I'm trailoring my car to get dyno'd in 2 weeks. I have a built ls2, t76. I'm just wondering what are things that have prevented people on their first pulls from getting a successful tune. I dont want to drive 8 hours then have something stupid go wrong that's not fixable while on the dyno.

I have my crank pinned, clamped all of my vacuum hoses, no noticeable leaks in the oil lines. Anything else I should double and tripple check to make sure all goes well.

 

Bring plenty of BR7EF spark plugs, Race Gas, and gloves. Its hot changing plugs after a couple of pulls.

 

If you can get a base tune good enough to test the car on, it is nice to know the wastegate and positioning holds the correct boost. Maybe even start the car on stock injectors or whatever combo ran before? If it did that is.

 

Just go over everything twice and make sure your hose clamps are tight and will not blow off under boost. Keep in mind, The tuner should actually worry about the drivability tuning and by driving the car around on the street first and then only use the dyno for WOT pulls. Everything else should be taken care of on the street 1st.! Dyno last.

 

Nail on the head...

 

The things I seem to read the most are not enough injector and the clutch wouldn't hold.

 

Good to know how its supposed to be done

 

Disagree.

Why try to drive all over on the street to build an entire VE table?

I run the car on the dyno using the brake so I can hit all load cells up to 100kpa then tune for every boost setting, then fine tune ve/driveability on the road.

 

^^ Agreed with 8 - But a lot of places don't opt for the brake... pricey option but well worth it.

 

If all the shops had a loaded dyno then sure, but most do not. It's not hard at all to get the VE close on the original startup and then do the street driving for corrections. Hell, I can be within 10% by the time the car was loaded up on the dyno and strapped down for some pulls. I just want to make sure that this guy is getting a full tune instead of some WOT pulls on the dyno, and then the tuner saying its tuned when its not!

 

You can even do that on the street similar to brake boosting right? Thats a pretty good idea to get all the cells I missed.

 

I can understand if you want the guy to get a full tune, my point is that can be accomplished correctly in more than one manner. I don't want someone showing up here for a tune and thinking what the hell is going on if I start out by putting the car on the dyno.

If I am tuning ve with RTT I'm certainly not going to be able to drive and tune at the same time nor do I want to try and communicate to a driver exactly what I want him to do, or keep finding spots to drive and pull over to re-flash.

I don't have a load bearing dyno either but I manipulate the brake to be able to hit all possible load cells.

 

Sure if you have enough road and can watch the histogram as your driving. I pull it through each load cell of every column at a slow/steady pace to get the best possible data.

 

I understand. Down here in Gawrga we have alot of long roads and hills and that makes street tuning alot easier than alot of other places.LOL! When I am tuning, no customers ride along. Its takes twice as long.LOL!

 

If you bring a video camera, make sure you also bring earplugs. Learned that one the hard way. If you don't have a free wideband bungs in your exhaust you should add one for the dyno wideband sensor. The closer the sensor is to the engine the more accurate it is.

Getting as much done on the street first is better for me, as dyno shops charge by the hour. If I had access to free dyno time I'd use it just for safety. Anybody whose ever started a scan while driving knows what I'm talking about.

 

here was my first dyno experience... newb mistakes... trailored the car there, and melted a few plug wires on the dyno. fixed that, and then the turbo melted through the high side of the power steering line and caught the engine bay on fire. lol we got a new shorter belt to bypass the PS pump only to realize i had a few exhaust leaks that were messing up the wideband reading. i then towed it back home to fix all the problems...

the reason i couldnt check anything, was that i changed injectors and went to a SD tune, so i couldnt ever start it to check for problems.

the next time i brought spare parts - full wire set, spare coils & plugs, extra fluids, extra wastegate springs, etc.... and everything went great!

 

I trailored mine to have it dynoed last summer which was 3 hours away from me and thank god i did LOL My dam alternater went on the dyno and the tunner guy told me he's seen it more then a few times with the GM's

 

Agree here too!