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Newbie Speed Density vs. MAF

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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 08:04 AM
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Default Newbie Speed Density vs. MAF

So we all know that our cars (except for 93) run using a MAF sensor right before the throttle body. However, when going forced induction, i see alot of people converting to 2 bar or 3 bar map sensors. I know that a "bar" is 14.5psi or whatever, but how exactly does the computer know how to make fuel adjustments and such using a MAP sensor? With a MAF, the sensor reads how much air is flowing past it and gives reading to the computer to make fuel adjustments etc. So how does a MAP sensor work? Also, why is it advantageous to run a 2 or 3 bar map sensor? Thanks guys
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 08:38 AM
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A MAP sensor measures the air pressure. It also uses the IAT or intake air temperature. When the computer knows the pressure and the temperature, if can calculate the density. From there it knows how much fuel to inject, and that's about it.

1 bar is 14.7psi which is what we have at atmospheric level. You would need a 2 bar sensor for 0 to 14.7 psi of boost and a 3 bar sensor for 0 to 29.4 psi of boost.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by HydroStream6
A MAP sensor measures the air pressure. It also uses the IAT or intake air temperature. When the computer knows the pressure and the temperature, if can calculate the density. From there it knows how much fuel to inject, and that's about it.

1 bar is 14.7psi which is what we have at atmospheric level. You would need a 2 bar sensor for 0 to 14.7 psi of boost and a 3 bar sensor for 0 to 29.4 psi of boost.
Correct. The computer uses the MAP sensor reading vs the RPM to deliver the amount of fuel that the PCM(care of the tuner) commands for that given cell. It actually gives you more resolution and on big cam applications, it is easier to get the idle/driveability correct as the reversion from the cam can freak out a MAF sensor.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 03:01 PM
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not hijacking the thread, but my car is getting a speed density tune with the turbo setup in 2 weeks....with speed density, once the tune is set, when i want to turn up the boost (manual controler for now), do i need a new tune or does it just compensate?
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 03:05 PM
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you'll need a new tune.

because you pushing more air into the motor, the PCM has to compensate by adding more fuel. Atleast w/ a turbo setup you can control the boost better than a S/C. When ever it gets cold out the air is denser and you can see the boost levels go up.

Last summer mine was making 10# and on a cool Nov night, I was seeing 12-13#.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by C5kid
you'll need a new tune.

because you pushing more air into the motor, the PCM has to compensate by adding more fuel. Atleast w/ a turbo setup you can control the boost better than a S/C. When ever it gets cold out the air is denser and you can see the boost levels go up.

Last summer mine was making 10# and on a cool Nov night, I was seeing 12-13#.
Eh, technically the tune "should" be close because as the pressure goes up, the density goes up, so if those cells were already tuned, it would just read into different cells.

To be safe though, get it checked and tuned if necessary.
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 12:15 AM
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Just make sure when its tuned that while on the dyno you get it to put down the max it can so it can be taken into consideration. I can gain 2#'s of boost by just taking off my airlid but I dont drive with it off on the street. Since SD is boost referenced it will know how much air you are pushing into the motor.
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 11:09 AM
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I had my tuner back my timing way off and in conjunction with my BAP, and meth I can move between 10-15lbs of boost without any drastic changes in afr's (11.0-11.8) on pump gas. This is on one tune btw
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Just wondering if anyone has played with a adjustable MAF sensor? I saw a repeat show on Trucks (Spike) this weekend and they made a simple adjustable voltage add on for the MAF.
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