Damn. Glad that thing didn't get messed up. Beautiful car and numbers. Steve is the man on tuning:).

i gained around 30 RWHP on the dyno by rem the inlet-i use an F body one on my chevelle, with a vette Procharger setup-went to Home Depot and got a small roll of 1/4" screen, just molded it around the opening, and used a hose clamp to secure it-i thought the small screen would be a rest, if you added up all the surface area of the screen-when i make a pass i'll stick it on
i would like to make a larger 4" inlet deal, gotta work on that
nice #'s, better than my stroker w/AFR 225 heads, lol

We're still waiting for the video BTW.. :D

Sorry about the clutch too.. :bang:

haha....I'll see what I can do....my buddy has it

I am not sure on cr. My motor with stock heads and the diamond dish pistons was 9.5. Then I put on milled AFR 205's (62 cc). We guess it is around 9.8 - 10.0

damn man that some great numbers.those numbers sound fun to drive.

I wish I would have seen this thread before you went to the track. I would have told you to remove that screen from the inlet. They are huge restirctions actually.
Even the smallest K&N made will flow (and protect) better than any screen will offer.

If you're going to run with it anyways, at least open up the surface area to allow more airflow...

I gave fair warning in post 34..

Nice! What is your CR? I think mine made 808rwhp because it was a little higher CR than most. Sick numbers, it'll feel awesome!

On my car I was aiming for 16psi with my F1A. I had a custom inlet fabricated turned out to be about as good as the stock procharger hat 13 psi was all it was good for with an F1A! I finally got the procharger truck inlet to work with my FMIC setup and so far so good making 16-17psi on a 418CI.

I highly suggest the truck inlet and that huge cone K&N air filter it will meet your flow requirements and won't break the bank. It's pretty much the only thing that will fit behind the stock radiator. Make sure you verify it will fit on the D1 head unit though.

I thought I was going to play that game where you take the inlet off for the track but with these cars it's a PITA you got to get underneath the damn thing to remove the air filters. Just removing that thing through my tune for a loop so much that it was unsafe. I suggest biting the bullet finding a good inlet and sticking to it. I know you said track only BUT fine dust will wear away at the impeller blades making them rough and ineffective. One rock will ruin your day too.

Either way my clutch didn't hold power....but what do you all suggest doing? running with nothing? Got a part # for the small K&N filter you are referring to?

Like I stated above I do not know cr....but we believe it's around 9.8

I don't have to worry about tune, I have dual flash pcm and race map was made for it without anything on blower ;) but I might add truck inlet at some point and see what it does

and your 396" motor... :D This one is still a little ole 346" setup

Very Awesome Numbers and Very Clean Ride!!!

Do you have anypictures of your setup?

Haha, good point! That long stroke probably helped me.

I was wondering the same thing. Sorry for the jack OP!

Awesome build and great numbers! Congrats.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ld-thread.html

half way down the first page

It looks like you cut the bottom of your radiator support up pretty good. But then it doenst look the inlet tube is that close??

Good numbers and yeah that inlet hat is a major restriction, I saw similar HP improvements removing mine on the dyno.

I hate it so much I decided to ditch it altogether.