APS TT not reaching set boost.....??
Hope don't have these problems .So far just using my eboost 2 for boost monitoring. Wasn't going to boost those standard aps turbos past 7.5.So far no probems hitting 7.5.
Have to look at how you guys hooked up your solenoids and where are you mounting them? I have two of them . Also not sure what you mean about boost only source.
Have to look at instructions again. Don't think you mean line to eboosts that one obviously is boost and vacuum as the gauge reads both.
Should have some more data for you guys in a few weeks. Right now enjoying my car with the great weather and not into tearing it apart to put in the lgs. I am lucky that my standards are still working for me. Main reason likely is never cranked them up.
Looks like good ideas to clean the gates and lubricate or whatever even year maybe.
I swapped things around on my passenger side gate or it would have been near impossible to take it off without dropping the transmission. Now its annoying but doable. And that is nice if have to swap out springs. It is weird that your eboost don't seem to be working if the gates are not leaking. Could be other boost leaks maybe. I don't like the aps clamps they are crap. I will be replacing all of mine with t bolt clamps and possibly also a lot of the silicone as well. I like my kit but have been tweaking it. Not a huge deal to me.
Have to look at how you guys hooked up your solenoids and where are you mounting them? I have two of them . Also not sure what you mean about boost only source.
Have to look at instructions again. Don't think you mean line to eboosts that one obviously is boost and vacuum as the gauge reads both.
Should have some more data for you guys in a few weeks. Right now enjoying my car with the great weather and not into tearing it apart to put in the lgs. I am lucky that my standards are still working for me. Main reason likely is never cranked them up.
Looks like good ideas to clean the gates and lubricate or whatever even year maybe.
I swapped things around on my passenger side gate or it would have been near impossible to take it off without dropping the transmission. Now its annoying but doable. And that is nice if have to swap out springs. It is weird that your eboost don't seem to be working if the gates are not leaking. Could be other boost leaks maybe. I don't like the aps clamps they are crap. I will be replacing all of mine with t bolt clamps and possibly also a lot of the silicone as well. I like my kit but have been tweaking it. Not a huge deal to me.
Ok looked over the instructions. So understand boost only connection now to solenoid. But dont' understand why you are not simply going off turbos since they have the nipples even lg ones have them I think haven't really unpacked my lg yet. If they have them then simply hook up there and would assume mounting solenoids under trans is good place for them? Where are you mounting them and is that why you are running line from pre tb? I figure putting them under there near gates will make running the hoses from solenoids to gates simple. Then just run wires down there.
So Tom do you think I can get 20psi with method 2 then with 7.5psi springs. Whats max you have gotten your old aps up to?
So Tom do you think I can get 20psi with method 2 then with 7.5psi springs. Whats max you have gotten your old aps up to?
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I use.. the Innovate controller and check the solenoids,[2] w/ an adjustable pressure reg hooked to shop air. This allows me to see if the set boost is actually where the solenoids are working.
You can also make a block off plate, use the shop air and see if the gates are leaking, and how well the controller is working.. A kind of "bench test" of the components without the engine being involved.....
Single PT70GT, and a sleezy V-sicks.. Only 850FW..
You can also make a block off plate, use the shop air and see if the gates are leaking, and how well the controller is working.. A kind of "bench test" of the components without the engine being involved.....
Single PT70GT, and a sleezy V-sicks.. Only 850FW..
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I just ordered some stainless steel braided hose, hose ends, and T fittings to replace the rubber hoses that go to and from the wastegates and boost controller solenoid. This will prevent any future chaffing and will hopefully be my fix. These hoses are in such compact places its very hard to check without just pulling them out, and since Id have to pull them out, Ill just replace with better hose.
I ordered -6AN hoses and ends to be big enough to go over the wastegate fittings. This will be roughly the size of my current rubber hoses.
I ordered -6AN hoses and ends to be big enough to go over the wastegate fittings. This will be roughly the size of my current rubber hoses.
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Update guys:
I replaced the vacuum hoses that make The "circuit" from both ports on each of the wastegates to main boost source to the boost controller solenoid with SS braided hose and AN fittings with absolutely no change.
Tomorrow I may leak test the entire charge system again. Other than that, I'm kind of at a loss of things to do to make this little bastard reach over 9.8ish psi on a hot day (a little higher on a cooler night) !!!!
I replaced the vacuum hoses that make The "circuit" from both ports on each of the wastegates to main boost source to the boost controller solenoid with SS braided hose and AN fittings with absolutely no change.
Tomorrow I may leak test the entire charge system again. Other than that, I'm kind of at a loss of things to do to make this little bastard reach over 9.8ish psi on a hot day (a little higher on a cooler night) !!!!
f... it take the lines off the WG and very slowly drive the car and bring the RPM up until it makes more boost, and if it does not we need to start thinking about other things in the engine. just a idea
What Tom said.Try that.Should boost to the moon then just be careful. Boost leaks are a curse for sure. If you can get access to automotive smoke machine that is great way to check for leaks.Pressurizing things is harder.
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The ONLY issue with the car itself is that after a hard pull into boost, coming to a stop will make the car almost die. I have to use one foot on the gas a brake to keep it going. Once it comes to a complete stop, it will regain its normal idle.
I dont see what else could be wrong in the engine. Its got to be the turbo kit......
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SP1 and SP2 act perfect. SP1 = 7-8 and SP2 = 8-9
When I tested it last night, SP1 and SP2 were great. I turned it to SP6, which has a set "value" of 48 to reach around 14-16 psi, and it reached 9.4psi. Raised the value to 60, it reached 9.6psi. Raised the value to 70, and it reached 9.8psi. This testing was done in 87* weather. The 70 value will reach 10.8 at night when its cool.
So right around the 9.5-10.5 psi range is when it causes a problem.
I can try that. Getting a couple 1 Bar springs to put in to see if reaches 1 bar would do basically the same thing, except Id have a limit, correct??
The ONLY issue with the car itself is that after a hard pull into boost, coming to a stop will make the car almost die. I have to use one foot on the gas a brake to keep it going. Once it comes to a complete stop, it will regain its normal idle.
I dont see what else could be wrong in the engine. Its got to be the turbo kit......
The ONLY issue with the car itself is that after a hard pull into boost, coming to a stop will make the car almost die. I have to use one foot on the gas a brake to keep it going. Once it comes to a complete stop, it will regain its normal idle.
I dont see what else could be wrong in the engine. Its got to be the turbo kit......
The line off is simple test and not that dangerous .Your right foot can control boost pretty easily.
About the car dying that is nothing to do with the kit but might indicate a tuning issue or some sort of boost/vacuum leak.
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I just went a pressure tested the charge system again and found my problem (99.9% sure). At about 3.5-4 psi, the rubber coupler coming out of the passenger side intercooler starts blowing open. I would imagine at about 9.5psi, which is the pressure I can't ever get over, every bit of air my passenger side turbo is putting out, is escaping.....leaving only the drivers side turbo doing the work? or at least the boost from the passenger side is very negligible.
Ill pull the bumper either today or tomorrow and take a close look at a couple of the other clamps and fix the main problem. Weather looks clear for sunday, so expect an update on Sunday.
Yeah, they were just going to be used for test purposes.
I believe SP1 is WG springs only. Reaches ~7psi
The car is tuned in a "hybrid" way. Im running the MAF and well as a 2 bar MAP. Im wanting a full SD tune soon, just wanted to fix these issues first to save me time and money, as well as not waste the tuners time.
Im pretty sure they are genuine Tial WG's. I did a quick google search last week and there are problems all over the internet of Tial WG sticking....not just the APS kits.
Ill pull the bumper either today or tomorrow and take a close look at a couple of the other clamps and fix the main problem. Weather looks clear for sunday, so expect an update on Sunday.
Well only problem if you buy 1 bar springs is you will have that as minimum if you keep using them. I like to have lower springs so can ramp boost up by rpm,time or gear.
The line off is simple test and not that dangerous .Your right foot can control boost pretty easily.
About the car dying that is nothing to do with the kit but might indicate a tuning issue or some sort of boost/vacuum leak.
The line off is simple test and not that dangerous .Your right foot can control boost pretty easily.
About the car dying that is nothing to do with the kit but might indicate a tuning issue or some sort of boost/vacuum leak.
The car is tuned in a "hybrid" way. Im running the MAF and well as a 2 bar MAP. Im wanting a full SD tune soon, just wanted to fix these issues first to save me time and money, as well as not waste the tuners time.
Im pretty sure they are genuine Tial WG's. I did a quick google search last week and there are problems all over the internet of Tial WG sticking....not just the APS kits.
Hmm interesting . So yeah big boost leak is going to cause the problem. I plan on going thru my aps and replacing with good quailty silicone and tbolt clamps.
Not sure you can run maf and 2 bar.Maybe that is your stalling problem?
If you are using hp tuners and know how to send me file I can look it over for you.
Hope they are genuine gates. So guess might have to also take mine apart and put in antisieze like Tom said. So the synapse gates can't stick open?
Tial, genuine tial has been around for a long time.I have it on my 97 talon and was going to put one on my 91 race car. No problems on 97 and so far now problems on the 99TT , at least none I noticed.
Not sure you can run maf and 2 bar.Maybe that is your stalling problem?
If you are using hp tuners and know how to send me file I can look it over for you.
Hope they are genuine gates. So guess might have to also take mine apart and put in antisieze like Tom said. So the synapse gates can't stick open?
Tial, genuine tial has been around for a long time.I have it on my 97 talon and was going to put one on my 91 race car. No problems on 97 and so far now problems on the 99TT , at least none I noticed.
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Hmm interesting . So yeah big boost leak is going to cause the problem. I plan on going thru my aps and replacing with good quailty silicone and tbolt clamps.
Not sure you can run maf and 2 bar.Maybe that is your stalling problem?
If you are using hp tuners and know how to send me file I can look it over for you.
Hope they are genuine gates. So guess might have to also take mine apart and put in antisieze like Tom said. So the synapse gates can't stick open?
Tial, genuine tial has been around for a long time.I have it on my 97 talon and was going to put one on my 91 race car. No problems on 97 and so far now problems on the 99TT , at least none I noticed.
Not sure you can run maf and 2 bar.Maybe that is your stalling problem?
If you are using hp tuners and know how to send me file I can look it over for you.
Hope they are genuine gates. So guess might have to also take mine apart and put in antisieze like Tom said. So the synapse gates can't stick open?
Tial, genuine tial has been around for a long time.I have it on my 97 talon and was going to put one on my 91 race car. No problems on 97 and so far now problems on the 99TT , at least none I noticed.
Yeah, Im running both the MAF and the 2 bar, I assure you. Many tuners I've heard refer to it as a "Hybrid" tune. I don't tune it, and don't have HPT.