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What is the best header wrap?

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Old May 6, 2010 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by j88l98irocz
Very true, but I would rather accidentally touch hot exhaust that's heat wrapped then coated steel and not wrapped if l have to do something under the hood when the cars up to temp.
Picky picky picky!!! haha... A coated set of headers will be fully touchable within minutes after you shut the car off even IF at full temp. With my drag car I can make a pass pull into my pit walk around my car two times and still burn my hands off... I mean.. lol just messing with you although I can get under the hood after a pass within around 5min give or take and do anything I need without being burnt to a crisp...
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Old May 6, 2010 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by JET-HOT
Im not sure how a wrap will assist in keeping temps down anywhere close to a Ceramic coating. A wrap is not bad but for the most part you will only see around 50-125 degree drops vs. a good ceramic that will reduce temps in the range of 300 degress and in some cases even more!
What about us guys who have rear mount turbo set ups who are trying to keep as much heat as possible in the exhaust?
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Old May 6, 2010 | 06:08 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by mike13
What about us guys who have rear mount turbo set up who are trying to keep as much heat as possible in the exhaust?
That is what the coating does. Keeps the heat within the parts vs. allowing it to soak your engine bay. Most times you will see a little faster spool when you have your parts coated as well as minor hp and torque gains but nothing to write home about per say.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by JET-HOT
Picky picky picky!!! haha... A coated set of headers will be fully touchable within minutes after you shut the car off even IF at full temp. With my drag car I can make a pass pull into my pit walk around my car two times and still burn my hands off... I mean.. lol just messing with you although I can get under the hood after a pass within around 5min give or take and do anything I need without being burnt to a crisp...

Lol I know. I have had plenty of parts jet hot coated and was always very happy with everything. You guys do awesome work! Jet hot+wrap ftw! IMO
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Old May 6, 2010 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by JET-HOT
Most coatings on the market have been race proven... We use ours in Indy, Nascar, NHRA, and even into the Aerospace racing circuit and plunty of others.
Im fully aware of that
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Old May 6, 2010 | 08:36 PM
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While we're on the subject, can JetHot coating be wrapped too?
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Old May 6, 2010 | 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by JET-HOT
Im not sure how a wrap will assist in keeping temps down anywhere close to a Ceramic coating. A wrap is not bad but for the most part you will only see around 50-125 degree drops vs. a good ceramic that will reduce temps in the range of 300 degress and in some cases even more!
i do not know about that, as i mentioned before my turbo down pipe was burning electrical wires that where a foot away, but as soon as i wrapped it, that stopped. i do not know if it was just shitty coating
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Old May 7, 2010 | 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by imma_stocker
While we're on the subject, can JetHot coating be wrapped too?
Can it? Yes... ALTHOUGH it is not something that we recommend or approve of although I have it done on one of my cars. Wrapping a coated header can cause issues so I would to a little research prior to doing so, as well the wrap can cause the coating to breakdown MUCH MUCH sooner than it should as you are unable to car for the coating.

With that said though I do have it done on one of my cars. Even with the coating I was still peeling paint on my hood and finders so I had to do something. This is the part that is NO fun though. Every 2 or 3 months I pull them off and look everything over to make sure I do not have any cracks as well looking for moisture and/or oils that are soaked into the wrap. While I have the wrap off I hit the parts with a little aluminum polish and start that dirty deed of rewrapping the parts. That’s just what I do…. I know of others that never touch there parts again after the coating and wrap and call it a day.
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Old May 7, 2010 | 08:22 AM
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I worked in the aerospace industry for many years and the problem we would see with coated or treated metal and heat insulation is the metal would become brittle. I remember on a brand new Pratt & Whitney engine for a 777 someone marked a engine nozzle with a pencil after about 50hrs flight time the nozzle developed a crack where the carbon residue was from the pencil.
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Old May 7, 2010 | 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by mike13
I worked in the aerospace industry for many years and the problem we would see with coated or treated metal and heat insulation is the metal would become brittle. I remember on a brand new Pratt & Whitney engine for a 777 someone marked a engine nozzle with a pencil after about 50hrs flight time the nozzle developed a crack where the carbon residue was from the pencil.
What type of coating or treatment and what substrates did you see this on?
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Old May 7, 2010 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by JET-HOT
What type of coating or treatment and what substrates did you see this on?
I don't know the coating was all propriotary to the engine manufacturer, the material might have been stainless or iconel.
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Old May 7, 2010 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by mike13
I don't know the coating was all propriotary to the engine manufacturer, the material might have been stainless or iconel.
I am willing to bet that it was on the stainless side of things although don’t know for sure. Based on the little information you can provide I am willing to bet that the coatings are not coatings rather a treated stainless. The pencil had little to do with the crack in the part. Stainless in its self will get very brittle when subjected to high heat the pencil was probably the added stress the part needed to crack. Inconel is the most common parts that we see when it comes to aerospace although it has its draw backs just the same. Aerospace temps vs. Car temps are so extreme on the scale of relative nature that none of this really applies to the automotive world. Although I have seen some cars have the same issue when using stainless headers and yet still rare in itself due to the amount of stainless headers that exist.
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Old May 7, 2010 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 355TurboLT1
Header wrap is gross. Unless its covering uncoated rusty mild steel pipes. Why don't you have them coated. Doesnt look ghetto like wrap. I am just a header wrap hater. The titanium is said to be the best. I have seen it work for a few guys. I wouldnt put it on my lawn mower, but that's me.



I think it looks pretty decent if you get the good stuff... as far as heat goes, definatly works better than any coating i've ever come across. $100 to cover my headers, merge pipe, and 3.5 feet of my downpipe.

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Old May 7, 2010 | 08:04 PM
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you used two 2x50 rolls of titanium warp to cover all that ?
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Old May 7, 2010 | 08:18 PM
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Yeah, that Lava wrap and their turbo blankets are very nice. Seems more like 200 feet to me though. I used 70ft of regular wrap on just my merge pipe.
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Old Jun 26, 2013 | 01:04 PM
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What is the general consensus nowadays, will wrapping stainless exhaust promote rusting considerably, on a daily-driven turbo car?
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Old Jun 26, 2013 | 01:39 PM
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I used DEI titanium wrap, my underhood temps still seem stupidly hot but I think that may just be me getting used to this turbocharged thing.
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Old Jun 26, 2013 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Troy5061
I used DEI titanium wrap, my underhood temps still seem stupidly hot but I think that may just be me getting used to this turbocharged thing.
This is also what I'm going to use. Then I was going to jet coat my manifolds.
I don't think it looks too bad. As long as it works, that's all that matters!
This is DEI's titanium wrap which doesn't use a coating. Just wrap it and your done.
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 12:43 AM
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Has anyone tried spraying their pipes with Copper RTV silicone Spray-A-Gasket? Or better yet, sprayed it and then wrapping it afterwards?

I wonder how effective a 1mm coating of Copper Spray-A-Gasket would hold the heat in?
Thoughts?
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