What is the best header wrap?
#21
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Picky picky picky!!! haha... A coated set of headers will be fully touchable within minutes after you shut the car off even IF at full temp. With my drag car I can make a pass pull into my pit walk around my car two times and still burn my hands off... I mean.. lol just messing with you although I can get under the hood after a pass within around 5min give or take and do anything I need without being burnt to a crisp...
#22
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Im not sure how a wrap will assist in keeping temps down anywhere close to a Ceramic coating. A wrap is not bad but for the most part you will only see around 50-125 degree drops vs. a good ceramic that will reduce temps in the range of 300 degress and in some cases even more!
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That is what the coating does. Keeps the heat within the parts vs. allowing it to soak your engine bay. Most times you will see a little faster spool when you have your parts coated as well as minor hp and torque gains but nothing to write home about per say.
#24
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Picky picky picky!!! haha... A coated set of headers will be fully touchable within minutes after you shut the car off even IF at full temp. With my drag car I can make a pass pull into my pit walk around my car two times and still burn my hands off... I mean.. lol just messing with you although I can get under the hood after a pass within around 5min give or take and do anything I need without being burnt to a crisp...
Lol I know. I have had plenty of parts jet hot coated and was always very happy with everything. You guys do awesome work! Jet hot+wrap ftw! IMO
#27
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Im not sure how a wrap will assist in keeping temps down anywhere close to a Ceramic coating. A wrap is not bad but for the most part you will only see around 50-125 degree drops vs. a good ceramic that will reduce temps in the range of 300 degress and in some cases even more!
#28
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Can it? Yes... ALTHOUGH it is not something that we recommend or approve of although I have it done on one of my cars. Wrapping a coated header can cause issues so I would to a little research prior to doing so, as well the wrap can cause the coating to breakdown MUCH MUCH sooner than it should as you are unable to car for the coating.
With that said though I do have it done on one of my cars. Even with the coating I was still peeling paint on my hood and finders so I had to do something. This is the part that is NO fun though. Every 2 or 3 months I pull them off and look everything over to make sure I do not have any cracks as well looking for moisture and/or oils that are soaked into the wrap. While I have the wrap off I hit the parts with a little aluminum polish and start that dirty deed of rewrapping the parts. That’s just what I do…. I know of others that never touch there parts again after the coating and wrap and call it a day.
With that said though I do have it done on one of my cars. Even with the coating I was still peeling paint on my hood and finders so I had to do something. This is the part that is NO fun though. Every 2 or 3 months I pull them off and look everything over to make sure I do not have any cracks as well looking for moisture and/or oils that are soaked into the wrap. While I have the wrap off I hit the parts with a little aluminum polish and start that dirty deed of rewrapping the parts. That’s just what I do…. I know of others that never touch there parts again after the coating and wrap and call it a day.
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I worked in the aerospace industry for many years and the problem we would see with coated or treated metal and heat insulation is the metal would become brittle. I remember on a brand new Pratt & Whitney engine for a 777 someone marked a engine nozzle with a pencil after about 50hrs flight time the nozzle developed a crack where the carbon residue was from the pencil.
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I worked in the aerospace industry for many years and the problem we would see with coated or treated metal and heat insulation is the metal would become brittle. I remember on a brand new Pratt & Whitney engine for a 777 someone marked a engine nozzle with a pencil after about 50hrs flight time the nozzle developed a crack where the carbon residue was from the pencil.
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I am willing to bet that it was on the stainless side of things although don’t know for sure. Based on the little information you can provide I am willing to bet that the coatings are not coatings rather a treated stainless. The pencil had little to do with the crack in the part. Stainless in its self will get very brittle when subjected to high heat the pencil was probably the added stress the part needed to crack. Inconel is the most common parts that we see when it comes to aerospace although it has its draw backs just the same. Aerospace temps vs. Car temps are so extreme on the scale of relative nature that none of this really applies to the automotive world. Although I have seen some cars have the same issue when using stainless headers and yet still rare in itself due to the amount of stainless headers that exist.
#33
Header wrap is gross. Unless its covering uncoated rusty mild steel pipes. Why don't you have them coated. Doesnt look ghetto like wrap. I am just a header wrap hater. The titanium is said to be the best. I have seen it work for a few guys. I wouldnt put it on my lawn mower, but that's me.
I think it looks pretty decent if you get the good stuff... as far as heat goes, definatly works better than any coating i've ever come across. $100 to cover my headers, merge pipe, and 3.5 feet of my downpipe.
#38
I don't think it looks too bad. As long as it works, that's all that matters!
This is DEI's titanium wrap which doesn't use a coating. Just wrap it and your done.
#39
TECH Resident
Has anyone tried spraying their pipes with Copper RTV silicone Spray-A-Gasket? Or better yet, sprayed it and then wrapping it afterwards?
I wonder how effective a 1mm coating of Copper Spray-A-Gasket would hold the heat in?
Thoughts?
I wonder how effective a 1mm coating of Copper Spray-A-Gasket would hold the heat in?
Thoughts?