Help Needed, starts but wont run
as of right now we dont have a scan tool, can prob get one during the week to check some things out. We do have a xtra TPS we can swap out and see if that helps. Reguardess the injectors need to be sealed up. When we put only about 5psi in the intake it blows air outta um really bad. I can hear um leak air from across the garage. It just blows our mind that it started up the first time without missing a beat and idled pretty damn good, now this? Thats the biggest kick in the ***** 
4 are out right now, we got a tiny bit bigger o-rings to see if that helps
very true and why im still on the fence about this. Well try some starting fluid next to rule that out
huh? lol
Precisely why I don't think that the injectors leaking around the seals are causing the problem. Under vacuum they may not leak at all. I'm not saying this wont be a problem under boost, just that it isn't what is happening right now. Right now, it sounds like no fuel. Spray some carb starter fluid in the TB while you're cranking it with the TB cracked. If it helps it, you'll know if it's a fuel delivery problem.
huh? lol
It sounds electrical to me. Just because you have spark & fuel doesnt mean **** really. I had an 8.1 Suburban with 15k km here in Afghanistan. Fuel pressure was good. Two coils at a time would randomly misfire, so I swapped those coils. No go. Swapped the CPS. No go. Swapped the CKS. No go. I was working without a scanner & basic tools, so I sent it to a bigger camp across the city in Kabul. They worked on it for 2 weeks. Ended up being some kind of box under the dash like VATS or something.
yea i know what u mean COMPGTO...
well we got the injectors sealed up and it idles a little longer (like up to 10 seconds now) but the second you hit the gas it dies out instantly. Tried a different TPS and nothing. Gonna try some starting fluid tomm and see if it can run that way. In the meantime were trying to locate a scanner we can use but there pretty hard to come by.
well we got the injectors sealed up and it idles a little longer (like up to 10 seconds now) but the second you hit the gas it dies out instantly. Tried a different TPS and nothing. Gonna try some starting fluid tomm and see if it can run that way. In the meantime were trying to locate a scanner we can use but there pretty hard to come by.
well, we have a scanner to use today, its a friends laptop with a progeam on it to read everything. What all am i looking at? U guys are talking about L trim? I know to check the map, key on, engine off. Will let you know everything we can later!!
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Melbourne
Firstly air around the o-rings will cause it to run bad/stall. Secondly I'd be making sure that your map sensor has been scaled to 2bar. Have you tried a standard? Thirdly which I have also seen on some is blown injector fuses when doing conversions. Lastly I hope your reluctor wheel is on the right way/position
Precisely why I don't think that the injectors leaking around the seals are causing the problem. Under vacuum they may not leak at all. I'm not saying this wont be a problem under boost, just that it isn't what is happening right now. Right now, it sounds like no fuel. Spray some carb starter fluid in the TB while you're cranking it with the TB cracked. If it helps it, you'll know if it's a fuel delivery problem.
Next question is...is using a bypass regulator fine? Were wondering if that style of fuel system is not enough? And also instead of using plugs on the back of the rail its got a crossover on it (thinking if one crossover get clogged the rear one will feed it). Heres my 2 second quick diagram of how the system is laid out, lol......
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That is not a good way to run the regulator! I would "Y" the feed into the back of both rails, and run the front of both rails into the regulator and return from there... you are short circuiting the rails the way you have it...
i agree with you and how im gonna be running my fuel system however when he ordered the regulator he didnt know it was a bypass regulator and threw it on to finish the car up. So with that being said what do you mean by "short circuiting the rails"?
Exactly what regulator is it? Depending on which one it is, and which ports you used, I'm wondering if you might be sending a majority of the fuel right back the return the way you have plumbed...
its this regulator..
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-4305M/
it has a -8 feed, -6 return on the bottom of it, and 3 -6 outlets and 1 gauge port. If you look into the -8 feed input you can see out of the other 3 -6 outlets. So the body is all hollow inside of it with the return being in the center on the other side of the regulator part.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-4305M/
it has a -8 feed, -6 return on the bottom of it, and 3 -6 outlets and 1 gauge port. If you look into the -8 feed input you can see out of the other 3 -6 outlets. So the body is all hollow inside of it with the return being in the center on the other side of the regulator part.
Looked at their instructions - for that type of regulator, the way you have it hooked up should work... Is the smaller line a gage? You getting pressure ok? I'm thinking this isn't the problem...
You sure you got the VATs all taken care of?
You sure you got the VATs all taken care of?
Something is causing it to not fuel... I'm still thinking the MAP scaler is wrong - that would cause it to be around half of what it should be - so, if the car idles at 60 kpa, it would fuel it for 30 kpa... no way it would run like that.
Do you have a stock 1 bar MAP? If so, you can hook it up right quick and if it runs fine, there's your problem. Or, you can log it with the key on but not running and make sure the MAP reading is around 102 kpa...
Do you have a stock 1 bar MAP? If so, you can hook it up right quick and if it runs fine, there's your problem. Or, you can log it with the key on but not running and make sure the MAP reading is around 102 kpa...
I might of missed it but have you checked the rail pressure? It runs like it has enough fuel to prime it but not keep it running. I would say map except it ran with the map and tune correct?
Rail pressure is the same off the gauge, goes straight through, I dont think its a fuel system problem as it is a electrical/sensor problem, I am getting a real scanner, not the mini that we had today, and will be able to see what the map is reading. I appreciate all the help guys, trying to check as much stuff as possible, just working wth what time we have. Im about done with the car, but i know it will be well worth it when i get it going!!
Rail pressure is the same off the gauge, goes straight through, I dont think its a fuel system problem as it is a electrical/sensor problem, I am getting a real scanner, not the mini that we had today, and will be able to see what the map is reading. I appreciate all the help guys, trying to check as much stuff as possible, just working wth what time we have. Im about done with the car, but i know it will be well worth it when i get it going!!