i typed in t76 turbo on google shopping and a t76 turbo came up for $650 plus shipping and boost controller, gauge, manifold flange and downpipe flange. is this a decent deal for a single turbo set up for my lt1? what else will i need besides piping? how much more money will i need to put into this to make it work?

thanks ive been lost on this, cant find a procharger for affrodable price and i was told turbo will get me same results for much cheaper.


below is what i would be getting for $650

T76 Turbo TurboCharger 1.15AR P Trim , Polished Compressor Housing, Water and Oil Cooled

Quantity in Basket: None
Item Code: TRB-T76-P115
Our Price: $649.00
Shipping Weight: 26.00 pounds


3" Turbo V-Band Clamp & Downpipe Flange Add $29
2" 52MM Turbo BOOST GAUGE METER Add $29
Boost Controller Add $19
T4 turbo Manifold flange Divided Center Add $19


Quantity:


T76 1.15 A/R P Trim Turbo Charger

Polished Compressor Housing, Water and Oil Cooled

Big HP Applications, Such as Mustang, Supra, RX7, and other 4-Clyn Engines with high Power Setup. 1JZGTE, 2JZGTE, Civic B18, B20, 240SX SR20DET, RB20, RB25, Eclipse 4G63.

Highlights:
- Big Turbo, Big Power, 76mm Compressor Wheel.
- 1.15 A/R Turbine for Big Exhaust Applications, such as Rotary Engines
- High Quality Turbo, with Big Wheels, Good For 500 to 800 HP
- Billet Aluminum CNC Machined Back Plate
- Computer Balanced

Item(s) Specification:
- 4" Air Inlet
- 2.5" Compressed Air Outlet
- Wet Floating Bearings
- Oil + Water Cooling
- 1/8" NPT Feeding. M8 x1.25 Return Flange Mounting Screws
- M16 Threaded Water Cooling Fitting
- Standard T4 Flange
- 500-800 HP
- 76mm Wheel Compressor
- P Trim 1.15 A/R Turbine
- 102.4mm/76.7 Compressor Wheel
- 74.1mm/64.6mm
- 3" V-band Hot Side

Optional 3" stainless steel Turbo V-Band Clamp & steel Downpipe Flange

Optional 2" 52MM Turbo BOOST GAUGE METER for Turbo Application PSI Reading

Optional Manual Turbo Boost Controller

Optional T4 turbo Manifold flange Divided Center, 0.5" Thick

 

Atleast 4k for decent parts, doing all the work yourself and doing the bare minimum. Theres very little reason to go twin turbo, especially if you are stock cubes.

You have alot more research to do, it sounds like you dont know what youre getting into.

 

that didnt answer my question about how this kit looks, what else ill need and how much money ill have to spend.

 

 

ha ha ha that toon is funny.......

anyway. to sum it up, you are looking at a chinese/ebay turbo kit/parts.
which welds break, compressor wheels explode and so on.....

dude above is basically saying that you will need to spend at least $4k to do it right.

1. you want to use a name brand turbo(precision,garrett,turbonetics,master power)
and name brand parts wastegate,bov, etc..

A real turbo will cost you $800.00 by itself with nothing else besides the turbo!!!

 

Dont buy that so called kit.Just wait and look for a good used kit that you know works.And if your on a budget "Like me" master power is the BEST turbo for the money. Please dont go lower in quality then that.Good luck....

And what else you need to know. Is if you want any kind of boost you will need in a good fuel setup. Like pump,injecters and a boost reference fuel regulater. Thats about a thousand dollars rite there. And then you will need to worry about valve train, like chrome moly pushrods and some really good springs!! Thats a 400dollars or so later...Oh i hope you know how to tune it? If not? That will run you about $750. No mail order HERE.....Thats just for starters.................

 

don't forget that if you plan on making any real boost/h.p.
you will need to upgrade your:
engine internals
rear
trans
mounts
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$

$$

$
$

$$
$
$

 

You edited your post a whole half hour after I posted and added the kit info....

I have that kit and if you have no other options at all, it works ok. I think pretty much everyone that started with that kit has moved on to truck manifolds though.

 

$$$$$$

 

Ding ding ding

I started with a eBay kit. Drove it 300 miles and sold it. Now I have about 8k Into a build.

 

so would it be more expensive to turbo than slap a procharger on it?

 

^^^theyre about the same in the end, ive got almost exactly 4k in turbo parts right now, NOT including tranny, 12 bolt, and full suspension with chassis and brake upgrades. and i still need a BOV and a few small things.

youll need a wideband O2 sensor ($200), oil feed and return lines (2 or 3 hundred), intercooler ($100), silicone cupplers, a MAP sensor($100), a new PCV setup (few hundred)

Now start thinkin about tools, welder, sawzall, cutoff too, die grinder, carbide burrs, metal stock for brackets and etc, argon, angle grinder........

honestly man Forced Induction is ******* endless

 

I think that the moral of the story is to spend it once and spend it right. When you cheap out, you will usually end up buying things twice. That said, there is the right way to cheap out and the wrong way. Right now with the economy the way that it is and people losing their jobs left and right, there are a ton of good deals out there. I paid $600 for my used PT88 and $350 for my $1K+ intercooler.

 

New Procharger systems are ~$6k.

I'm building a truck manifold front mount turbo setup, and have under $2000 in it - that includes intercooler and plumbing, Master Power T70, hot side plumbing, 317 casting heads, LS6 cam, and wastegate. I still need a blowoff valve. I'll need to build a supporting fuel system, which will run another $500-600, and I'm sure my stock 10 bolt will need to be replaced. But strictly power adder stuff, about $2500 out the door.

 

turbo $500 on the low end for a good unit
intercooler $75 there are a couple ebay units that are okay.
piping $100 with couplers again Some ebay kits are okay to an extent
waste gate $200 do not go cheap here
blow off $200 also do not go cheap
meth kit $550 for a dual nozzel set up. Great insurance
Mandrel bent exhaust piping $350ish
Truck manifolds $75 shipped
welding if you take it somewhere $35+ an hour more if you want it tigged.
v-band flanges $25+ each depending on size
Clamps $15ish each
Oil feed line approx $10 a foot
injectors $250+ for a pair of good 60#
all your flanges around $100

there is a ton more that i am missing, but if you figure a couple hours to weld it and a few clamps u are at $3000 with some used parts and e bay pieces. like the said spend it right the first time

Half-Assed = HALF AS FAST

 

If you aren't in a rush to throw a kit on your car then you can easily build a top notch kit for much less than the numbers I see thrown around on this board every day. A turbo, tuning software, and dyno time are really about the biggest expenses. Create of list of every part you need. Join a few huge car forums and you can find every part you need in the for sale section at a fraction of the cost of new parts. Big forums like hondatech and supraforums are a great place to start looking for cheap turbo parts. I'm not saying that you should go buy a used turbo but if money is an issue, it's always an option. It also helps to have a few friends who weld for a living.

 

Youre forgetting tuning and/or tuning software. That was the single most expensive thing of the whole build. Cost 600 for HPT, 150 for a mail order from frost, and another 100 for a local tuner to tweak.

Also I was told not to push it beyond 6psi on stock spring and pushrods, thats why I bought ls6 yellows and hardened pushrods.

 

Nah, I didnt forget that cost, but you will spend money tuning whether or not you turbo or supercharge it. He asked if Procharging would be cheaper...I guess it depends how you do it. I researched costs of both as well as h/c/i and decided I could get more powet with less money going the turbo route - but it'll probably cost me more DIY time than the other two options.

 

I'm about 10k in to my build and lack about 5k to finish it. Fi is very expensive.

 

if one were to read the stickies at the top of the forced induction page all this info has been hashed over in the true price of forced induction section.