Trans brake/ 2 step launch
Ground -> Button -> 2 step activation -> Diode -> Transbrake.
Put the banded end of the Diode should be toward the transbrake...(you should be able to verify this with a multimeter).
Get a 1 or 2 amp diode from radio shack.
This also assumes ground activation of the 2 step.
Put the banded end of the Diode should be toward the transbrake...(you should be able to verify this with a multimeter).
Get a 1 or 2 amp diode from radio shack.
This also assumes ground activation of the 2 step.
So on the banded end of the diode have the t brake wire running into the banded end, and on the other end of the diode have the 2 step act. wire running from that other end to the button itself, then on the other side of the button run that to ground.
Sound right?
Sound right?
Yep. Basically a diode is an electrical check valve, electricity can flow 1 direction, but not the other.
Just curious, who's 2 step?
If I wire it like I said in post 23 and this diode works like I think it does, it will only allow the ground signal that is coming from the transbrake to travel through the diode activating the 2 step when the button is pressed, correct?
Yep. Also you should still be ok with MSD's safety activation crap....still do like you did before with the shifter in 2nd, just press the button at idle.
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Verdad Gallardo Yea if I don't press the seperate two step button at the same time I start my stage it wont cut on because of that stupid 1/3rd rpm drop window it has to see or whatever. I should of got the LPE unit, but I had heard glitch problems with the LNC-002 so I was gonna wait for the new one with timing retard by boost psi but I decided to just go with the msd. I think my staging will be a lot more consistent and now I'll always be able to launch a hundred or two rpm before my converter stalls to give it that hit and help it flash through the stall instead of lugging on it the first 60-100' out the gate then coming alive.
You know what I just might set my 2 step at 3000rpm since thats what it stalls to on the footbrake when I'm in 3rd staging at 7psi so that it starts popping and cutting spark on the footbrake giving the turbo a lot more time to spool and then once I light the 2nd light downshift like I have been doing into 1st to set the t brake. I bet I'd still build 10psi of boost just at 3000rpm instead of 3600 or 3800 like I've been launching at. I bet that would give it one helluva hit to help flash through the converter.
u want to hook ur trans brake and 2 step together.
Dont worry about the diode dilema. just run the 12v act wire (white with blue stripes) on msd and hook it to ur + trans brake and then to a push buttom. Perf on the shifter ****. done. Ive been running this for well over a year with no issues.
Dont worry about the diode dilema. just run the 12v act wire (white with blue stripes) on msd and hook it to ur + trans brake and then to a push buttom. Perf on the shifter ****. done. Ive been running this for well over a year with no issues.
u want to hook ur trans brake and 2 step together.
Dont worry about the diode dilema. just run the 12v act wire (white with blue stripes) on msd and hook it to ur + trans brake and then to a push buttom. Perf on the shifter ****. done. Ive been running this for well over a year with no issues.
Dont worry about the diode dilema. just run the 12v act wire (white with blue stripes) on msd and hook it to ur + trans brake and then to a push buttom. Perf on the shifter ****. done. Ive been running this for well over a year with no issues.
u want to hook ur trans brake and 2 step together.
Dont worry about the diode dilema. just run the 12v act wire (white with blue stripes) on msd and hook it to ur + trans brake and then to a push buttom. Perf on the shifter ****. done. Ive been running this for well over a year with no issues.
Dont worry about the diode dilema. just run the 12v act wire (white with blue stripes) on msd and hook it to ur + trans brake and then to a push buttom. Perf on the shifter ****. done. Ive been running this for well over a year with no issues.
Jake's t brake uses a - not positive for activation.
Slow, you think that the hot 12v that feeds our tranny's for jakes box is giving the t brake power and that the only thing that completes it is the yellow ground? If that is the case shouldn't I be able to just hook the yellow t brake wire directly to the ground on the button and the msd 12v act. to the + side on the button?
This.
Jake's t brake uses a - not positive for activation.
Slow, you think that the hot 12v that feeds our tranny's for jakes box is giving the t brake power and that the only thing that completes it is the yellow ground? If that is the case shouldn't I be able to just hook the yellow t brake wire directly to the ground on the button and the msd 12v act. to the + side on the button?
Jake's t brake uses a - not positive for activation.
Slow, you think that the hot 12v that feeds our tranny's for jakes box is giving the t brake power and that the only thing that completes it is the yellow ground? If that is the case shouldn't I be able to just hook the yellow t brake wire directly to the ground on the button and the msd 12v act. to the + side on the button?
that's what I figured that it powered those also, but wouldn't that still work? And that way the t brake ground can't feed back into the 2 step since the button's circuit will not be complete, or do you think I will fry something this way?
No, when you shift its grounded through the transmission case. The Tbrake circuit is Tee'd into it this circuit.