can a forged 346 or a forged 370 handle more boost?
#21
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100 pounds is a tenth roughly in the quartermile. Most guys running FI builds have more power than they can hook so bit of extra weight is pretty meaningless. My 99TT is a heavy pig haven't weighed it yet but likely 4200 with me in maybe more But pretty confident have enough power potential to turn some really good times. If it was a pure race car then might give a damn about every pound of weight. But it isn't.
And you can buy bmr or similar lighter kmember and get rid of a bit of weight that the iron block has added.
But a forged 346 or ls2 are nice options too.
And you can buy bmr or similar lighter kmember and get rid of a bit of weight that the iron block has added.
But a forged 346 or ls2 are nice options too.
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I can speak with first hand experiance. My 346 dynoed 753rwhp @ 14psi through a th400 and dana 60. It lasted 2000 miles and I'm now building a new motor. I will pull the caps off tomorrow, but it looks like It the main caps were flexing and taking out the main bearings. I'm currently building a 402 Iron block. The 100lb weight penalty can be made up for with about 1/2 a pound of boost.
Frank
Frank
#24
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I can speak with first hand experiance. My 346 dynoed 753rwhp @ 14psi through a th400 and dana 60. It lasted 2000 miles and I'm now building a new motor. I will pull the caps off tomorrow, but it looks like It the main caps were flexing and taking out the main bearings. I'm currently building a 402 Iron block. The 100lb weight penalty can be made up for with about 1/2 a pound of boost.
Frank
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#25
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He doesn't need a ERL block to get 7-800. A 347 or a ls2 block will meet his goals. If I was paying for a new engine a ls2 would be what I would want in this case. I have a 347 because i got it cheap.
As far as 100 lbs being a tenth.......thats not really true. It's a tenth by calculation, but when the 100 lbs is on the front and you can't hook nearly as well because of it, then it grows into more time than that.
As far as 100 lbs being a tenth.......thats not really true. It's a tenth by calculation, but when the 100 lbs is on the front and you can't hook nearly as well because of it, then it grows into more time than that.
#26
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He doesn't need a ERL block to get 7-800. A 347 or a ls2 block will meet his goals. If I was paying for a new engine a ls2 would be what I would want in this case. I have a 347 because i got it cheap.
As far as 100 lbs being a tenth.......thats not really true. It's a tenth by calculation, but when the 100 lbs is on the front and you can't hook nearly as well because of it, then it grows into more time than that.
As far as 100 lbs being a tenth.......thats not really true. It's a tenth by calculation, but when the 100 lbs is on the front and you can't hook nearly as well because of it, then it grows into more time than that.
So for a street car does it really matter if person goes a couple tenths slower
because of the iron block in front. There are tons of iron block cars at our local track they seem to do just fine. Not f body iron blocks talking just most of the race cars out there the ones doing 8s and 9s.Fact my mechanic buddy
has two of them. Old school sure. But hard to argue with success.
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That depends on what the op is really wanting the car for. It isn't gonna matter as much if it is going to be a street car that is going to go to the track a few times a year, but if he is going to really concentrate on getting the best time at the track, then the weight is more of an issue.
There is nothing wrong with an iron block, but I want to squeeze every inch out of my car at the track. I'm not saying that the car won't work with the extra weight, but it would work better without it.
There is nothing wrong with an iron block, but I want to squeeze every inch out of my car at the track. I'm not saying that the car won't work with the extra weight, but it would work better without it.
#29
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He doesn't need a ERL block to get 7-800. A 347 or a ls2 block will meet his goals. If I was paying for a new engine a ls2 would be what I would want in this case. I have a 347 because i got it cheap.
As far as 100 lbs being a tenth.......thats not really true. It's a tenth by calculation, but when the 100 lbs is on the front and you can't hook nearly as well because of it, then it grows into more time than that.
As far as 100 lbs being a tenth.......thats not really true. It's a tenth by calculation, but when the 100 lbs is on the front and you can't hook nearly as well because of it, then it grows into more time than that.
Last edited by 355TurboLT1; 06-24-2010 at 02:36 AM.
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Frank
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Get a iron block because it is cheaper, it will handle a lot of power now and in the future. As for the added weight if its even that big of a deal to you (I believe the iron block is 77lbs heavier) Get a BMR or such K member, A-arms (good parts to have anyways)...sit in a sona and take a **** and you'll drop the weight lol
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Get a iron block because it is cheaper, it will handle a lot of power now and in the future. As for the added weight if its even that big of a deal to you (I believe the iron block is 77lbs heavier) Get a BMR or such K member, A-arms (good parts to have anyways)...sit in a sona and take a **** and you'll drop the weight lol
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I have an iron 370 in my car. TH400, 9", pt88 turbo. I went 9.39@144 with the car nosing over on the big end HARD. Once I get that figured out I don't see a problem running in the high 8's. I have basically a full weight car too. It also sees at least 80% street duty.
I've broken 2 aluminum motors, they could have been my fault (pump gas) but I still broke them. This motor has been in my car for over a year without a problem. *knock on wood*
I say go with the iron block.
I've broken 2 aluminum motors, they could have been my fault (pump gas) but I still broke them. This motor has been in my car for over a year without a problem. *knock on wood*
I say go with the iron block.
#36
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I have an iron 370 in my car. TH400, 9", pt88 turbo. I went 9.39@144 with the car nosing over on the big end HARD. Once I get that figured out I don't see a problem running in the high 8's. I have basically a full weight car too. It also sees at least 80% street duty.
I've broken 2 aluminum motors, they could have been my fault (pump gas) but I still broke them. This motor has been in my car for over a year without a problem. *knock on wood*
I say go with the iron block.
I've broken 2 aluminum motors, they could have been my fault (pump gas) but I still broke them. This motor has been in my car for over a year without a problem. *knock on wood*
I say go with the iron block.
#37
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I have an iron 370 in my car. TH400, 9", pt88 turbo. I went 9.39@144 with the car nosing over on the big end HARD. Once I get that figured out I don't see a problem running in the high 8's. I have basically a full weight car too. It also sees at least 80% street duty.
I've broken 2 aluminum motors, they could have been my fault (pump gas) but I still broke them. This motor has been in my car for over a year without a problem. *knock on wood*
I say go with the iron block.
I've broken 2 aluminum motors, they could have been my fault (pump gas) but I still broke them. This motor has been in my car for over a year without a problem. *knock on wood*
I say go with the iron block.
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#39
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No offense, but Mightymouse who happens to have the same ERL block as me is running faster than both cobrakiller and TRMIN8R and has had zero block related issues in the past few years. I'm not saying the superdeck is needed in every instance, but it is surely stronger than a iron 6.0 4 bolt block.
And when we talk aluminum motors we need to not get them (LS1,LS2,LS3.....) confused with ERL's rendition of these original designs. They re-engineer these things from the ground up. They can no longer be compared. And for what application this will be in the 6.0 4 bolt will do just fine. But lets face it, once we get a taste of this stuff we end up wanting more. Nature of the FI game.
And when we talk aluminum motors we need to not get them (LS1,LS2,LS3.....) confused with ERL's rendition of these original designs. They re-engineer these things from the ground up. They can no longer be compared. And for what application this will be in the 6.0 4 bolt will do just fine. But lets face it, once we get a taste of this stuff we end up wanting more. Nature of the FI game.
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No offense, but Mightymouse who happens to have the same ERL block as me is running faster than both cobrakiller and TRMIN8R and has had zero block related issues in the past few years. I'm not saying the superdeck is needed in every instance, but it is surely stronger than a iron 6.0 4 bolt block.
And when we talk aluminum motors we need to not get them (LS1,LS2,LS3.....) confused with ERL's rendition of these original designs. They re-engineer these things from the ground up. They can no longer be compared. And for what application this will be in the 6.0 4 bolt will do just fine. But lets face it, once we get a taste of this stuff we end up wanting more. Nature of the FI game.
And when we talk aluminum motors we need to not get them (LS1,LS2,LS3.....) confused with ERL's rendition of these original designs. They re-engineer these things from the ground up. They can no longer be compared. And for what application this will be in the 6.0 4 bolt will do just fine. But lets face it, once we get a taste of this stuff we end up wanting more. Nature of the FI game.
In my opinion, I would get a vendor on the site, order a nice 370 for 3-3600 for the shortblock and call it a day. It'll make all the power you'll need