Twin Turbo Kit
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What kit is the best for a 1999 TA
For a Street/Strip car!
Most complete (Little to no Fab)
Best Power
Cost
Quality
Read alot about APS but everyone said the turbo's are no good for the numbers I want to run. Looking to Make 900 to 1000 rwhp. Motor will be a 427, 8 1/2 to 1, great heads, turbo 400 and DTS 12 Bolt.
Any help would be great!
For a Street/Strip car!
Most complete (Little to no Fab)
Best Power
Cost
Quality
Read alot about APS but everyone said the turbo's are no good for the numbers I want to run. Looking to Make 900 to 1000 rwhp. Motor will be a 427, 8 1/2 to 1, great heads, turbo 400 and DTS 12 Bolt.
Any help would be great!
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the exterme aps kit would work. guys are running 5.30s in the 1/8
or if you get the LG turbos they are good for alot of power as well.
The aps kits are not that bad you just have to get around some of the short comings IE the turbos, and the inlets sucking shut but sides that i have had good luck.
you can see my times in my sig and i have a small 364ci engine.
so really, how fast do you want to go?
or if you get the LG turbos they are good for alot of power as well.
The aps kits are not that bad you just have to get around some of the short comings IE the turbos, and the inlets sucking shut but sides that i have had good luck.
you can see my times in my sig and i have a small 364ci engine.
so really, how fast do you want to go?
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Not sure if you can get aps kits new anymore. Might find one used. The standard aps turbos were likely knock offs on the f body kits. Maybe not every kit but quite a few died early deaths. Most guys with aps looking for around that 1000rwhp have gone with the LG upgrades. They will be fine to hit around 1000rwhp on a 427. Fact that is exactly what my combo is going to be next spring. My 408 which never did run the LG turbos on has died an early death it seems so will be upgrading to 427 this winter and will be running the Lg with that. Have zero worries about the Lg on the 427. They flow 70lb min per turbo.
Fact if you have never had a car with these power levels you will likely find that 600,700,800rwhp is lots lots on the street and even the track. Hooking up 1000rwhp is not that easy.
If you search out Big Birds posts he may have some more options for GT35Rs and stuff that would work on the aps system but again you have to get an aps system.
Modular turbo has their single and twin kits coming out sooner or later. Been a long time making them but they are taking their time to make sure they work and don't have any weak points. They might be a good alternative.
Aps has some other things about it besides the possible knock off turbos. Not much if any future parts or service it seems. You can make up a setup from various suppliers as well but there are not many actual bolt on twin kits out there.
Fact if you have never had a car with these power levels you will likely find that 600,700,800rwhp is lots lots on the street and even the track. Hooking up 1000rwhp is not that easy.
If you search out Big Birds posts he may have some more options for GT35Rs and stuff that would work on the aps system but again you have to get an aps system.
Modular turbo has their single and twin kits coming out sooner or later. Been a long time making them but they are taking their time to make sure they work and don't have any weak points. They might be a good alternative.
Aps has some other things about it besides the possible knock off turbos. Not much if any future parts or service it seems. You can make up a setup from various suppliers as well but there are not many actual bolt on twin kits out there.
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Sent you a pm on a Twin-turbo Incon kit. However, it won't work with a 427. They recommend close to stock CI's for them. Didn't read the part about the 427 til later, but it's still capable of 800 RWHP as it is, and capable of 1000 RWHP with the upgraded turbos.
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and im running a 325/50/15 MT DR at 15psi
so the 1000hp would have to be track only
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1000rwhp is dangerous on the street. even on 335 hoosier drag radials. 700rwhp is fun but anymore doesnt seem to go any faster, unless you like 80mph rolls. most people saying they want a 1000rwhp car...never rode in a 800rwhp car.
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My 99 came loaded but didn't get two factory options. 10 disc changer and traction control. Now really wish it had traction control that would help quite a bit. People say your right foot should be all you need but changing weather and road condtions can really make things interesting /downright scary.
I have been driving around with toyo tq drag radials since my car sees occasional rain. Running et street radials or et street full time you won't enjoy any rain at all.
I am looking at a few ideas to help with traction. One is to go to boost ramping. My eboost 2 can ramp by rpm, time or by gear. I am going to try ramping by gear for steet or by rpm and likely by time for track. Also considering a high end add on traction control made by racelogic company. Hear various good and bad about that system. Its variable so much better than on/off type of traction control setups.
I will also try out nitto 05R next season not overly impressed with the toyo tq drag radials. I have a pair of et street radials 275/40/17 but have not tried them yet and my car has not been to the track yet just used on the street and only with the 408 and only with the standard aps turbos running at like 7.5psi,no ramping,no traction control. No spray has been used yet either.
When my car was six speed running nitto 555R first it had no traction in first, second and a lot of third. Even heating up the nittos didn't help that much. As auto not much has changed the toyos are bit better than 555r work ok in rain but are not expected to last more than a 5000 miles or so which is about how many miles put on the car a season.
I did some time runs with the toyos on the street and best could get was a 2.17 and ran two best times on the street with my timing unit which is like a gtech and they were both 12.2 at 125mph with 2.29 60fts. That seems very slow but it was spinning thru 1st and 2nd even when heating them up some ,tried airing down the tires not much diff. Couldn't use the two step either it was completely blowing the tires off.
Had an extra 300 pounds on board,passenger and full tank of fuel. Just throwing out some data. Figure was maybe putting out 500rwhp at 7.5? Car has 4l80 in it. Car is super heavy around 4200 raceweight.
Realistically it seems around 500 engine about what comes on a new z06 is a nice sweet spot for streetable power. On the track on sticky tires depending on the tracks you can of course use a lot more. Doing high speed roll ons at 80mph or higher you can use quite a bit also. I have spun my tires at 80mph again just at 7.5 psi on standard turbos on the 408. 3.54 gears. Its a butt puckering experience but have learned to deal with it.
These fourth gens are usually pretty predicatable. Just let off throttle and they usually straighten out.
I am setting mine to do 1000rwhp mostly just for dyno bragging rights. I will be happy to run a lot less on street, happy to run Toms numbers at track thats plenty fast and requires a full rollcage at any nhra track and I am not putting a rollcage in my car not even sure am putting in rollbar which is required past 11.5 at nhra tracks.
There is old saying be careful what you wish for..that is pretty true when it comes to this big power number stuff. I always wanted a car that was traction limited not power limited. Well have achieved my wish.
I went up to the LG turbos for reliability reasons. Don't trust the standard likely knock off aps turbos. Fact one of mine was dud right from start it had internal crack that put coolant into my oil. Been running it on oil cooling no water cooling every since. That problem is maybe what killed my 408 bearings. Find out more on dissection.
Sending it back to aps was too much hassle their service is pretty much zero. I got some aftermarket turbo replacements off ebay but never installed them. The aps turbos kept making boost so kept running them no water cooling. They are still working 5000 miles or so later well seem to still be working didn't really check them will shortly when yank them for good but as said engine is fubard and has to come out now.
Also going to ERL 427 for few reasons. Iron block is heavy that was running ,fact went to strange coil over adjustables just to bring up the front end of the car. Between turbo kit weight and iron block car really sagged down. So ERL aluminum is light being just a stock engine reworked. And they are strong in superdeck form. And like bigger cubes for better hp and torque on and off boost. I will make same power as smaller engine at lower boost levels. Don't expect to have to run much over 10psi on the street and even occasional track but have no doubts the turbos should hit 1000rwhp at 20psi or so.
And as said hit that on dyno once good enough then dial things back down.
I like to stay alive and keep the shiny side up!
There is a reason my 99 is nicknamed "Death Wish"! take a drive/ride in it even at lowest boost and you will see why. A car even with 500rwhp or more demands a lot of respect. Get stupid with it and it can end you and others.
I have been driving around with toyo tq drag radials since my car sees occasional rain. Running et street radials or et street full time you won't enjoy any rain at all.
I am looking at a few ideas to help with traction. One is to go to boost ramping. My eboost 2 can ramp by rpm, time or by gear. I am going to try ramping by gear for steet or by rpm and likely by time for track. Also considering a high end add on traction control made by racelogic company. Hear various good and bad about that system. Its variable so much better than on/off type of traction control setups.
I will also try out nitto 05R next season not overly impressed with the toyo tq drag radials. I have a pair of et street radials 275/40/17 but have not tried them yet and my car has not been to the track yet just used on the street and only with the 408 and only with the standard aps turbos running at like 7.5psi,no ramping,no traction control. No spray has been used yet either.
When my car was six speed running nitto 555R first it had no traction in first, second and a lot of third. Even heating up the nittos didn't help that much. As auto not much has changed the toyos are bit better than 555r work ok in rain but are not expected to last more than a 5000 miles or so which is about how many miles put on the car a season.
I did some time runs with the toyos on the street and best could get was a 2.17 and ran two best times on the street with my timing unit which is like a gtech and they were both 12.2 at 125mph with 2.29 60fts. That seems very slow but it was spinning thru 1st and 2nd even when heating them up some ,tried airing down the tires not much diff. Couldn't use the two step either it was completely blowing the tires off.
Had an extra 300 pounds on board,passenger and full tank of fuel. Just throwing out some data. Figure was maybe putting out 500rwhp at 7.5? Car has 4l80 in it. Car is super heavy around 4200 raceweight.
Realistically it seems around 500 engine about what comes on a new z06 is a nice sweet spot for streetable power. On the track on sticky tires depending on the tracks you can of course use a lot more. Doing high speed roll ons at 80mph or higher you can use quite a bit also. I have spun my tires at 80mph again just at 7.5 psi on standard turbos on the 408. 3.54 gears. Its a butt puckering experience but have learned to deal with it.
These fourth gens are usually pretty predicatable. Just let off throttle and they usually straighten out.
I am setting mine to do 1000rwhp mostly just for dyno bragging rights. I will be happy to run a lot less on street, happy to run Toms numbers at track thats plenty fast and requires a full rollcage at any nhra track and I am not putting a rollcage in my car not even sure am putting in rollbar which is required past 11.5 at nhra tracks.
There is old saying be careful what you wish for..that is pretty true when it comes to this big power number stuff. I always wanted a car that was traction limited not power limited. Well have achieved my wish.
I went up to the LG turbos for reliability reasons. Don't trust the standard likely knock off aps turbos. Fact one of mine was dud right from start it had internal crack that put coolant into my oil. Been running it on oil cooling no water cooling every since. That problem is maybe what killed my 408 bearings. Find out more on dissection.
Sending it back to aps was too much hassle their service is pretty much zero. I got some aftermarket turbo replacements off ebay but never installed them. The aps turbos kept making boost so kept running them no water cooling. They are still working 5000 miles or so later well seem to still be working didn't really check them will shortly when yank them for good but as said engine is fubard and has to come out now.
Also going to ERL 427 for few reasons. Iron block is heavy that was running ,fact went to strange coil over adjustables just to bring up the front end of the car. Between turbo kit weight and iron block car really sagged down. So ERL aluminum is light being just a stock engine reworked. And they are strong in superdeck form. And like bigger cubes for better hp and torque on and off boost. I will make same power as smaller engine at lower boost levels. Don't expect to have to run much over 10psi on the street and even occasional track but have no doubts the turbos should hit 1000rwhp at 20psi or so.
And as said hit that on dyno once good enough then dial things back down.
I like to stay alive and keep the shiny side up!
There is a reason my 99 is nicknamed "Death Wish"! take a drive/ride in it even at lowest boost and you will see why. A car even with 500rwhp or more demands a lot of respect. Get stupid with it and it can end you and others.