Best budget forged bottome end?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,184
Likes: 28
From: Orange County, CA
Best budget forged bottome end? I am going to be doing a D1SC build, going for 600-700rwhp.
What I have now for the motor
Kooks 1 7/8"x2" stepped headers 3.5" collectors
3.5" in to 4" out Y-pipe merge
4" cutout
Edelbrock Victor JR
Edelbrock 90* elbow
Holley 90mm TB
EPP cam
Now all I need a block to slap it all on.
I was looking at a 370cu.in iron block from Texas Speed.
With Wiseco dished pistons, Callies rods, stock crank, ARP main studs it comes out to ~$3,362.00.
Anyone have any reommendations/suggestions/substitues for a budget forged bottom end?
What I have now for the motor
Kooks 1 7/8"x2" stepped headers 3.5" collectors
3.5" in to 4" out Y-pipe merge
4" cutout
Edelbrock Victor JR
Edelbrock 90* elbow
Holley 90mm TB
EPP cam
Now all I need a block to slap it all on.
I was looking at a 370cu.in iron block from Texas Speed.
With Wiseco dished pistons, Callies rods, stock crank, ARP main studs it comes out to ~$3,362.00.
Anyone have any reommendations/suggestions/substitues for a budget forged bottom end?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,184
Likes: 28
From: Orange County, CA
I was also considering the SLP402.
I plan on taking a set of 317 heads to WCCH to be ported. I'll also have them port match my Victor JR to the heads.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,184
Likes: 28
From: Orange County, CA
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Its a little easier/cheaper to drop the compression through a dished set of pistions. If you run 317's you cant mill them for future rebuilds and you can only run heads with 72cc combustion chambers from then on
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 99
I am going to be doing a D1SC build, going for 600-700rwhp.
What I have now for the motor
Kooks 1 7/8"x2" stepped headers 3.5" collectors
3.5" in to 4" out Y-pipe merge
4" cutout
Edelbrock Victor JR
Edelbrock 90* elbow
Holley 90mm TB
EPP cam
Now all I need a block to slap it all on.
I was looking at a 370cu.in iron block from Texas Speed.
With Wiseco dished pistons, Callies rods, stock crank, ARP main studs it comes out to ~$3,362.00.
Anyone have any reommendations/suggestions/substitues for a budget forged bottom end?
What I have now for the motor
Kooks 1 7/8"x2" stepped headers 3.5" collectors
3.5" in to 4" out Y-pipe merge
4" cutout
Edelbrock Victor JR
Edelbrock 90* elbow
Holley 90mm TB
EPP cam
Now all I need a block to slap it all on.
I was looking at a 370cu.in iron block from Texas Speed.
With Wiseco dished pistons, Callies rods, stock crank, ARP main studs it comes out to ~$3,362.00.
Anyone have any reommendations/suggestions/substitues for a budget forged bottom end?
Scoggins says not to worry about the rods in another thread.
http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/lsx/index.jsp
This will be the budget engine for me when I replace my 347.
Same rule would apply to all heads... you can run whatever in future builds. Larger combustion chambers do more than just drop compression.... less valve shrouding = better lower lift flow numbers.
I wouldnt waste money on ARP main studs either.....even head bolts... stock parts would hold well more than your targeted HP. Some of that stuff is so over rated. I would even use stock rods w/ some better bolts. ......actually for that HP.... I use all stock stuff ...
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,184
Likes: 28
From: Orange County, CA
So why cant you mill these heads versus other heads? No offense but you sound like your on crack. Same rule would apply to all heads... you can run whatever in future builds.
Larger combustion chambers do more than just drop compression.... less valve shrouding = better lower lift flow numbers.
I wouldnt waste money on ARP main studs either.....even head bolts... stock parts would hold well more than your targeted HP. Some of that stuff is so over rated. I would even use stock rods w/ some better bolts. ......actually for that HP.... I use all stock stuff ...
Same rule would apply to all heads... you can run whatever in future builds. Larger combustion chambers do more than just drop compression.... less valve shrouding = better lower lift flow numbers.
I wouldnt waste money on ARP main studs either.....even head bolts... stock parts would hold well more than your targeted HP. Some of that stuff is so over rated. I would even use stock rods w/ some better bolts. ......actually for that HP.... I use all stock stuff ...
