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can a forged 346 or a forged 370 handle more boost?

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Old 06-23-2010, 07:36 PM
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100 pounds is a tenth roughly in the quartermile. Most guys running FI builds have more power than they can hook so bit of extra weight is pretty meaningless. My 99TT is a heavy pig haven't weighed it yet but likely 4200 with me in maybe more But pretty confident have enough power potential to turn some really good times. If it was a pure race car then might give a damn about every pound of weight. But it isn't.
And you can buy bmr or similar lighter kmember and get rid of a bit of weight that the iron block has added.
But a forged 346 or ls2 are nice options too.
Old 06-23-2010, 08:22 PM
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I can speak with first hand experiance. My 346 dynoed 753rwhp @ 14psi through a th400 and dana 60. It lasted 2000 miles and I'm now building a new motor. I will pull the caps off tomorrow, but it looks like It the main caps were flexing and taking out the main bearings. I'm currently building a 402 Iron block. The 100lb weight penalty can be made up for with about 1/2 a pound of boost.

Frank
Old 06-23-2010, 08:40 PM
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but a 427 lsx 94mm turbo just rolls off the toung nice lmao!
Old 06-23-2010, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Boosted One
I can speak with first hand experiance. My 346 dynoed 753rwhp @ 14psi through a th400 and dana 60. It lasted 2000 miles and I'm now building a new motor. I will pull the caps off tomorrow, but it looks like It the main caps were flexing and taking out the main bearings. I'm currently building a 402 Iron block. The 100lb weight penalty can be made up for with about 1/2 a pound of boost.

Frank
An ERL Superdeck 1 will solve that problem and be stronger than a iron block. Personally I would rather cut the weight. Quite a few guys approaching 2000 hp+(ohio boys) and running these blocks. I just think iron is old school. To each their own I guess.
Old 06-23-2010, 09:41 PM
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He doesn't need a ERL block to get 7-800. A 347 or a ls2 block will meet his goals. If I was paying for a new engine a ls2 would be what I would want in this case. I have a 347 because i got it cheap.


As far as 100 lbs being a tenth.......thats not really true. It's a tenth by calculation, but when the 100 lbs is on the front and you can't hook nearly as well because of it, then it grows into more time than that.
Old 06-23-2010, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by bluehawk2
He doesn't need a ERL block to get 7-800. A 347 or a ls2 block will meet his goals. If I was paying for a new engine a ls2 would be what I would want in this case. I have a 347 because i got it cheap.


As far as 100 lbs being a tenth.......thats not really true. It's a tenth by calculation, but when the 100 lbs is on the front and you can't hook nearly as well because of it, then it grows into more time than that.
Bluehawk again are we talking pure drag car or what. If you go under 10.0 on our local NHRA track you need rollcage, medical,parachute..all that crap.
So for a street car does it really matter if person goes a couple tenths slower
because of the iron block in front. There are tons of iron block cars at our local track they seem to do just fine. Not f body iron blocks talking just most of the race cars out there the ones doing 8s and 9s.Fact my mechanic buddy
has two of them. Old school sure. But hard to argue with success.
Old 06-23-2010, 10:17 PM
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That depends on what the op is really wanting the car for. It isn't gonna matter as much if it is going to be a street car that is going to go to the track a few times a year, but if he is going to really concentrate on getting the best time at the track, then the weight is more of an issue.

There is nothing wrong with an iron block, but I want to squeeze every inch out of my car at the track. I'm not saying that the car won't work with the extra weight, but it would work better without it.
Old 06-23-2010, 10:19 PM
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I see now that his car is a 6-speed, so an iron block wouldn't be that big of a deal.
Old 06-24-2010, 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by bluehawk2
He doesn't need a ERL block to get 7-800. A 347 or a ls2 block will meet his goals. If I was paying for a new engine a ls2 would be what I would want in this case. I have a 347 because i got it cheap.


As far as 100 lbs being a tenth.......thats not really true. It's a tenth by calculation, but when the 100 lbs is on the front and you can't hook nearly as well because of it, then it grows into more time than that.
If you have a turbo setup and are at 800hp you will likely want more. Build it right the first time. If you want things to break get, a plain jane LS1 block. You will pay for it three times when you could have done it right from the start. At a bare mimimum he needs a LS2 with billet doweled caps. I would have the block re sleeved as well. ERL can do both of these things if he decided he had no need for the Superdeck system. This would be due to him being happy staying at around his current power level. And this is coming from a guy who happens to own an ERL LS2 with the superdeck I and who knows quite a bit about their product. But thanks for your expert opinion on the topic!

Last edited by 355TurboLT1; 06-24-2010 at 02:36 AM.
Old 06-24-2010, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 355TurboLT1
An ERL Superdeck 1 will solve that problem and be stronger than a iron block. Personally I would rather cut the weight. Quite a few guys approaching 2000 hp+(ohio boys) and running these blocks. I just think iron is old school. To each their own I guess.
I'm already making more power than I can use. I'm not sure I see how having 75lbs less on the front is going to be worth the extra cost. A little more boost and you'll forget all about the added weight. I have $700 in a new block. That's less than the core charge at ERL.

Frank
Old 06-24-2010, 09:56 AM
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You were right MY99TAWS6, this topic always heats up
Old 06-24-2010, 01:28 PM
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Get a iron block because it is cheaper, it will handle a lot of power now and in the future. As for the added weight if its even that big of a deal to you (I believe the iron block is 77lbs heavier) Get a BMR or such K member, A-arms (good parts to have anyways)...sit in a sona and take a **** and you'll drop the weight lol
Old 06-24-2010, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by blue00ZZleeper
Get a iron block because it is cheaper, it will handle a lot of power now and in the future. As for the added weight if its even that big of a deal to you (I believe the iron block is 77lbs heavier) Get a BMR or such K member, A-arms (good parts to have anyways)...sit in a sona and take a **** and you'll drop the weight lol
lol hahahaha im only 180 anyways. im not as heavy as some of my homies. i think maybe the 6.0 would be cheap insurance because i plan on doing the a arms and k member at the same time anyways. i could probably shed the weight with that plus some wieght reduction or at least come damn close. plus like some others guys said another psi or two would solve the weight problem. i plan on about 85% street driving and 15% track time. it would see the track maybe twice a month. who knows, if i start winning money i may appear more.
Old 06-24-2010, 05:19 PM
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i gues i started a decent thread its interesting reading these posts keep em coming
Old 06-24-2010, 07:23 PM
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I have an iron 370 in my car. TH400, 9", pt88 turbo. I went 9.39@144 with the car nosing over on the big end HARD. Once I get that figured out I don't see a problem running in the high 8's. I have basically a full weight car too. It also sees at least 80% street duty.

I've broken 2 aluminum motors, they could have been my fault (pump gas) but I still broke them. This motor has been in my car for over a year without a problem. *knock on wood*

I say go with the iron block.
Old 06-24-2010, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by TRMIN8R
I have an iron 370 in my car. TH400, 9", pt88 turbo. I went 9.39@144 with the car nosing over on the big end HARD. Once I get that figured out I don't see a problem running in the high 8's. I have basically a full weight car too. It also sees at least 80% street duty.

I've broken 2 aluminum motors, they could have been my fault (pump gas) but I still broke them. This motor has been in my car for over a year without a problem. *knock on wood*

I say go with the iron block.
how much psi are you pushing and whats the hp and tq numbers at the rear wheels?
Old 06-24-2010, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by TRMIN8R
I have an iron 370 in my car. TH400, 9", pt88 turbo. I went 9.39@144 with the car nosing over on the big end HARD. Once I get that figured out I don't see a problem running in the high 8's. I have basically a full weight car too. It also sees at least 80% street duty.

I've broken 2 aluminum motors, they could have been my fault (pump gas) but I still broke them. This motor has been in my car for over a year without a problem. *knock on wood*

I say go with the iron block.
Can't argue with that.
Old 06-24-2010, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
Can't argue with that.
agreed cobra killer
Old 06-24-2010, 10:13 PM
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No offense, but Mightymouse who happens to have the same ERL block as me is running faster than both cobrakiller and TRMIN8R and has had zero block related issues in the past few years. I'm not saying the superdeck is needed in every instance, but it is surely stronger than a iron 6.0 4 bolt block.

And when we talk aluminum motors we need to not get them (LS1,LS2,LS3.....) confused with ERL's rendition of these original designs. They re-engineer these things from the ground up. They can no longer be compared. And for what application this will be in the 6.0 4 bolt will do just fine. But lets face it, once we get a taste of this stuff we end up wanting more. Nature of the FI game.
Old 06-24-2010, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 355TurboLT1
No offense, but Mightymouse who happens to have the same ERL block as me is running faster than both cobrakiller and TRMIN8R and has had zero block related issues in the past few years. I'm not saying the superdeck is needed in every instance, but it is surely stronger than a iron 6.0 4 bolt block.

And when we talk aluminum motors we need to not get them (LS1,LS2,LS3.....) confused with ERL's rendition of these original designs. They re-engineer these things from the ground up. They can no longer be compared. And for what application this will be in the 6.0 4 bolt will do just fine. But lets face it, once we get a taste of this stuff we end up wanting more. Nature of the FI game.
I think we all agree that the ERL option is the *nicest*, but for 7-800rwhp... does he really need to spend that kinda coin?

In my opinion, I would get a vendor on the site, order a nice 370 for 3-3600 for the shortblock and call it a day. It'll make all the power you'll need


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