What am I missing?
Engine:
402 CI LQ4/9 block
Custom Diamond or JE pistons
Callies Compstar Crankshaft (debated between this or Dragonslayer, is it worth the extra few hundred?)
Eagle H Beam connecting rods
Either a FAST or Vic. Jr Intake
AFR 225 heads (not sure which cc, don't know enough yet
)Chromeoly pushrods
NW 90 mm Throttle Body (haven't looked much into this, YET)
Unsure about the cam at this point
Boost:
ATI Procharger F-1A @ 18 PSI, twin intercooler setup
Fueling:
(Throw me a bone on this one, I really have tried to learn more about this without always asking questions, but it's still kinda confusing)
Either the Nasty Performance or Lonnies Performance kit, can't really tell which would be better. I'm actually not sure what to completely do about that, so any advice would be greatly appreciated

Suspension:
I pretty much know what I want here, too lazy to type it all out haha, so many parts. I know I need a great suspension if I want to hook the car at all though
Transmission:
Stuck between a 4L80E or a T56. Ive spoken to a few pros on here and they all told me the same things. I don't want the car to feel like a slug at anything under WOT with an auto, but I also don't want a T56 to break, and Ive heard the most common issue with the T56s is the gears themselves breaking, and an upgraded gearset is like 5k
Tuning:
3BAR SD Tune -- That sound bad to anyone?
Exhaust:
Kooks 1 7/8" headers
Magnaflow catback
Custom Y
I want the compression ratio to be about 9.5:1 or so, give or take a little, and I'd like to keep all accessories. Since it'll be a street car, I might even add in a nice sound system (no heavy subs in the back) and some Dynamat.
My knowledge is not infinite and my build is definitely not bulletproof, so some suggestions would be really helpful. My original reason for this thread was about the Procharger itself. I want the power of the F-1A, and normally the whistle of a procharger is like crack for my ears, I'm unhealthily addicted, but its so damn LOUD. I don't have a problem with it as much as everyone else I know would. I can't believe I'm asking, but is there a way to slightly dampen the sound? I want it louder than a D1SC though, this sucks. The step up ratio on the F series is a fair amount higher and with the race bypass, it'll only get louder, so I appear to be SOL.
Normally I'd get a D1SC, but for 800+ hp or so, that's really pushing the blower to unsafe limits once it gets into the higher PSI range. Any input is appreciated, thanks! (*Waits for ppl to come in and say an 18 year old shouldn't attempt this task*) Like I said guys, I fantasize about this car everyday and I can scrape up the funds for this and school as well
5k later and i still dont even have a running motor... still missing stuff here and there
when she is done i will be at the power level you want.. i am goin with the 4l80...
that much power and a stick car = really hard to hook..
and you really dont miss a gear in an auto...
forced induction isnt cheap but the end is worth it to me so i can wait to have my 4000 lbs pig runing up there in the 9s with a/c powersteering and everything
keep your mind at it and build a beast...
good luck
Besides, it's better to plan far ahead of time and know exactly what you want so you have a clear goal in mind (at least for me it is) besides, in the meantime, it's good to read and research, ask questions and know what you're going to do.
Anybody else though? I was expecting more responses
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Ditch the twin intercoolers go with a FMIC.
Stay with FAST intake - it will meet your needs
For fueling go with a twin intank walboro or big external (like A1000).
Use 60lb mototron injectors
Get a set of QA1's for on stock springs for suspension. Subframe connectors, torque arm, lower control arms.
Strap a set of MT drag radials.
If you want to run an ET ditch the T56 and get a T400 with a 4500 stall. If you want to drive your car keep the T56 and get a good twin disk clutch.
Put a 9" in the rear with a 3.6 to 3.73 gear
3 bar tune will work fine - install an onboard WB and tune with HP tuners or EFI live - learn to tune it yourself.
Make sure you have a velocity merge on the kooks headers. Custom Y with pre-fab Y merge. Install a cut-out for the track - then you can stick whatever muffler you want on it.
The F1A is going to be loud - pull up your panties - this is a 9 sec car afterall.
Ditch the twin intercoolers go with a FMIC.
Stay with FAST intake - it will meet your needs
For fueling go with a twin intank walboro or big external (like A1000).
Use 60lb mototron injectors
Get a set of QA1's for on stock springs for suspension. Subframe connectors, torque arm, lower control arms.
Strap a set of MT drag radials.
If you want to run an ET ditch the T56 and get a T400 with a 4500 stall. If you want to drive your car keep the T56 and get a good twin disk clutch.
Put a 9" in the rear with a 3.6 to 3.73 gear
3 bar tune will work fine - install an onboard WB and tune with HP tuners or EFI live - learn to tune it yourself.
Make sure you have a velocity merge on the kooks headers. Custom Y with pre-fab Y merge. Install a cut-out for the track - then you can stick whatever muffler you want on it.
The F1A is going to be loud - pull up your panties - this is a 9 sec car afterall.
I thought the 60 lb injectors would be maxed out with the power and fueling I was planning, do you think they'll suffice? As for the QA1s, I heard they're basically a strictly drag suspension setup, I had looked at the Hal QA1 coilovers, do you think they'd do well on the street too?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/12321597-post1.html
The setup your talking about is not only expensive for an 18 year old with a $16 an hr job, but completely insane if you actually think you can make it down the track in it at WOT.
Save yourself a huge hospital/funeral bill and actually get a v8 first.
Have you even taken that "520rwhp" car down the track at WOT? or has you mommy/daddy just let you take it around the block?
Good luck, I hope you have good medical insurance.

Why not do a LQ9 6.0L with a D1SC? That would make plenty of power, it would be much, MUCH cheaper. It still will make plenty of power and should hold together while you learn to drive a car that makes that much power.
You could also do a 4xx stroker build for literally 1/4 of the cost of that and still make 500+rwhp. That is enough for mid 10's or better with good suspension.
Jumping from where your at now to 800rwhp is going to be crazy, and I'd be willing to be money you wrap it around a tree. That amount of power is NO JOKE on the street. I could spin drag radials on the freeway with 500rwhp.
T56 is going to be a pain in the ***. They are expensive, clutches are expensive, and an auto would be quicker.
With the build you listed there, that is AT LEAST $20,000-$30,000 cash. Whatever you have everything priced at out, times it by 1.5 and thats what its going to roughly cost. I'm not trying to be a dick when I say this but I've been in your position and unless you have a seriously bad *** job at 18 years old, you will not be able to afford this build.








