procharger head unit decision
#1
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procharger head unit decision
I have a p1sc procharger and I think its maxed out. I was looking into getting a d1 but would I be better off with a f1. I also have acces to a f1c. My motor is 5.7 ls1, forged dished pistons, forged rods, stock crankshaft and arp bolts. compression ratio is 9.1. car is a daily driver but looking for max effort
#3
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Depends on your HP goals. A pullied down huge charger is not good either.
A D1SC is good to approx. 750rwhp, depending on your combination.
The F-1 is marginally larger & will support approx. 100rwhp more.
Then there is the F-1A, F-1C, F-1R for more serious combinations.
Let me know if I can help you with a supercharger head unit.
A D1SC is good to approx. 750rwhp, depending on your combination.
The F-1 is marginally larger & will support approx. 100rwhp more.
Then there is the F-1A, F-1C, F-1R for more serious combinations.
Let me know if I can help you with a supercharger head unit.
#4
It sounds like a D1 is optimal for your current setup BUT you'll end up spending way more $ if you upgrade twice I would buy the biggest you can as long as you don't mind the noise the F head units make there screamers. If I recall the F1A and F1C will fit a fbody without moving the radiator but the F1R is tight. Either way you'll have fun trying to get an inlet on their that flows good and fits the truck inlets works best.
Another thing to consider is you most likely will want to either add methanol or a large FMIC with an F series head unit.
Get an F1C or an F1R I've got an F1A and want more.
Another thing to consider is you most likely will want to either add methanol or a large FMIC with an F series head unit.
Get an F1C or an F1R I've got an F1A and want more.
#5
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It sounds like a D1 is optimal for your current setup BUT you'll end up spending way more $ if you upgrade twice I would buy the biggest you can as long as you don't mind the noise the F head units make there screamers. If I recall the F1A and F1C will fit a fbody without moving the radiator but the F1R is tight. Either way you'll have fun trying to get an inlet on their that flows good and fits the truck inlets works best.
Another thing to consider is you most likely will want to either add methanol or a large FMIC with an F series head unit.
Get an F1C or an F1R I've got an F1A and want more.
Another thing to consider is you most likely will want to either add methanol or a large FMIC with an F series head unit.
Get an F1C or an F1R I've got an F1A and want more.
To the OP, I would go with an F-1A. At the old shop we made 864 rwhp with an F-1A at only 12.5 psi of boost on the Mustang Chassis Dyno. The owner of the car took it to another shop's dyno day and had similar numbers.
We were pushing my 408 iron block in my '99 Z28 (car in my avatar) at 19 to 20 psi with an F-1A, so they can make a lot of boost. Bob
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#7
I disagree with the advice of not going with a larger headunit. From my experience a restricted larger head unit is the way to go... I've had 3 different headunits with my setup, P1SC, F1C, and now F1R... So my vote goes to the F1C at minimum for sure...
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#8
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looking to max out my motor, the motor is rated at 1100 hp. Mahle says I shouldnt run more than 20 psi. I have no real goals or limits with this car except it will be a daily driver and will see pump gas only(91)
#9
From reading a lot of posts, the D1 seems to last a long time on the street for most guys and makes a good DD.
curious what, if any, feedback people are having with F series for DD service. Make sure you listen to an F series - they are a lot louder, may make it a little less fun for everyday use.
curious what, if any, feedback people are having with F series for DD service. Make sure you listen to an F series - they are a lot louder, may make it a little less fun for everyday use.
Last edited by COPO9560; 08-25-2010 at 07:52 PM. Reason: typo
#11
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I have DD'd my car for 3 years now and not really to many issues. No reason why on a forged motor with the proper fuel system and tune you couldnt make 700+ rwhp and still DD it...it just gets expensive trying to DD something of that nature..wear and tear will kill you lol
#14
To DD my F series at least on my car I would want an upgraded tensioner the stock one is crap. SDCE and Aster make one there expensive. You'll want to budget for a custom radiator and A/C the stock radiator plus the poor airflow provided by the single pro-charger fan does not make for good street use. All that plus a built 6-speed or 4L80 would make one killer street machine.
If you plan for all that I don't see any reason why you could DD an F-series car but IMO the way the kit comes out of the box is just not up to par. I assume your running this on an fbody not a corvette or GTO the latter have much better designs.
If you plan for all that I don't see any reason why you could DD an F-series car but IMO the way the kit comes out of the box is just not up to par. I assume your running this on an fbody not a corvette or GTO the latter have much better designs.
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99 firebird in the sig. I use a homemade fan setup like the one on exotic performance website. It has 16" fan and 8" fan installed. Doesen't overheat but the temp gauge is a dummy gauge unlike in my 98 camaro which actually reads the temp sensor, so I don't know my real temps.
Whats the max psi a d1sc will go without belt slip and 8 rib setup?
Whats the max psi a d1sc will go without belt slip and 8 rib setup?
2003, camaro, cost, f1c, head, homemade, limits, ls1, mustang, p1sc, procharger, radiator, relocation, restricted, supercharger, unit