Read the bottle that I have. 1 hour to dry and 24 to cure. I would have waited a day. Even way, let says it is not the map now. Could your catch can set up have a leak where it is undetected. Like a crack somewhere on the can itself. The only thing I can think of to do is to unhook the catch can and inlet before the maf.

 

I already tried that. I unhooked every PCV line on the carb, manifold, and valve covers and capped them all to be sure. No dice.

I haven't gotten the wideband installed because I'm scared to drive this thing anywhere right now.

 

Got an aircompressor? We can put a cap over the TB and pressurize the manifold.

 

Yep. Big one.

 

You wont need to drive anywhere to put a wideband in. Were you going to have a shop do it or something?

 

I thought you had to have the bung welded in? How else would you hold it on there?

 

This a simple fix. The BIG problem is trying to find what is. DAMM it..... Kyle brings up a good point about the extensions. Also you need to find out your afr readings too. You toast that motor on its maden voyage by how lean I think it is running.

 

That's why I don't want to drive it anywhere at al...

 

we can atleast pull out each o2 sensor and put the wideband into it. We can get a reading off each bank and see if one is running leaner than the other.

 

True. I have the wiring for the WB run...it's just zip-tied up under the car. I can pull the O2s and plug the WB in on each side and take a reading.

I'll get one for idle, off idle accel (where the hesitation is), and part throttle on each side and tell you guys what the numbers are.

 

Sounds good man! Im off tomorrow, Im always down to help!

 

Alright I got some interesting info for you guys. Hooked the wideband up into the drivers side header, and climbed in to get the readings off the gauge.

Idle is at 12.6. I go to get the value during hesitation, but the hesitation is gone! Tried several times to get it to replicate what was happening before, but it's just gone like a fart in the wind. So I'm like, OK...bring the rpms up to 1500 where the surge has been. The freaking surge is gone! I'm like WTF? Reading is at 12.3. I gave it gas up to about 3000rpms, and the reading is about the same at 12.3 or so. As I decel, I saw some 11s, but it stabilizes back at idle to 12.6.

What do I make of that? Could the O2 be bad? Extensions? I found a spot where the extension had made contact with the header and barely melted the corregated tubing around the wires. I don't want to rush out and buy $100 worth of O2s if that's not the problem...

Be back with passenger side readings in a second.

 

Awesome! Gotta love progress. I can bring by a couple o2s and see if its just the o2s but it could be the extension thats melted. Although the corregated tubing only looks melted it could have damaged the wires.

 

Looks like the RTV cured. J/K. Looks like you may need to borrow a O2 from Kyle before you do run out and buy one. I think you hit the nail on the head!

 

If he did damage the wires, he could atleast solder them back and cover with heat shrink until he gets new ones to just see if that is the problem.

 

Glad to see the ghost problem is gone.
I have a welder in my garage to weld that bung on with. I can plug into any 110 outlet so no problem there. Just let me know when your ready to do it and I'll do it for you. I don't have anything going on until after lunch tomarrow since it's easter.
Too bad we can't have it up on a bench, though.
Those numbers seem lean still. I like to be a little richer with the afr on my boosted builds.

 

Does your welding offer extend to me as well? I think its time I put some o2s in, Im not sure if this OL **** is good for Alaska. The temperature changes so often, as well the elevation from one place to another.

 

It's best if your exhaust piece is pulled off to get a good weld on it. But if not I should still beable to do it. Bring it by sometime.

Q my tech 2 will tell you if your stock o2's are working or not.

 

OK, here's what I found.

With the driver's side O2 out and the wideband in: idle was 12.6, 1500rpm was 12.3, 3000rpm was 12.3ish. When I give it gas, you see the WB value shoot way up (I'm assuming that's because of the incoming rush of air through the TB), then come down and stabilize (and I assume that's the computer compensating for the lean mixture and adding fuel)

With the WB in the passenger side and the driver's side O2 back in the driver's side: idle is 12.0, 1500 rpm is 11.6, 3000rpm is 11.6ish. Same deal, no surge, but there's more hesitation and leaning out off idle.

With the WB still in the passenger side and the passenger side O2 in the driver's side: idle is 12.1, 1500rpm is 11.7, 3000 rpms is 11.7ish. A little hesitation off idle, but no surging.

Not sure whether I should trash these O2s with the extensions and buy the longer Bosch ones or what. No matter what combination, when I take one O2 sensor out and plug the WB in, the surge is gone completely. Idle is perfect, and revs are much quicker and responsive. Not sure what taking an O2 out would do to cure my problems, but it does.

 

Dustin checked the O2s with HPT and said it looked like they were functioning properly. They were switching on and off like they should.