer sealing issues ive noticed.
ive used permatex copper spray on 4g63's, ej's and 7mgte's when copper head gaskets are used due to the slight imperfections that can cause leaks. the biggest thing is making sure that both sides are flat (head and block), MLS just happens to be alot more forgiving than copper.
elias hit it on the head about the torque specs being different, so as long as you take that in to account id use ARP moly lube.
cometics ive noticed to be kinda hit or miss when put on dry. id prefer a stock MLS gasket on just about any engine since they tend to have fewer sealing issues ive noticed.
ive used permatex copper spray on 4g63's, ej's and 7mgte's when copper head gaskets are used due to the slight imperfections that can cause leaks. the biggest thing is making sure that both sides are flat (head and block), MLS just happens to be alot more forgiving than copper.
elias hit it on the head about the torque specs being different, so as long as you take that in to account id use ARP moly lube.
As far as the head studs go, I am curious as to the studs that go into the coolant passages. I know they need to be sealed or they will leak like a sieve.
I Know most of you guys are running the LS1 and alot of stuff doesn't translate.
Last edited by 355TurboLT1; Jan 10, 2010 at 08:57 PM. Reason: spelling
You are right you need to run sealant on the studs going in the water jacket. I use the liquid PST Locktight thread sealer and the moly lube on everything else. I run Cometic gaskets as is and have had no problems. They hold 18lbs of boost without pushing water.
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Dry on new Cometics, copper spray on used ones if the thin layer of stock coating appears damaged at all. Very important to prep the block and head surfaces as per their directions - if you have a rougher surface then use a different gasket design.
Jim
Jim
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I run the GM MLS currently, but have always run copper spray (including cometics on my old motor which was iron block/iron head). It takes VERY little spray to be effective, goop it on and you'll have problems.
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Put copper spray lightly on my cometics in my 97 talon. Was running 25psi no problem.
Currently running ls7 gaskets on my 408 with afr 225 but going to change them out to ls9MLS or possibly cometic.Would as said use some light copper spray I think.
Currently running ls7 gaskets on my 408 with afr 225 but going to change them out to ls9MLS or possibly cometic.Would as said use some light copper spray I think.
I suggest using the copper spray with the cometics.
I installed them dry the first time, and they seaped oil. I pulled the heads, bought new Gaskets, copper sprayed them, and reinstalled, that seamed to fix the problem.
Make sure to be carfeful that everything is clean, and follow the normal head tourque sequence. I also use arp studs.
This was done on my LT1 car.
I installed them dry the first time, and they seaped oil. I pulled the heads, bought new Gaskets, copper sprayed them, and reinstalled, that seamed to fix the problem.
Make sure to be carfeful that everything is clean, and follow the normal head tourque sequence. I also use arp studs.
This was done on my LT1 car.
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I suggest using the copper spray with the cometics.
I installed them dry the first time, and they seaped oil. I pulled the heads, bought new Gaskets, copper sprayed them, and reinstalled, that seamed to fix the problem.
Make sure to be carfeful that everything is clean, and follow the normal head tourque sequence. I also use arp studs.
This was done on my LT1 car.
I installed them dry the first time, and they seaped oil. I pulled the heads, bought new Gaskets, copper sprayed them, and reinstalled, that seamed to fix the problem.
Make sure to be carfeful that everything is clean, and follow the normal head tourque sequence. I also use arp studs.
This was done on my LT1 car.
You will need to drill the rivets, and spray each one separately. You will also need them to setup some before installing them on the car.
I thought about reusing my old ones, but then decided I only wanted to pull the heads once, and not waste even more time redoing the process again.
I thought about reusing my old ones, but then decided I only wanted to pull the heads once, and not waste even more time redoing the process again.
Launching!
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From: greensboro, nc
You will need to drill the rivets, and spray each one separately. You will also need them to setup some before installing them on the car.
I thought about reusing my old ones, but then decided I only wanted to pull the heads once, and not waste even more time redoing the process again.
I thought about reusing my old ones, but then decided I only wanted to pull the heads once, and not waste even more time redoing the process again.
I know a Guy in Maryland that turns out some killer stage 2 buick motors,He does not drill the Rivets...But uses a light Dusting of Hylomar on each side...Never a problem.
That is the same method I use myself,Never a problem..well north of 25psi on the little 4bolts per Cylinder 6.
Hylomar Aerosol is probably the best to use...It can be tough to find though,Some motorcycle shops still carry it,Or it can be found online.Supposedly it is used by Rolls Royce in there Engines.
Here is a link where it can be found... http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ite...alants-_-2VUU9
As the other poster above said, the turbo buick guys do it, along with some of the mustang, and LT1/Small block guys.
Launching!
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: greensboro, nc
I have ben building engines professionally for 14 years, I have worked for Richard Childress Racing all of witch their engines run cometic gaskets none of them have the rivets drilled. Our shop currently has the worlds 2nd fastest V6 Turbo Buick Owned by Bob Stanley. This not something I would do or recommend to do.