I have done a fair bit to keep my aps car cool but still was finding that it would get really hot near overheat a few times when had the air on in the city.
It was fine with no air on.
So far what have done is 160 stat, redline water wetter with 50/50 not into 100% water with redline stuff. Might forget and hurt things I drive the car from about april /end march to about start of november mid november.

I have a no name high flow water pump and added a huge ron davis rad.

Stock fans . So looking at few ideas for over winter.

Burkhart front bumper support thingie? Will this let more air thru?
Will this give me more room to maybe put in a pusher fan in addition to the stock fans?
Is there any point in putting in aftermarket high flow puller fans and a what about shroud?
Can I drill holes in front bumper stock support like saw in sts instructions. Will these help?
I have factory air dam in place.
Will taking out my front liscence plate thingie we dont require front plates in my province and possibly fog lights help much.I do like the look of the front plate and fog lights stock though.
Will I get much better cooling by going to aluminum engine again. My iron 408 has problems and is coming out and ERL 427 aluminum will be replacing it.
Will aluminum engine run much cooler than iron block?
Also have had to run my aps turbos oil cooled only.I will be running the LG turbos oil and water both. Will this help temps?Should I add an oil cooler?
I also do have trans cooler in rad still not that comfortable with taking it out and just running aux coolers. Also worried a bit that trans fluid can get too cold if don't have it going thru rad as said do drive car in spring and fall and it gets pretty cold here there. Like zero degrees F.
I could go to evans coolant.Is it really worth it? I don't need evan water pump to use it do I?
I could take out air,save some weight and sure that would help cooling but do like to keep have air . One reason chose aps kit it keeps air.
I don't want to give up my ron davis rad but realize it might be so big its making things even harder to get air thru. As said only really have problems in very hot weather like 80 degrees up and then only with air on in town.

So give me your ideas guys. Oh and sts instructions show drilling like one inch holes all over the bumper support. That looked like might help some but could go to that burhart one too. Not so much worried about what it costs more just want it to work good.

Obviously removing air is the simplest solution.But not necessarily the most desirable one.

 

I got mine to run cool by leaving the hood off

 

The APS intercooler is the problem it is blocking the radiator.
Call me i have a fix for you.

 

I honestly think there is a problem somewhere man. Maybe too lean of a tune? Something else maybe. Cause My car can literally idle and SIT in the middle of Los Angelos traffic, and not have a problem. After I worked out the bugs in the system that is. My problem initially was I didnt have that steam crossover line installed on the car. I never had it on my H/C setup, but then again on that setup there wasnt 2 water cooled turbos. Which is undoubtedly a little bit of a burden on the cooling system.

But like I said, I have nothing done to my car Cooling wise. Stock radiator and fans, regular 50/50 mix no water wetter. I even have an underdrive pulley with stock water pump! And I'm fine. Iron block here too.

Good luck with it.

 

If the fix is going to air to water not interested. I have no room to relocate battery in truck have nitrous back there and lots of stereo. I only seem to get the overheating in city with air on. Air off no problems even on really hot like 90 degree days. Air on on highway fine ,air on in city not fine.
I have iron block and currently the turbos are not being water cooled, only oil cooled.
Also using rad as tranny cooler along with aux tranny cooler since drive car in some pretty cold weather sometimes wanted to put some heat into the trans.

I am going to ERL aluminum engine shortly and will be installed the LG upgrades and will be hooking up water again. One of the stock aps turbos was internally cracked and letting coolant into oil. Was caught on initial start up and been running oil cooling only since. The mits turbos can do ok with just oil cooiling but sure it is heating up my engine probably quite a bit from that.

I am thinking to try the burkhart front bumper support if that helps let more air thru. Last resort would simply be to remove air. Almost never use it anyway.Lose some weight too.

 

Ahh forgot you did the oil cooling. Thats cool.

Honestly, thats what I did. I had to look at what I did with my car. I didnt use the A/C, I didnt daily drive the transam, cause I have the Z for that, and removing the A/C meant weight, engine bay room, and a little bit of airflow and cooling help.

I would say just remove it. Up to you of course though.

Why are you going to a Aluminum ERL engine man?

 

408 iron block is apparently fubared. I can't hold oil pressure when car warms up and there was bearing material when cut filter open. So out the 408 is coming and said if ever did that then would put in 427. Considered LSX 427 but decided might as well go back to Aluminum and ERL have good rep and offer them in 427 size. So ERL it will be. But its winter bad up here so order it likely january and try to have car up and running by april 1 or so. At same time can finally install new LG turbos. That will pretty much finish up the car.

I may take out air.have lots of vehicles to driver daily. Don't hardly ever use the air. Will see how it cools with aluminum block, will water cool the LG of course and will maybe not use built in rad cooler for trans. Then maybe it won't run that hot in city with air on. And its not like its that hot even in summer where I live.

 

What did the guy in Post # 3 tell you when you called him ?

P.s you have a private message

 

Any updates, Ideas ?

 

Why does the battery have to go in the trunk if you swap to air 2 water???

 

My99TAWS6, yeah man, you know Im pretty much in the same boat as you. Im just in the process of rebuilding mine. I thought about pushing it up to 408 stroker, but after seeing how much power some of these guys are making on 370ci, and stock crank, I think I'll be fine.

 

my car runs fine with all stock stuff. but i dont have a iron block so that should help at least you would think so.
and for this ERL 427, i think thats just nutz! thats just so much hp even on low boost. my little 364ci engine can get out of hand fast. and 1st and 2nd gear with 325/5015 MT DR is a tire hazing party on the street most of the time. id like to make a large bore and stock storke short block one day when this engine goes to the big race track in the sky LOL
but back on track id like to know why your car is getting so hot with the A/C on? im going to do some testing on my car with the A/C on this week.

 

No name electric water pump? The aluminum engine should cool easier and the water cooling should help keep turbo/oil temps down.

 

Just shooting another option out there that I have considered with my build which is almost that same as what you MY99TAWS6 are looking to switch to. I have thought about getting a smaller or differently shaped AC core that could be moved up into the bumper with its own electric fan. Then all you would have to do is make some custom length AC lines or at least extensions to get it where you want it and then have the system checked and recharged.

So maybe with a Ron Davis radiator and just the APS intercooler close together the temps won't be as bad and maybe even completely manageable because you have now spread your heat sources out and given the AC core its own fan and air flow. Just a thought as the cooling issue has been on my mind as well. It was either try this or do a good air to air intercooler up in the bumper with custom charge pipes. I figure I could try moving the AC core first as it would cost less to do and allow me to keep the really nice looking APS intercooler which I feel is also very functional and efficient.

Hope this offers another idea.

 

Good to hear some opinions and ideas guys. I said high flow no name water pump not electric one.

So far thing the following has to help.
1.Aluminum block over current iron one. Never ran the turbos with stock engine so no idea if that would have been better.
2. Of course use both oil and water cooling thru the LG turbos as said only ran the oil only since original aps had internal crack inside and didn't know which one so ran oil only to both.The oil is mandatory on the mits turbos , the water more optional.
3. Will get exhaust manifolds and turbo exhaust housings ceramic coated.
4. Will look into evans coolant maybe.
5. Might get this burhart front support if it will help airflow.
6. Should likely lose the rad trans cooling and go to just external trans cooling.
7. Still wondering if can fit pusher in front there and if there are better fans to replace stock ones with that would fit and with a shroud. Ron Davis is tight fit.
8. Still don't want to change out intercooler for air to water. I have no overheating problems when air is off around town even on very hot days. Just when run air around town ,on highway seem fine.
9. Taking out air is last option but as said would like to keep it.