Procharged Silverado 4.8.. Part 2. Replacing the things i cheaped on.
#43
Launching!
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Was on a road trip to a family reunion in the middle of nowheres. Was running on empty, and it was the first station i had seen in a good 30 mins, And, the gps didnt have a town for the next 60 miles. So, i took what i could get. lol. Whatever broke, broke around the time i got to town, and, on the happy side, it was able to limp itself home.
#44
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Somebody ran away with the keys to the shop today. So, just ended up pulling off the front clip with a pair of vice grips.... Will finish yanking the old engine out tommorow.
#45
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Anybody want some boat anchors?
So, after busting a few knuckles, and disconnecting all 25 ground wires..... The engine came out.
So, after doing this..... I had to wonder how badly the engine was damaged....
That didnt look too bad....
Neither did these two...
Oh, damn.
Heads are nice anchors now...
And, tommorow, ill go powerwash the damn oil, grease, and dirt out of the engine bay....
So, after doing this..... I had to wonder how badly the engine was damaged....
That didnt look too bad....
Neither did these two...
Oh, damn.
Heads are nice anchors now...
And, tommorow, ill go powerwash the damn oil, grease, and dirt out of the engine bay....
#46
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Looong day in the shop.
Swapped all the old to the new.
Mounted meth injection.
Tackled some wiring.
Bolted tranny to engine, to find out flexplate is wrong.
Put big bag over engine.
Gonna drop the engine in by itself tommorow, and get lost in a jungle of wiring and cables, and hook a laptop up to the thing and hopefully get it to start running.
And... Does anybody know a good place to get a certain sized belt?
Due to the fact that no factory vehicle has a over sized harmonic balencer and procharger, Its rather hard to find a 8 ribbed belt with the proper size.
And for a question....
Spool the 12bolt, or go for a 9in?
Swapped all the old to the new.
Mounted meth injection.
Tackled some wiring.
Bolted tranny to engine, to find out flexplate is wrong.
Put big bag over engine.
Gonna drop the engine in by itself tommorow, and get lost in a jungle of wiring and cables, and hook a laptop up to the thing and hopefully get it to start running.
And... Does anybody know a good place to get a certain sized belt?
Due to the fact that no factory vehicle has a over sized harmonic balencer and procharger, Its rather hard to find a 8 ribbed belt with the proper size.
And for a question....
Spool the 12bolt, or go for a 9in?
#47
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Thanks for the calls this morning.
I'd spool the 12 bolt, it should handle your combination. Bob
I'd spool the 12 bolt, it should handle your combination. Bob
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#48
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Once my bank starts to refill, I might be looking at ya for something bigger then this P1SC, I think its gonna choke all of these inches.
Anyways. Spent a nice day in the shop. Engine is mounted, just need a belt. All of the MAIN wiring is done.
Need to:
1. Wire the damn harness for the TCI 6x because TCI did not include a easy to use plugin to talk to the factory pcm.
2. Wait for TCI to send the flexplate, because, TCI 6x does not fit the factory 4.8/5.3/6.0 flexplate.
3. Alchy injection is mounted. Need to run the wiring.
4. Wire up all of the fuel pressure / wide band gauges.
5. Swim in a ocean of wiring and start soldering / heat shinking stuff for a good while to reduce the mess of wiring.
6. Mount the TCI shifter.
7. There is a lot of crap on this list that has to do with TCI.
8. Wait for the inner-head studs(the ones next to the intake)
Have a good while before its 100%, because, its going to take TCI a while to send out the proper flexplate. Might as well goto a local machine shop and just ask them to make me a new one.
Anyways, will prob start it up for the first time oh.. tommorow. And then spend a day playing in hp tuners to get the tune straight.
#50
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Oh.... 390ci, blown, meth inj, tci 6x, silverado.... Pics included. Vids soon.
Anyways. There is most of the progress as of LAST night.
Today(its 12:03am)
Gonna run to the parts store, pick up the proper belt, grab some heat shrinking, some more solder, and im going to start knocking out the rat nest of wiring..........
Its a huge rat next of stuff right now, But, I am pretty good at the electrical side of things, so, i should be able to knock it out no problem.
And personal achivement:
I reused a ferret... or whatever those tube-fitting things are called. Not quite sure if it was worth the 50 cents saved, after sanding, drilling, and wasting about 30 minutes of time on the thing.
Not looking foward to pulling the intake back off after I got all of the wiring up top done, But, I noticed the inner-head studs had a few issues,
Frasier @ AES was extremely helpful with the issue and sent out a priority-next day mail to fix the issue. Thanks! Not to mention, taking the time to answer my phone calls despite being a very busy guy. I am quite amazed he was even awake to email me a spec sheet tonight, no less at 12am! Great guy to deal with, I feel the combination he put together for me should be a lot of fun.
And thanks to BOB @ brute speed for a few anwsers. I kind of wish I ordered my procharger from him back in the day, But, oh well. Cannot undo the past. Not to mention, Back when I ordered all of this, I was orignally going to Order a F1-A and just use a over-sized pully to control the pressure..... Until i was able to upgrade to this nice piece of iron and aluminum I am using now.
And the hell with everybody @ TCI for making a 6000$ transmission and not including a flexplate that fits. AND, Not making a simple harness that plugins into something or piggybacks to the factory pcm. Guess ill have to start cutting/soldering/splicing wires....... Blah.
Edit:
Found a vid of the cam. Gonna sound pretty sexy. Hopefully, ill have a similar video uploaded very soon.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KquzBSUA0Is
And, for a quick question:
The steam ports.
I notice a lot of the builds on here have x-over steamport setups, And, even on a stock 5.3 I looked at, it had a x-over tube. On the ones I recycled from the 4.8, The back two pretty much function as plugs, while the front two are connected.
Will this be a issue at all for NOW?
Basically, until I start raking in a lot of $$$ to finish everything the right way, the engine is just gonna be running on engine alone. The P1 will just make some nice noise to complement it. Ima just leave the vacume line off for now. Don't have the fuel pump to support must of anything yet. And, the 48 lb/hr injectors are going to be small for the final result.
And, a few more things, My fuel system...... Is one way, there is no return line / regulator on the intake, This seems to sound like something that I should upgrade when I start pushing out the big numbers in the future. Comments / suggestions / advice?
Also, Fuel pressure gauge, Is it ok to remove the valve from the pressure release valve on the fuel rails and use a coupler to put the fuel pressure sensor there? OR, just put a new fuel rail earlier on my list, along with a regulated / return style fuel system.
Due to the issues / problems with the earlier setup, I am trying to take every precaution possible to ensure if something breaks, It is because I was doing something very stupid.
I am using hobbs switches for fuel pressure, Autometer wideband / fuel / pressure gauges.....
Using meth injection for keeping the intake charge nice and cool(Not going to use it to pickup power or bandaid my fuel system, Just going to use it to cool off the air charge.....)
Anyways, if anybody has any ides or suggestions to save money / make power / save parts time and labor, please tell.
This is going to be a very big learning experience after putting everything together, I plan on doing the majority of the tuning myself through trial, error, and reading a lot of information from the internet. I have the wide bands for both sides as well to help in the tuning process.
Last thing. For the end goal, Is the best option a 3 bar MAP sensor from a cobalt SS and eliminate MAF completely, Or use MAF and use VE/MAP sensors for the rest of the range the PCM cannot work with.
It makes me kind of sad there are no decent tuners in the tulsa, ok area, since, Ed wright sold his dyno...... before anybody throws that in. Although, the guy could prob give some good advice.
Today(its 12:03am)
Gonna run to the parts store, pick up the proper belt, grab some heat shrinking, some more solder, and im going to start knocking out the rat nest of wiring..........
Its a huge rat next of stuff right now, But, I am pretty good at the electrical side of things, so, i should be able to knock it out no problem.
And personal achivement:
I reused a ferret... or whatever those tube-fitting things are called. Not quite sure if it was worth the 50 cents saved, after sanding, drilling, and wasting about 30 minutes of time on the thing.
Not looking foward to pulling the intake back off after I got all of the wiring up top done, But, I noticed the inner-head studs had a few issues,
Frasier @ AES was extremely helpful with the issue and sent out a priority-next day mail to fix the issue. Thanks! Not to mention, taking the time to answer my phone calls despite being a very busy guy. I am quite amazed he was even awake to email me a spec sheet tonight, no less at 12am! Great guy to deal with, I feel the combination he put together for me should be a lot of fun.
And thanks to BOB @ brute speed for a few anwsers. I kind of wish I ordered my procharger from him back in the day, But, oh well. Cannot undo the past. Not to mention, Back when I ordered all of this, I was orignally going to Order a F1-A and just use a over-sized pully to control the pressure..... Until i was able to upgrade to this nice piece of iron and aluminum I am using now.
And the hell with everybody @ TCI for making a 6000$ transmission and not including a flexplate that fits. AND, Not making a simple harness that plugins into something or piggybacks to the factory pcm. Guess ill have to start cutting/soldering/splicing wires....... Blah.
Edit:
Found a vid of the cam. Gonna sound pretty sexy. Hopefully, ill have a similar video uploaded very soon.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KquzBSUA0Is
And, for a quick question:
The steam ports.
I notice a lot of the builds on here have x-over steamport setups, And, even on a stock 5.3 I looked at, it had a x-over tube. On the ones I recycled from the 4.8, The back two pretty much function as plugs, while the front two are connected.
Will this be a issue at all for NOW?
Basically, until I start raking in a lot of $$$ to finish everything the right way, the engine is just gonna be running on engine alone. The P1 will just make some nice noise to complement it. Ima just leave the vacume line off for now. Don't have the fuel pump to support must of anything yet. And, the 48 lb/hr injectors are going to be small for the final result.
And, a few more things, My fuel system...... Is one way, there is no return line / regulator on the intake, This seems to sound like something that I should upgrade when I start pushing out the big numbers in the future. Comments / suggestions / advice?
Also, Fuel pressure gauge, Is it ok to remove the valve from the pressure release valve on the fuel rails and use a coupler to put the fuel pressure sensor there? OR, just put a new fuel rail earlier on my list, along with a regulated / return style fuel system.
Due to the issues / problems with the earlier setup, I am trying to take every precaution possible to ensure if something breaks, It is because I was doing something very stupid.
I am using hobbs switches for fuel pressure, Autometer wideband / fuel / pressure gauges.....
Using meth injection for keeping the intake charge nice and cool(Not going to use it to pickup power or bandaid my fuel system, Just going to use it to cool off the air charge.....)
Anyways, if anybody has any ides or suggestions to save money / make power / save parts time and labor, please tell.
This is going to be a very big learning experience after putting everything together, I plan on doing the majority of the tuning myself through trial, error, and reading a lot of information from the internet. I have the wide bands for both sides as well to help in the tuning process.
Last thing. For the end goal, Is the best option a 3 bar MAP sensor from a cobalt SS and eliminate MAF completely, Or use MAF and use VE/MAP sensors for the rest of the range the PCM cannot work with.
It makes me kind of sad there are no decent tuners in the tulsa, ok area, since, Ed wright sold his dyno...... before anybody throws that in. Although, the guy could prob give some good advice.
Last edited by Ericmck2000; 03-14-2012 at 02:12 AM.
#51
Launching!
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First start.
Video of first start.
Just a tad rich, and the tune for it... is nonexistent.
But, it fired right up. 60 psi oil pressure. PCM is locked in open loop with bad tables.
#52
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Its not dead yet. More Progress
So, its been busy for the last few years. I got around to dragging the truck to my new garage, and I have started working on this project again.
I decided to gut out the interior of the truck, and remove the entire factory wiring harness and replace it with a Holly ECU after some research. I think for the long term goals, this will work better. For now, I am working on a little bit of light weight reduction. Here is the progress:
Stripped out the interior. Removed everything but the seats and cup holders.
I will be installing a cage in here soon.
This week, I will strip the entire harness from under the hood. Monday, I will be ordering a new harness for the holley ECU.
After removing or relocating everything, there will be plenty of room for a new turbo.
Before I gutted the inside, and butchered the wiring harness... It did start and run.
I decided to gut out the interior of the truck, and remove the entire factory wiring harness and replace it with a Holly ECU after some research. I think for the long term goals, this will work better. For now, I am working on a little bit of light weight reduction. Here is the progress:
Stripped out the interior. Removed everything but the seats and cup holders.
I will be installing a cage in here soon.
This week, I will strip the entire harness from under the hood. Monday, I will be ordering a new harness for the holley ECU.
After removing or relocating everything, there will be plenty of room for a new turbo.
Before I gutted the inside, and butchered the wiring harness... It did start and run.
#53
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So, started work on the new wiring harness...
Last month, I gutted the entire interior, and removed the entire factory harness, minus the bundle going to the taillights, and headlights.
Right now, I am laying out the components on a sheet of aluminum plate, which will be mounted under the dash(Which will likely be made of aluminum sheet).
^ The above fusebox / relay box holds 10 mini-relays, as well as 40 mini fuses. This should be more then sufficient for my needs. It is also fully customizable AND waterproof. As well, there is a 100amp circuit breaker.
When I get around to ordering the Holley Dominator ECU, it will fit on the board as well. I already have all of the associated harnesses to run both the holley ECU, and the fast TCU.
Ordered a few spools of wire for a pretty good price...
So, I have 20ga for the relay trigger wire, and components that do not need much power... And 12ga for high power components such as headlights, etc.
And, since I want a very professional looking job, Here is a load of components to do it right.
Will post as progress happens.
Also-
For giggles, does anybody want a shredded factory harness, or ECM/PCM?
The ECM was fully functional before it was removed. If interested, pm a offer.
Last month, I gutted the entire interior, and removed the entire factory harness, minus the bundle going to the taillights, and headlights.
Right now, I am laying out the components on a sheet of aluminum plate, which will be mounted under the dash(Which will likely be made of aluminum sheet).
^ The above fusebox / relay box holds 10 mini-relays, as well as 40 mini fuses. This should be more then sufficient for my needs. It is also fully customizable AND waterproof. As well, there is a 100amp circuit breaker.
When I get around to ordering the Holley Dominator ECU, it will fit on the board as well. I already have all of the associated harnesses to run both the holley ECU, and the fast TCU.
Ordered a few spools of wire for a pretty good price...
So, I have 20ga for the relay trigger wire, and components that do not need much power... And 12ga for high power components such as headlights, etc.
And, since I want a very professional looking job, Here is a load of components to do it right.
Will post as progress happens.
Also-
For giggles, does anybody want a shredded factory harness, or ECM/PCM?
The ECM was fully functional before it was removed. If interested, pm a offer.
#54
Launching!
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So, A update on this project, since, it has been moving pretty slowly up until now.
The interior is almost done. I will be keeping it pretty simple and basic. I enjoy being able to hear some noise.
Since, I sold the procharger, I picked up a happy replacement.
And, a replacement for the factory intake manifold, stocked with ID1000s.
It should be street-worthy soon. I will post some more pictures as they come in.
The interior is almost done. I will be keeping it pretty simple and basic. I enjoy being able to hear some noise.
Since, I sold the procharger, I picked up a happy replacement.
And, a replacement for the factory intake manifold, stocked with ID1000s.
It should be street-worthy soon. I will post some more pictures as they come in.
#58
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Looks like a great running truck! Hopefully when the fuel pump crapped out on you it didn't lean the motor out. Bob
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ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
#59
Launching!
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I have the Holley set to kill spark in the event of lost fuel pressure, lean-conditions in boost, high coolant, low oil... etc. One of the reasons I went with Holley EFI.
#60
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Good deal, that's great to see. Bob
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E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
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PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
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