PSI? you mean cc? They are rated at 527cc@58psi which equates to 456cc @ 43.5psi, or 43lbs. I think outside the box


edit: for a little larger ones: srt4 stage 1 injectors (which are only like $5 more on neons.org) rate like this:
-577cc@58psi/500cc@43.5psi or 47.5lbs

 

also EV6 injector tails can be found on 96+ Mustang or 97+ neon (a couple cars that litter junkyards for years)

 

Sweet! I've been doing some research and am looking for 55-60lb injectors. From what I've seen, the Stage 2 SRT injectors would put out right around that, but would cost quite a bit and aren't easy to find.

 

DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON THE WASTEGATE. You can go cheap on everything else but get a good (JGS, TiAL, Turbosmart) wastegate.

 

The turbo as well I would say. Lots of Chinese knockoffs going around on ebay that aren't worth the space they take up. You can get good deals on used turbos. Even the used Holsets on Ebay off the Cummins trucks aren't bad depending on the application. Plenty of good used turbos on here as well. But yeah, the wastegate is another item you should definitely not cheap out on. Things like the blowoff valve, intercooler, manual boost controller, etc you can cut some corners on. Many of the ebay intercoolers seem to be quality pieces and you can get one for $200 shipped with a bunch of piping. Look for the Godspeed or CXracing interoolers. Blowoff valves are also pretty simple pieces and you can get good ones on siliconeintakes.com for cheap with all the hardware and flanges. Many Ebay manual boost controllers also have a good reputation.

 

Listen to this guy... theres a lot of stuff that fails and when it fails you can replace it, but when a wastegate fails it usually fails SHUT meaning it doesn't open correctly, you heavily overboost, and break everything in its path... I know its a budget build, but don't go cheap on the wastegate.

 

the stage 1's, if you increase rail pressure to 70psi, will flow 60lbs might need to buy another pump because pump flow decreases with added pressure, but that is still cheaper than a full set (x8) of 60lb injectors brand new.

And if you all want cheap RELIABLE turbos (yes, those two words are in one sentence ) look in Holsets off of cummins engines. Pre 2007.5 (6.7l) cummins turbos all have t3 flanges.
H1c (52-54mm inducers),
hx35 (54mm incuder, updated),
hx40 (usually on 8.3l cummins, and range from 54mm to 60mm incuder and can have t3 or t4 footprints,
he351cw (60mm inducer, 9cm exhaust housing, 4" v-band downpipe) -flows virtually the same as a GT35r
...are just some examples of turbos that will last 200,000miles @ 20psi (avarage factory output) and have realiably seen 35+psi for many, many thousands of mile...... they can be had for around $350 SHIPPED!!!! top that $1,500 garret center sections!!!

 

With all of these tricks on injectors you could just buy a set of used 60lbers for on average 240-300 depending on who you get them from. I just did a wuick search on those SRT4 injectors and the cheapest that i found a set of 4 was 100 bucks X2 and then add in connectors you might aswell just get a set of used 60's that you know someone can lend you the pcm data needed to get them running right.

 

....look on neons.org. I have a set of stage1's (x4) I'd sell someone for $35 shipped to your door. They are cheap, you just have to know where to look. And I'd include pigtails for $8 more
and my price is right on point with everyone else on the .org
so say you buy two sets for $70 total
snag some pigtails from the junkyard for $10
a FPR for $30
and an inline 255 walbro for $80


.....that is ~$190 for a complete fuel system. then you can spend the $110 you saved on a few hookers

 

I knew they had to be cheaper somewhere else.

What about the injector data?

 

check out my above posts. they are high impeadance (hi-rez) so do not require a resistor box

 

Yes but you still need injector data to fill into the PCM Ie offset volts, pulsewidth etc.

 

The volts should be within the range needed for the factory high-res injectors. Pulsewidth is what you will figure out for your peticular set-up via datalogging, as pulsewidths will change with load/rpm/afr's needed.... You should be able to calculate a "base" tune from someone else's tune with similarly sized injectors.

 

I know that you do that with logging and such, just makes it easier to tune when you already have a good starting point.

 

???

What got the brand of the Turbo to do with the stress the motors receives?
The boost pressure is what the make stress to the engine.

First you say the cheap Turbo will not make enough boost and then they stress the engine - what????

Also 10PSI are 10PSI, what a nonsense to say that 10PSI of a cheapo are like 8 of a good Turbo.

Plus, the member who advised me to go for a 250USD Turbo from a Cummins was talking about a Holset, that is quality brand, not a cheapo at all!

 

What he is talking about are compressor wheels and such. If you buy a name brand quality turbo then you may make 8psi at say 4k rpms where as a diesel truck turbo will probably make it at say 5200 rpms. Also another thing to take into account is size alone. My tc-78 is tiny compared to a most truck turbos but is a much netter turbo overall.


But i think what you want to hear is that you can do it for xxx amount of dollars buy cheap **** and it will last forever.

 

yea, the mm of the inducer and exducer isnt the only thing you have to take into consideration. the pitch of the blades of the wheel, the number of blades, the size of the compressor housing all have major effects on the charateristics and flow of a turbo.
I think someone should make a "CFM" gauge so we can monitor and compare PSI to CFM more directly with each turbo

 

Is not what I want to hear at all, and again, a Holset is not a cheapo turbo.
The industrie also wants to convience us that everything costs a leg and an arm.
Rims for instance, a proper set of billets is to get for around 700-1000USD,

Back in the days and still some companies ask for 7000-1000USD.

A remanufatured brand-turbo is absolutely ok to me, the FI is not everything that goes in that bug, we already calculated approximatly 20 000€ altough most of the parts will be paid in USD.

@TurboMark8

Thats true

 

Bingo. thats usually why i dont post in these types of threads. sometimes you have to learn the hard way. im 20-30g's into my "budget" build

 

But you can build cheap set-ups by using used OEM products from various manufacturers that have gone through more research and longer design periods, and because they were mass produced, they are relatively cheap to get and replace if something happens.

I would say the cheapest/highest hp/most reliable/cheapest to maintain setup would be:
LQ9 longblock
reversed truck manifolds
twin hx35's or he351's
Ebay 2-to-1 FMIC
drill/customize manifold to run 16 srt4 stage1 injectors
Megasquirt
e85

oh wait.....that's what me and my wife are doing
probably gonna put that set-up in her truck, and another in her T/A for a little bit while we rebuild her yl301