Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

#7 Always Broken

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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 03:00 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by dschmittie1
When I did my Vic Jr intake swap I switched to a LS1 cross over tube that ties all 4 together. I also have noticed that in some of big FI builds I have see and stuff that Kurt Urban has done he ties all 4 together.
Do you have any pics you could post of that? Thanks.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 05:30 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Beaflag VonRathburg
i think this is the 3rd time this link was posted in this thread
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 08:48 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by LS4_DeltaV
i think this is the 3rd time this link was posted in this thread
I believe they are suggesting that the root of the problem is insuffiecient cooling and this will help. there are many other options to help with eliminating the steam pockets in the rear and this is one.
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 10:57 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by edge04
you can tap into your water pump or you lower radiator hose housing. make sure it is the lower one which sucks.
An air bleed MUST vent to the highest point so it escapes into air.

If you plumb it into a lower area, you can get air locks there instead. Vent to the airspace in the header tank.



Originally Posted by XtremeDime
Id rather just buy 4 block off plates, and tap them. It would be about 50$ total with lines. $200 is a bit steep.
it's a nice piece of kit. But you can just drill/tap the cylinder head holes out and screw a fitting directly into it, instead of with that little adaptor that bolts on.
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 01:39 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
An air bleed MUST vent to the highest point so it escapes into air.

If you plumb it into a lower area, you can get air locks there instead. Vent to the airspace in the header tank.
so for those of us running the aftermarket radiators, we can just plumb it strait down into the top of the radiator?
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 01:53 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by CarsandWomen
so for those of us running the aftermarket radiators, we can just plumb it strait down into the top of the radiator?
it needs to be plumbed into a location where air is intended to be there. Not anywhere air could possibly be trapped.

Unless the radiator is mounted higher than everything else in the cooling system, then no I would not route an air bleed there.
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
it needs to be plumbed into a location where air is intended to be there. Not anywhere air could possibly be trapped.

Unless the radiator is mounted higher than everything else in the cooling system, then no I would not route an air bleed there.
never heard of that, I guess I need to re think my set up
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 03:58 PM
  #48  
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lots of info here
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 04:00 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by edge04
never heard of that, I guess I need to re think my set up
Thats why most cars run an expansion header tank at high level. There needs to be airspace in any cooling system, and it must be at the highest point otherwise air will get trapped elsewhere, which will cause problems.
That's why air bleeds exist at those potential trouble spots.
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 04:04 PM
  #50  
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I tapped my heads with a 1/16" NPT thread and used 1/16 to -4 AN fittings on all four corners. then welded two -4 fitting in the high point (below the radiator cap) on my radiator and connected them. I am using the Victor Jr setup so I have alot of room. I wouldnt know what to do with an LS6 or FAST other than the LS1 lines.
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 04:16 PM
  #51  
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I drilled and tapped 1/8NPT and -4 to a connection block ( or more commonly sold as vacuum manifolds ), and routed this to my header tank. ( also has a bleed from the top of the radiator too )
If doing this, use steel fittings in the cylinder head. The taper NPT thread will easily damage an aluminium fitting.







Last edited by stevieturbo; Sep 19, 2010 at 05:18 PM.
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 04:51 PM
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what is a "header block?" mine is similar although i used aluminum NPT (used thread glue instead of teflon tape) and not much torque as i didnt wanna break them off in the head. that is a sure pretty setup though. wow. i used all stainless lines but i"m loving that black braided hose as well.
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 05:18 PM
  #53  
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where is header block mentioned ?
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 05:27 PM
  #54  
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my bad "header tank" is it like the coolant overflow?
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by transammiller
my bad "header tank" is it like the coolant overflow?
that is what I am wondering? So top of the radiator would be good?
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 06:50 PM
  #56  
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that is where i have mine.
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 07:10 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
I drilled and tapped 1/8NPT and -4 to a connection block ( or more commonly sold as vacuum manifolds ), and routed this to my header tank. ( also has a bleed from the top of the radiator too )
If doing this, use steel fittings in the cylinder head. The taper NPT thread will easily damage an aluminium fitting.






in the 2nd pic where is the line to the right (driver's side) going?
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 07:29 PM
  #58  
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Subscribed. Great thread!
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 07:35 PM
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I had my heads off today and I was looking at the block. Theres a port on the head for a coolant passage but on the block there is nothing. Is there a reason for this? I would imagine #7 and 8 would benefit greatly if there was function coolant passage there.
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 08:25 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by edge04
that is what I am wondering? So top of the radiator would be good?
so a header tank is the same as an expansion tank, I might tap into that
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