Hopefully you can address the cam install and we can dyno it again. I willl say the Circle D TC worked flawlessly and held the power with no issues. On the NA pulls, maximum horsepower was a 33 degrees at WOT. This is much higher than it should be for 10.25 compression. As discussed, either the PCM does not reporting the actual timing or the ICL being to advanced is throwing everything off. The injector timing was modified, in both directions, and very little gain was observed. If the motor is lower in compression that we think, it would explain a few things too. If the L92 Heads are unmilled, 0.051" Head gasket, -12cc pistons, 4.03" Bore and 4.00" Stroke..............would yield around 10.25 CR. If you were 9.0:1, that would be something....wouldn't it?

 

Sounds like your cam is a tooth out. Those are slightly lower numbers than I made when mine was a tooth out the first time that I did a cam in my first 408. I lined up the dots but I had the slack on the wrong side of the chain.

 

I will be bringing it back to you Brian as soon as I get the cam timing changed. Your dyno looks like it would be a nice canidate for a traveling setup. Ever thought of taking it to the desert to do some tuning? I bet I could line up two or three days worth of tuning out here. I know of at least five cars here in Hobbs needing a good tune and dyno time, not to mention Odessa/Midland is very close, with a little advanced advertising we might be able to get you hooked up for a weeks worth of tuning.

I am on call this weekend so I plan on working on the cam timing then. If I do not get called out I will have it changed. I will keep in touch and let you know when I can get it back down to Austin.

I am going to get my build sheet out this week and look up the part numbers to the pistons and give Ross a call to verify the pistons are -12cc.

Anyone close to Austin needing tuning should get with Blacker, he will get you fixed up right, and he really does take the time to do your tune right.

 

Setting the cam up +6 degrees is pretty much making it a tooth off. I hope retarding it back to "dot to dot" makes it wake up. Funny, 844hp and I still think its asleep.

 

The dyno is very much portable and I have been thinking about those kinds of things. Power and water are the only requirements. Let me know what you find.

 

You should do a leak down test. I had a very similar set-up to you except it was 370ci. In N/A form it was 306/304 to the wheels and at 17 psi it was 713/745 to the wheels. Leak down test showed 40-50% on 3 cylinders. Upon tear down it was evident that the motor was shot but a leak down test might help you confirm that the motor's still healthy.

 

I am going to pull the engine out next month when I start moving the turbo up front. I plan to pull the pan, check the bearings, change the oil pump out, upgrade the rod bolts, and inspect every thing. I dought there is any thing wrong with the bores. If there was a problem with one of the bores I should be seeing crank case pressure. There are no signs of ring leakage.

I will probably bore scope the cylinders once the engine is out.

 

Will you be going back to the dyno after resetting the cam? Very interesting so far. Good Luck!

 

Yes, I am sure it will be back on the Dyno first chance I get. I will post new numbers when I get them.

 

OOPS!

Well, for all that has been following my turbo build I have some new info fo you.

I was running down the raod about 45mph, stepted into the throttle and as soon as the boost hit the tires broke loose. Then I heard a loud pop, the drivers side rear tire flew off the car and then it stid off the road. Everything was good until that stupid telophone pole jumped in the way. Hit it sliding side ways right infront of the front tire and it clipped the whole front end off the car. Took out the radiato and the intercooler, and bent the front frame rails. Good thing is the turbo was in the back so its ok, the engine did not get hit so its ok. The rear end looks goo, the drive line looks good. Now i either need another rolling chasy or I need to just chasy the car and put it back together again.

Thats what I get for not upgrading the wheel studs to 5/8"!

I was going to move the turbo up front, I guess my next ride will have plenty of room.

HAHAHA.

DANG!:ba ng:

 

who put your tire/wheels on?

 

Ill cut you a good deal on a notch roller

 

Me, I torqued them. I guess even though I had a Moser 9" in it, the 12mm wheel studs can NOT handle 844rwhp!

Oh well, i was running out of things to do to it anyways. I guess I got plenty of work now.

 

Looks like in in the market now . Got pics? How much and what details can you give me? I will pm you my email.

Thanks

 

sucks to hear.

i am working on a 1000hp build atm, never even thought about going to the bigger studs, only going with arp studs.

 

Better go with the biggst best you can get. Trust me they are cheep. As soon as I get my pics loaded I will post them.

 

You can see the wheel studs are gone.

 

Man that sucks. Gearheads can never catch a break. Your to calm about it too lol.

 

I am just glad my sons did not get hurt. Truth is the wheel was going to come off because of the 12mm wheel studs. I just hope I can pass on to everyone here making 800+rwhp that they really need to get 5/8" studs on. I did not even have my slicks or MT drag radials on it. Regular street tires! It could have been worst. When it comes back out it will be caged, maybe chassied, lighter, faster, and maybe even more power.

Can,t cry over spilt milk, it is just time to spike the milk with some whiskey!

 

The extended studs from Moser are no where near as strong as ARPs. Found that out after I had one completely disappear never
to be seen again. Replaced them with ARPs.

PS. you'll be drinking milk + whiskey off the floor, that's just sad and a horrible tasting combo... you must really be depressed.