Water Vapor Collection system
Have you ever flow tested the airflow distribution on the factory manifolds to see if thats a portion of the problem? I've always wondered if the design of the factory manifold makes #7 more prone to higher volumes of airflow. On Brians car we found the air was doing some weird stuff at velocity.
Again, I stress the 'guessing' strategy as I'm trying to learn here, not make statements of authority or certainty.
I haven't been specifically looking so I dont remember seeing anyone flip the manifold and having problems. Not saying that they dont exist but just dont remember. We are flipping the manifold on my motor and 100% expect the egts to move in correlation with the flipped manifold. Who has flipped the manifold and had motor issues, I'd love to do more research on it.
I'm reviving this from the dead.... but it is a good thread to revive.
Is this setup, Kurt's in particular, something that could help save the ringlands on the back cylinders?
I have a FAST intake, and as such, had to block off the rear vent tubes, and last weekend I think I cracked #7's ringland.
Kurt, I'd like to hear your thoughts on this as I'm going to go with a forged shortblock, but I want to avoid this situation from ever happening again.
Thanks
Is this setup, Kurt's in particular, something that could help save the ringlands on the back cylinders?
I have a FAST intake, and as such, had to block off the rear vent tubes, and last weekend I think I cracked #7's ringland.
Kurt, I'd like to hear your thoughts on this as I'm going to go with a forged shortblock, but I want to avoid this situation from ever happening again.
Thanks
The thing that can happen is air gets trapped in the rear of the heads and insulates the backside of the combustion chamber on the rear cylinder causing hot spots. I believe this can lead to broken parts. I believe this is one problem that can cause issues in race engines and it's aggravated by running reduced water flow and water instead of coolant. I believe you also need to watch your water flow as the engine output gets into 4 digits.
Kurt
Kurt
At the time I already had the ls6 crossover tube and picked up the ls1 tube locally for next to nothing, so for now it should help alleviate cyl 7/8 temp spikes/hot spots from trapped air. I think the coolant path is more at fault here though.
Last edited by Squirts11; Jan 22, 2012 at 12:55 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
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From: Norn Iron
Have you ever flow tested the airflow distribution on the factory manifolds to see if thats a portion of the problem? I've always wondered if the design of the factory manifold makes #7 more prone to higher volumes of airflow. On Brians car we found the air was doing some weird stuff at velocity.
so what does this kit go for nowadays kurt? thanks!
also, is there an advantage to running this over a factory 4 corner setup? right now my motor as it came with the car a year ago n/a had the rears with blockoffs on them and now with going fi and reading this, i'm concerned about the hot spots.
lastly, will your kit or the factory 4 post setup work with a vic jr without issue?
also, is there an advantage to running this over a factory 4 corner setup? right now my motor as it came with the car a year ago n/a had the rears with blockoffs on them and now with going fi and reading this, i'm concerned about the hot spots.
lastly, will your kit or the factory 4 post setup work with a vic jr without issue?
so what does this kit go for nowadays kurt? thanks!
also, is there an advantage to running this over a factory 4 corner setup? right now my motor as it came with the car a year ago n/a had the rears with blockoffs on them and now with going fi and reading this, i'm concerned about the hot spots.
lastly, will your kit or the factory 4 post setup work with a vic jr without issue?
also, is there an advantage to running this over a factory 4 corner setup? right now my motor as it came with the car a year ago n/a had the rears with blockoffs on them and now with going fi and reading this, i'm concerned about the hot spots.
lastly, will your kit or the factory 4 post setup work with a vic jr without issue?
A vic Jr. sits pretty high above the valley cover, so I don't see it being an issue with either.
Last edited by Squirts11; Jan 22, 2012 at 12:53 PM.
agreed 100% with -an fittings being superior but right now the budget would be easier to cope with going to the factory 4 post setup until it's up and running. upgrades such as these that can be done later no doubt. and i have a meziere street pump so the radiator is the only point it can go to. thanks for the reply though! i will definitely get the back 1/2 of the system back to functioning again!
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It has been years, but I did run weeks of dyno wot testing with 8 egt and 8 02 sensors with the manifold on both ways. I also had thermocouples on all 4 corners and ran the block offs in the steam locations in the rear and front depending on the direction the manifold was on. The water was the only thing that had measurable problems, and the 4 corner bleeds helped. I did change the water flow at the deck and still change some water flow that I find helpful in our engines.
Kurt
Kurt
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: saint louis Missouri
That system looks great, but it relies on velocity to work as air does not want to naturally go down. In the pictures you can see it has a factory pump, that should have enough flow to easily force the air down at rpm. If you plumbed this with the collection block higher it would make the air go into the collection block even if the engine is off. Then tap the collection block with the return line on top, that would give the air a natural escape and function best.
Kurt
Kurt
I have my back ports joined with AN line, T'd off to the front, and joined in a 4 way junction block then routed to the top port on the rad. Is this sufficient? The back 2 were blocked off, so this has to be better. Hopefully...
