is this a waste of money????
is this a waste of money???? hey guys.. im building a 65 chevelle its full custom already outside/interior. im putting in a bone stock ls1 motor. doing the ls6 oil pump only right now. and doing a gt40 turbo, aeromotive fpr, fuel pump, 42lb injectors. im debating on getting a set of 317 heads with dual valve springs and a ls6 cam.. i can get the stuff for a decent deal. is it worth it? im onyl looking for 500rwhp since i would like it to be as safe as possible so it doesnt blow. what do you think? i think i would be able to hit 500rwhp on a bone stock ls1 motor with a gt40 turbo.. my car has a automatic on it..
gt40 is no good go with the master power t76 its a 1/3 the price and a great turbo. Get the 317s Around 150$ to drop the compression. ls6 cam is not necessary for 500whp Dual springs and hardened push rods is a good idea if your revving past 6500rpms 10-12lbs boost will get you around 500-550rhp
The LS6 cam works great for a lot of people on here. I'd get the 317s. Also get 60# injectors. 42 is too small I think. I had mine maxed out pretty early on my 5.3L and went to 60s.
ok.. 42lbs are to small? i thought those would handle in the mid 500rwhp range? im only looking to go 500rwhp only nomore. this will be in a full custom 65 chevelle that hardly gets driven.
You will need 60lb injectors. I agree that the master power t76 will be the way to go, evening if u dont use it to its fullest potential you have more to work with down the road. After seeing a friends build I would go with a custom turbo cam.
most turbo cars blow up because the injectors say 550hp what if at 500hp you hit a boost spike run to lean and BOOM! spend 20$ more and save your self the headache of a 2000$ fix for a blown motor
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the stock heads will be fine at that power level, the bottom end is the limiting factor on a good tune. i ran 14# for a long time on pump gas an meth with a stock longblock and never had any problems.
x2. Run the stock heads with the higher compression. I laugh that everyone changes to the 317's My car is at 600rwhp with the stock compression on only 8lbs boost. If i were to really turn the wick up on it then I would switch to the 317's.
ok cool.. well i ordered a a1000 fuel pump, aeromotive fpr, i bought some 60lb deka injectors, greddy rs bov, garrett gt40 turbo new for a great deal,
the only thing now that everybody is telling me is that my stocl 4l60e wont last long. which the car will only get driven once a month maybe twice. and never go to the track, its a show car and i do not beat on my cars.. what do you think aboht the tranny?
the only thing now that everybody is telling me is that my stocl 4l60e wont last long. which the car will only get driven once a month maybe twice. and never go to the track, its a show car and i do not beat on my cars.. what do you think aboht the tranny?
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 608
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From: New Zealand
The gt40 will be fine for your power goals, there is an Aussie kit that uses them ( T800 kit) and they work very well, awsome boost reponse and will easily make your 500 rwhp.
Stock motor with upgraded valve springs is all you need.
Stock motor with upgraded valve springs is all you need.
Lolwut? If you hit a boost spike and go lean, having more injector is not going to correct that. Theres not really a way to tune a car to take into account boost spikes because they are just that, spikes, theres no mathematical algorithm to compensate for them. The key is to get a good WG and turbo, along with charge piping and IC to keep boost spikes from occuring.
Lolwut? If you hit a boost spike and go lean, having more injector is not going to correct that. Theres not really a way to tune a car to take into account boost spikes because they are just that, spikes, theres no mathematical algorithm to compensate for them. The key is to get a good WG and turbo, along with charge piping and IC to keep boost spikes from occuring.
I agree to a point.
If you are on a 3bar tune and only run the boost up to xxxKpa, you could make the cells above the "normal" boost range 20% rich and the car would pull hard then lay over if the boost went out of control or spiked.
This will only work if you have some headroom with correct injectors.
I would think that this is how shops create a safe boost tune,
just like the old carb days....start rich and work your way lean till the power/mph drops off.
BUT, if you are maxing out a 2bar tune, then you ARE screwed if the boost falls off.
I would personally leave the engine alone aside from springs/pusrods and just keep the boost down.
Good luck!
Jim