Alright I'm not sure how much this has been discussed on LS1Tech but from what I hear people rag on STS for having cheap couplers and having some misc problems. What about making a custom rear mounted turbo system?

First problem:
One of the problems the couplers can be fixed by going to an exhaust shop and getting them to make the piping for you. Having only 3 T-Bolt Clamps, 1 on the exhaust to the turbo, 1 after the turbo, and 1 right before the intake so that it can be all taken out easily and keep leaks to a minimum.

Second problem:
This is quoted from LS1.com by user FROST
"Here's a HUGE issue.... you need solid crankcase venting the most under boost; more so than driving around. Instead of doing the normal thing and pulling a vacuum from the inlet of the turbo, they go to the INTAKE. At this point, they have a Hobbs switch. As soon as it 'sees' any boost, it snaps a solenoid shut and TOTALLY WIPES OUT CRANKCASE VENTING WHEN IT IS NEEDED THE MOST. They actually spent more money in the PCV area to do it the wrong way. How can this POSSIBLY be the installer's fault?"
The Fix
This is quoted from LS1.com by user FROST
"For venting, pop a fitting into the pipe between the turbo inlet and filter. Run the line to a catch can to keep oil from the turbo's inlet. Run the other side of the can to the two valve covers to draw vacuum. Vacuum will grow as the turbo comes up keeping the crankcase vented."

Third problem:
Many people say there is a problem building boost in first gear and only get around 5PSI before shifting into 2 but isnt this a good thing due to the fact that too much TQ will just spin the tires and building full boost lets say 8PSI in second is when you really start needing the 500HP/TQ to the wheels to keep going. Right?

Fourth problem:
The placement of the air filter which I heard they already fixed on some models, but I would try and put the filter as far up as possible next to the gas tank if not try and cut a hole in the trunk where most people put their stealth boxes at.

For my own personal use I would try to do this and run 8PSI with Meth/Water injection and later stroke the engine to a 383 with forged internals and lower the compression to 9:1 and increase the boost to 15PSI and later after that do a cam head swap for close to 700RWHP.

What do you guys think?

P.S no talking about the TTI turbos and whatnot because I'm more concerned with the fact putting the turbo in the back cools the turbo down significantly and the tubing running to the intake acts as its own intercooler and for those reasons im more interested in rearmounted turbos.

Reference http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98078

 

ok. i agree. Several of us have taken what STS gave us and modified it quite a bit. Zombie & myself, along with others.

One very important thing is crankcase ventilation....very important. Not so sure about doing all that you say on that tho...just run vents w/filters.

 

A LOT

Valid points though.

 

Can anyone suggest a good turbo to use for a 383 LS1 wanting a max of 15 lbs of boost that is somewhat low cost and decent quality.

 

1) you can certainly do something like that I think Zombie changed up plenty of his pipes recently. Once he gets his pictures up you can see for yourself.
2) that is a good way but that will be a very long hose to run
3) can't comment I have an auto and have 0 problems building boost and keeping it in any gear
4) go for it I am going to get under the car and see what I can do with it because mine is still in the exhaust hanger position. I haven't had any issues with water getting in there but I do have the sock for it for when the weather gets sh*tty

if you want to make power do not get the baseline model or if you do upgrade the turbo. how many people do you see on here (besides twins) running that small of a turbo (60-1) but understand you are going to be pushing that stock motor to its limits. As with every kit it will make power if done correctly.

here is the thing, once those minor fixes are done to the STS kit there is nothing else you really need to worry about. Crankcase venting is needed for all FI so you can't just say that is a downfall for just STS. Now I would think the most expensive thing would be getting rid of the oil pump that comes with it. I still have my sts oil pump on just been too lazy to put the mocal on. I only had a few minor issues but nothing that fixing a fuse or resetting a ground didn't handle. If you just read people's experiences about it and what they did to fix/upgrade whatever issue they were having then you would have no worries. Since customer service isn't listening to people with their upgrades and complaints is what is making the STS seem like junk to people. And if you ever hear someone say that they are junk without experiencing it on their own car just what they heard then I don't think that is a valid opinion. If you really want to know why someone didn't like it grill them about it. Shoot ask them why they didn't do the simple fixes that most people that still have their rear mounts and loving do. Now as far a comparing a rear mount<front mount but ease of install rear mount>front mount. It only took me by myself in my driveway 4 hrs and I am no mechanic just read the instructions a few times before hand and did a walk through before even starting.

 

talk to Dr.Turbo or Jose from Forced Inductions. and its not boost you have to really worry about...its airflow

unless you find someone clearing out and moving on with things in life you won't be able to go cheap and I don't recommend it if you do

 

It seems like there has been some misconception about the STS PCV system. Here are some pictures/diagrams to hopfully clear up any mis-understanding.



Here is a typical STS PCV system on a C6 Corvette.



Here is a page out of the STS universal instruction manual showing the a standard PCV system on a vehicle with a MAF sensor.



Here is a diagram of the STS PCV system integrated into a factory PCV system and under non-boosted driving conditions



Here is a diagram again showing the STS PCV system integrated into a factory factory PCV system but under boosted driving conditions.

 

I relize that boost is not the concern but thats why I mention 383ci. Couldn't find Dr.Turbo on the members list does anyone know the "right" specs for a turbo for a rear mount or anybody have the experience?

I also know that building a "cheap" system can cost more money in the long run but lets say that you spend a $1,000 for the turbo itself which from what I hear you can get a decent one for that price then spend say $400 for BOV and Wastegate $300 on Piping depending where you get it done I have a friend that would probably do it for less. and $200 for a scavenge pump. lets see what else am i missing? I think those are the major things right and hoses, wires, filter, t-clamps misc $500. Sorry if this sounds too ignorant but thats why I bring it to the more experienced people like you guys.

Turbo - $1,000
BOV and Waste Gate - $400
Piping - $300
Scavenge Pump - $200
Misc - $500
$2,400-$3,000 total

EDIT
[boost gauge - $50 or less
adjustable waste gate add $100+-
injectors and fuel pump $500
Tune with 2 bar setup?- $500
Wideband O2 Sensors - $200
Total $3,700 -$4,000]

only talking about 5-8PSI for safety reasons and maybe Meth/Water injection if pushing more the 6PSI.

Also I know everybody says that headers are not the way to go due to the fact that it dissapates a lot of heat but they flow a lot better then my stock 99 manifolds. Why not use wrapped headers with 3" to the Y-pipe and make 2.5" after? Wouldn't that be one of the best setups?

I mentioned stroking it out to 383 in the near future after a turbo setup to bring the compression to about 9:1 and have forged internals and heads and cam are more like 2 years from now but with just pushing 15 PSI with the stroker wont that push say 650HP/TQ to the wheels? Obviously a fast or sheetmetal intake would be needed and new headgaskets would be needed and upgraded valvetrain but just a geuss.

Does any body have any suggestions on a stroker kit that may be a sponser hear I was thinking a stroker kit would run close to $2500 for some decent quality right?

Thanks for all your help guys the information on here is invaluable and its great talking and hearing people that love cars/ls1 camaros.

 

At close to $4000 it seems easier to get the kit but this includes just about everything and not to mention better quality stuff right, I would like to make it a dd with 5 PSI and after stroking it, weekend driver, and after heads just mainly to race it.

 

a tc76 turbo from Jose @ Forced Inductions will run you slightly more than 1k, and a tc76 or 78 would do you some good power on that 383

 

Now is that an exact turbo or does it come in different trim sizes? You think the spool time@ 15 lbs of boost would be "friendly"

Not sure if this is illegal or not but i found this one just by using google real quick
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...=TRB-T76-P68-N

is this what you are referring to exactly?

 

you will still need an intercooler, at least meth injection, especially if you want to hit your 700whp goal

most rear mounts i have seen have the cold side piping pretty close to the exhaust piping

use the search feature on this website, this topic has been beaten to death

 

alright I read www.junkyardturbos.com like 5 times now and know exactly what I would need and sorry I think I could of probably just keep reading these forums and figured it out but the only thing that takes a good amount of experience is what turbo I need. I looked at the turbonetics BB T-76 quite a bit and decided this is an excellent turbo with ....68 A/R right, spool quickly..ish. What about the other specs on this stuff that I need to make a educated decision???