Trans brake/ 2 step launch
I guess I'm not following you on what you wanted to do with the pink wire on the box.
So then why don't I just make the msd two step use 12v to activate it, and run it's 12v act. to one side of the button, and then run the t brake wire (yellow wire) to the other side? I don't see why this wouldn't work? And that should solve the problem of the t brake sending ground the two step making it come on if the 2 step is using 12v.
So then why don't I just make the msd two step use 12v to activate it, and run it's 12v act. to one side of the button, and then run the t brake wire (yellow wire) to the other side? I don't see why this wouldn't work? And that should solve the problem of the t brake sending ground the two step making it come on if the 2 step is using 12v.
How about this.
I have that relay here still I haven't left.
What if I take the one wire I have coming from the button to the 12v output on the relay, take the two step activation wire and put it on the 12v input on the relay, take the t brake wire and put it on the ground input on the relay, and then have one last wire run from the button to the on/off on the relay. Wouldn't that work and solve my two step activating in 3rd and 4th problem?
Yea there are only two.
How about this.
I have that relay here still I haven't left.
What if I take the one wire I have coming from the button to the 12v output on the relay, take the two step activation wire and put it on the 12v input on the relay, take the t brake wire and put it on the ground input on the relay, and then have one last wire run from the button to the on/off on the relay. Wouldn't that work and solve my two step activating in 3rd and 4th problem?
How about this.
I have that relay here still I haven't left.
What if I take the one wire I have coming from the button to the 12v output on the relay, take the two step activation wire and put it on the 12v input on the relay, take the t brake wire and put it on the ground input on the relay, and then have one last wire run from the button to the on/off on the relay. Wouldn't that work and solve my two step activating in 3rd and 4th problem?
If you want +12V to trigger the 2 step do this:
+12V to one side of your button. Other side to pin 85 on your relay, T this into your 2 step. Pin 86 to ground.
Pins 30 and 87 will be between ground and your Tbrake.
Here is how the relay is set up.
pin 30/51 is 12v out.
pin 86 is on/off switch
pin 87 is 12v in
pin 85 is ground
Knowing that now are you sure I would still wire it like you said or like I said?
pin 30/51 is 12v out.
pin 86 is on/off switch
pin 87 is 12v in
pin 85 is ground
Knowing that now are you sure I would still wire it like you said or like I said?
And neither does pins 87 or 30 (as far as which one is in or out).
Also pins 30/87 don't have to be 12V....its just like a switch, it can be +12V or ground.....
It just seems kind of weird to wire it that way. Seeing as I will be using 12v to activate the two step I figured it would need to be attatched to the 12v pin on the relay? and that the t brake would need to be attached to the ground pin?
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Verdad Gallardo Think of it this way, your using your TBrake button to activate the relay, and it closes the circuit between pins 87 and 30, sending a ground to your Tbrake.
The relay also needs +12v and a ground to make it work, and your triggering it with +12V. Just Tee into the +12V for your 2 step (when you trigger the relay, your also triggering your 2 step with the same +12V).
I am so confused man I don't understand why I am plugging a wire that needs to be activated by 12 volts into a pin on the relay that is ground.
I guess just tell me how to wire it up one more time and I'll try it. I just hate wiring, especially when I don't understand it.
I guess just tell me how to wire it up one more time and I'll try it. I just hate wiring, especially when I don't understand it.
I am so confused man I don't understand why I am plugging a wire that needs to be activated by 12 volts into a pin on the relay that is ground.
I guess just tell me how to wire it up one more time and I'll try it. I just hate wiring, especially when I don't understand it.
I guess just tell me how to wire it up one more time and I'll try it. I just hate wiring, especially when I don't understand it.
Pins 85/86 activate the relay.....pick whichever one you want for power/ground. It can be 85 ground 86 +12V or the other way around.
If your triggering your 2 step with +12V, then also trigger the relay with same +12V wire. If your triggering the 2 step with ground, then also trigger the relay with a ground also. Basically your button is triggering both the relay and the 2 step.
Pins 30 and 87 also don't matter, they just open and close, just like your t brake button. Put one end to ground and the other end to the TBrake.
Well i went with the diode instead of fooling with the relay.
I put the banded end towards the transbrake and its still cutting on in 3rd and 4th I am going to reverse it and see if it changes.
I put the banded end towards the transbrake and its still cutting on in 3rd and 4th I am going to reverse it and see if it changes.
It works, I got it to work now when the t brake button is pressed the 2 step works at the same time and it DOES NOT cut on in 3rd of 4th now that I reversed it.
Just for ***** and giggles, I prestaged the car like I do at the track in 3rd to see what rpm I build 7psi at. It happens at 2700rpm on the footbrake. So I set the 2 step at 2700rpm and prestaged in 3rd and as soon as I hit 2700rpm I got 8 psi....9 psi....10psi!!!! At 2700 rpm nonetheless! Down shifted and set the transbrake and let go, I swear it felt like the front end wasn't going to quit rising up up up up and then I let off and I've never felt my car's nose come down that much before.
Its really hitting the tires a lot harder and flashing the converter really hard now. I have a feeling I'm gonna cut some 1.4x 60's thursday!!! Maybe even a 1.3x!!! If I can cut a 1.3x 60' I know I will run a 6.30-6.40.
Just for ***** and giggles, I prestaged the car like I do at the track in 3rd to see what rpm I build 7psi at. It happens at 2700rpm on the footbrake. So I set the 2 step at 2700rpm and prestaged in 3rd and as soon as I hit 2700rpm I got 8 psi....9 psi....10psi!!!! At 2700 rpm nonetheless! Down shifted and set the transbrake and let go, I swear it felt like the front end wasn't going to quit rising up up up up and then I let off and I've never felt my car's nose come down that much before.
Its really hitting the tires a lot harder and flashing the converter really hard now. I have a feeling I'm gonna cut some 1.4x 60's thursday!!! Maybe even a 1.3x!!! If I can cut a 1.3x 60' I know I will run a 6.30-6.40.
It works, I got it to work now when the t brake button is pressed the 2 step works at the same time and it DOES NOT cut on in 3rd of 4th now that I reversed it.
Just for ***** and giggles, I prestaged the car like I do at the track in 3rd to see what rpm I build 7psi at. It happens at 2700rpm on the footbrake. So I set the 2 step at 2700rpm and prestaged in 3rd and as soon as I hit 2700rpm I got 8 psi....9 psi....10psi!!!! At 2700 rpm nonetheless! Down shifted and set the transbrake and let go, I swear it felt like the front end wasn't going to quit rising up up up up and then I let off and I've never felt my car's nose come down that much before.
Its really hitting the tires a lot harder and flashing the converter really hard now. I have a feeling I'm gonna cut some 1.4x 60's thursday!!! Maybe even a 1.3x!!! If I can cut a 1.3x 60' I know I will run a 6.30-6.40.
Just for ***** and giggles, I prestaged the car like I do at the track in 3rd to see what rpm I build 7psi at. It happens at 2700rpm on the footbrake. So I set the 2 step at 2700rpm and prestaged in 3rd and as soon as I hit 2700rpm I got 8 psi....9 psi....10psi!!!! At 2700 rpm nonetheless! Down shifted and set the transbrake and let go, I swear it felt like the front end wasn't going to quit rising up up up up and then I let off and I've never felt my car's nose come down that much before.
Its really hitting the tires a lot harder and flashing the converter really hard now. I have a feeling I'm gonna cut some 1.4x 60's thursday!!! Maybe even a 1.3x!!! If I can cut a 1.3x 60' I know I will run a 6.30-6.40.
And I wanted to say that this site has helped me more than anything.
The people I have met and the friends I have made at events, and from purchasing my first F-body off here, are priceless.
My main success when it has come to staging and getting this thing off the line harder has come from Slow67.
Mightymouse has also offered great words of wisdom when I get too big for my britches or try doing something too fast and the wrong way.
There are countless others like Nitroused383, 01Z28 and 00bluezsleeper have contributed to my build tremendously also.
Just wanted to say thanks again guys, I wouldn't be able to do it without ya'll!
The people I have met and the friends I have made at events, and from purchasing my first F-body off here, are priceless.
My main success when it has come to staging and getting this thing off the line harder has come from Slow67.
Mightymouse has also offered great words of wisdom when I get too big for my britches or try doing something too fast and the wrong way.
There are countless others like Nitroused383, 01Z28 and 00bluezsleeper have contributed to my build tremendously also.
Just wanted to say thanks again guys, I wouldn't be able to do it without ya'll!
I’m a lil confused on building boost on the foot brake...
How does the car build boost if the car is still in vacuum, the blow off valve will never shut.
I know you are loading the car on the foot brake but the blow off valve should still be seeing vacuum, not allowing boost to build. Or am I think of it wrong.. I was always under the impression you needed a TB to make any amount of boost as you can floor the pedal to get to the set rpm which in return the engine sees no vacuum on the blow off valve allowing boost to build..
How does the car build boost if the car is still in vacuum, the blow off valve will never shut.
I know you are loading the car on the foot brake but the blow off valve should still be seeing vacuum, not allowing boost to build. Or am I think of it wrong.. I was always under the impression you needed a TB to make any amount of boost as you can floor the pedal to get to the set rpm which in return the engine sees no vacuum on the blow off valve allowing boost to build..
I’m a lil confused on building boost on the foot brake...
How does the car build boost if the car is still in vacuum, the blow off valve will never shut.
I know you are loading the car on the foot brake but the blow off valve should still be seeing vacuum, not allowing boost to build. Or am I think of it wrong.. I was always under the impression you needed a TB to make any amount of boost as you can floor the pedal to get to the set rpm which in return the engine sees no vacuum on the blow off valve allowing boost to build..
How does the car build boost if the car is still in vacuum, the blow off valve will never shut.
I know you are loading the car on the foot brake but the blow off valve should still be seeing vacuum, not allowing boost to build. Or am I think of it wrong.. I was always under the impression you needed a TB to make any amount of boost as you can floor the pedal to get to the set rpm which in return the engine sees no vacuum on the blow off valve allowing boost to build..
Bypass is always open when there is vacuum to it
a BOV isn't open at all times when there is vaccum
This is also why you don't run a BOV on a blower car as it cause compressor surge when it flutters