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So far most people think the D1 will be a little small for the cubes im really wanting. Which F series blower would you go with? What is the differences/limits between the F1A/C/R?
We are piecing together a procharger kit for my brothers car and have everything but a headunit pretty much. He could use my D1 if I found a good F series blower.
Goal, is 1400 hp at the crank fwiw.
Goal, is 1400 hp at the crank fwiw.
I'm still learning on what is the right motor setup with what power adder.
For example i'm wondering if you can have to much bore and not enough stroke?, or visa-versa to much stroke and not enough bore? Just curious what it takes to get the most potential out of your power adder. Or am I wrong about it? Like said above, you were told under 380 ci. Why exactly? What about below a 380 is better than a 402? Is it more or less a best bang for the buck scenerio or will the smaller motor actually make more power? I've always been under the impression more cubes will make more power.
Thanks for all the help guys. Keep the info. coming. I could probably just call a few of our sponsors, but i'm sure im not the only one with these questions.
I'm still learning on what is the right motor setup with what power adder.
For example i'm wondering if you can have to much bore and not enough stroke?, or visa-versa to much stroke and not enough bore? Just curious what it takes to get the most potential out of your power adder. Or am I wrong about it? Like said above, you were told under 380 ci. Why exactly? What about below a 380 is better than a 402? Is it more or less a best bang for the buck scenerio or will the smaller motor actually make more power? I've always been under the impression more cubes will make more power.
Thanks for all the help guys. Keep the info. coming. I could probably just call a few of our sponsors, but i'm sure im not the only one with these questions.
I'm debating on the drysump for my application, if I do end up with a dry sump, or even an external wet sump pump I will be able to spin this to 9000 rpm, which when you have a limited blower size, will result in a faster car. More times the cyl's fine going down the track the more power it's making, if that makes sense.
For a street setup that's probably on a stock oil system you want to limit the rpm to about 7500 I'd think, so pulley for max impeller speed at 7500 and set your rev limiter there would be my advise (if you're running a belt which I assume), and then figure out how much air that will be moving (the blower), figure that at the max amount that it can see. Then figure out how many CI that can feed, and build something in that size or a touch smaller and you should be in good shape.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Just keep it on the small side (motor CI) and you'll be o.k., you don't want it running out of air, which the bigger the motor the more this becomes an issue. Granted, if you're gonna keep the motor redline 7000 rpm you can probably put a D1sc on a 408 and not run out of you spin it to max impeller speed, but the slightly smaller motor, shorter stroke and slightly smaller bore (4.0 vs 4.030) will be a little happier at slightly more RPM, and I bet it will make just as much power. Piston design will be better too since you're not pulling them down so far with the shorter stroke.
That's my opinion after talking to a couple people, seems to be the genaral consensus of people racing with a limited blower size.
Also look into the cog or 12 rib or whatever the best drive system you can right off the bat, in the long run you will be glad you did.
Also there are some weisco 4.005 pistons for sale in the sale section. -8cc relief. Any idea on what the compression would be with a 65cc head? I'm looking at the TFS 225s. I'm on E85 and meth so I could probably stand a little more compression to help aid in some power, but i'm not sure what the ideal number is.
Last edited by kkslds; Apr 14, 2010 at 06:27 PM.
There's a program you can get a free download of, it's called engine calculator, search that on yahoo and it should come up, helpful for determining compression ratio, etc.
I'm far enough away from building the motor so I can wait until a couple of the new parts that are coming will be available in time for me to use them, I'm considering the GM LSX DR heads... for an inline valve head, they look to be one of the best options out there for what I want to do along with the intake that they are making to go with them (single plane) If those aren't available when I'm ready to get started, it will either be an Allpro LSW, or one of Cary's heads, which one, I am unsure at this point. I'd like to say I can spend the $ on canted valve heads, but it's not in the budget, and I don't think they're needed to get where I want to be.
Right now, if the lsx DR head was available, I would be using those with a std deckheight RHS block, the raised cam in that block will help with valvetrain stability for the 8500 rpm I want to be able to turn the motor, the priority oiling, block strength are all there too. I'm looking at putting a 4.155 bore, 3.5 stroke together as well, that way the bore is big enough to utilize the large valves that the heads some with, stroke is nice and short, so the harmonics should be reduced helping keep the gear drive bushings happy, and it puts the CI where I want it. Planning on a center counterweighted crank, and alum. rods, to keep things as light as possible and get the balance as good as we can. Also going to have the crank made with a BBC snout as well, so that the crank is strongest where it needs to be.
This is for an extreme application, I'm not jumping in lightly, we're aiming for 1200 to 1400 hp at the crank, for a street application this type of stuff is way overkill that I'm sure of... but I always overbuild for the goal in hopes of increasing reliability.
I have a couple options right now. I have a iron 6.0 block that I had planned on doing something with (365,370,etc.), but apparently a spun cam bearing is a bigger deal than I had planned(Do they make oversized cam bearings and would it be problematic). Anyone know my options with this?
Next the stock ls1 is still in my car and is doing great. I would really like more power though and i'm pushing it past its limits right now. So if the iron block isn't worth messing with should I do a forged 347 or 383 and why. I've heard the only downfall to the 383 is head choice, but afr has a small bore head that would take care of the job I believe.
Either combination will have my d1sc spinning to the max. My car is on E85 so a little more compression with whichever combo might be a possibility.
Also my D1 will be up for sale shortly. Gonna be in the market for a F1C/R
Also the Iron block was fixable with some Gen IV cam bearings.
Also my D1 will be up for sale shortly. Gonna be in the market for a F1C/R
Also the Iron block was fixable with some Gen IV cam bearings.






