Buying a Procharger
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
Buying a Procharger All:
Here is my list I plan on pulling the trigger on in the next few weeks. Let me know if I missed anything or if I need to look at something else in lieu of what I've listed.
D-1SC Head Unit
* Single FMI
* SD-Concepts 8 rib tension combo
* Red Race Bypass Valve - # Model: 3FASS-007 (Enclosed with steel flange)
* Standard gear set - I want to hear this thing!!
Auto Meter Triple Pillar Pod, 2-1/16" - Part #43-12213
* Auto Meter 4904 - Auto Meter Ultra-Lite II Analog Gauges - Boost Gauge
* Auto Meter 6563 - Auto Meter Ultra-Lite Digital Series Gauges - Fuel Pressure Gauge
* Auto Meter 4378 - Auto Meter Ultra-Lite Digital Gauges - A/F Gauge
Fuel System
* Racetronix Fuel Pump with Harness - RFPK-001
* 60-lb Siemen Injectors
I plan on keeping the natural finish look so I'll be going with the AL piping. I'm also considering a BAP with the racetronix pump (not sure yet) and the dual fan kit. Meth is also a consideration, but funds probably won't let me go this route until later in the year or next year.
Car has just over 20,000 miles on it and current mods are in signature.
Thanks for looking.
Here is my list I plan on pulling the trigger on in the next few weeks. Let me know if I missed anything or if I need to look at something else in lieu of what I've listed.
D-1SC Head Unit
* Single FMI
* SD-Concepts 8 rib tension combo
* Red Race Bypass Valve - # Model: 3FASS-007 (Enclosed with steel flange)
* Standard gear set - I want to hear this thing!!
Auto Meter Triple Pillar Pod, 2-1/16" - Part #43-12213
* Auto Meter 4904 - Auto Meter Ultra-Lite II Analog Gauges - Boost Gauge
* Auto Meter 6563 - Auto Meter Ultra-Lite Digital Series Gauges - Fuel Pressure Gauge
* Auto Meter 4378 - Auto Meter Ultra-Lite Digital Gauges - A/F Gauge
Fuel System
* Racetronix Fuel Pump with Harness - RFPK-001
* 60-lb Siemen Injectors
I plan on keeping the natural finish look so I'll be going with the AL piping. I'm also considering a BAP with the racetronix pump (not sure yet) and the dual fan kit. Meth is also a consideration, but funds probably won't let me go this route until later in the year or next year.
Car has just over 20,000 miles on it and current mods are in signature.
Thanks for looking.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
Not sure why my signature didn't show, but here are the current mods on the car.
Moser 9" w/LCA reloc brackets
4.11 gear
PST Aluminum 3.5" Drive Shaft
BMR LCAs
BMR 2-pt. weld-in SFCs
BMR Trak Pak Torque Arm
Koni 4/4 Shocks
Strano Springs
UMI on-car adjustable PHB
SLP LM2
SLP Blackwing Lid - This is going to be gone I know
Kooks 1-7/8" Race Style LTs
Kooks 3" ORY
No cats
Hurst Billet Shifter
Spec Stage 3+ clutch and steel flywheel
RPM Level IV T56
Nitto 555R DR's
SLP line lock
Car with above mods DYNO'd 330rwhp & 342rwtq on a Mustang DYNO
Moser 9" w/LCA reloc brackets
4.11 gear
PST Aluminum 3.5" Drive Shaft
BMR LCAs
BMR 2-pt. weld-in SFCs
BMR Trak Pak Torque Arm
Koni 4/4 Shocks
Strano Springs
UMI on-car adjustable PHB
SLP LM2
SLP Blackwing Lid - This is going to be gone I know
Kooks 1-7/8" Race Style LTs
Kooks 3" ORY
No cats
Hurst Billet Shifter
Spec Stage 3+ clutch and steel flywheel
RPM Level IV T56
Nitto 555R DR's
SLP line lock
Car with above mods DYNO'd 330rwhp & 342rwtq on a Mustang DYNO
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area, CA
SD-Concepts 8 rib tension combo or Alster's set up - Im going with the Alster set up. Bob @ Brute Speed sells them.
Also if you havent got the KIT yet? I would contact Bob @ Brute and he can put together a nice set up for you with the Alster 8 rib tension and the BIG RED....
How much HP are you wanting to get out of this?
Also if you havent got the KIT yet? I would contact Bob @ Brute and he can put together a nice set up for you with the Alster 8 rib tension and the BIG RED....
How much HP are you wanting to get out of this?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
SD-Concepts 8 rib tension combo or Alster's set up - Im going with the Alster set up. Bob @ Brute Speed sells them.
Also if you havent got the KIT yet? I would contact Bob @ Brute and he can put together a nice set up for you with the Alster 8 rib tension and the BIG RED....
How much HP are you wanting to get out of this?
Also if you havent got the KIT yet? I would contact Bob @ Brute and he can put together a nice set up for you with the Alster 8 rib tension and the BIG RED....
How much HP are you wanting to get out of this?
Jon, your car is so clean I hate to see you go with a front mount intercooler, if I were you I would stick with the twins. Bob
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
From what I've been told by another local shop (don't want to say who), they said all i would need to do is remove the front bumper support and "minimal to no trimming" would be necessary with the FMIC.
Steve Frost also told me that the twins aren't really all that efficient and actually run "warm" after mild drives. He said that they hardly are equipped well enough to handle 8psi, let alone any amount of boost higher than that.
I like to always get all opinions from everyone so I am just listing what others have told me.
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Verdad Gallardo Hey Bob,
From what I've been told by another local shop (don't want to say who), they said all i would need to do is remove the front bumper support and "minimal to no trimming" would be necessary with the FMIC.
Steve Frost also told me that the twins aren't really all that efficient and actually run "warm" after mild drives. He said that they hardly are equipped well enough to handle 8psi, let alone any amount of boost higher than that.
I like to always get all opinions from everyone so I am just listing what others have told me.
From what I've been told by another local shop (don't want to say who), they said all i would need to do is remove the front bumper support and "minimal to no trimming" would be necessary with the FMIC.
Steve Frost also told me that the twins aren't really all that efficient and actually run "warm" after mild drives. He said that they hardly are equipped well enough to handle 8psi, let alone any amount of boost higher than that.
I like to always get all opinions from everyone so I am just listing what others have told me.
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
How does a FMIC block the radiator when its feed (the radiator) comes from under the nose, not through it? Just wondering.
I don't have a billet grill, I have the aftermarket SLP 35th LE grille so that is why I am asking the question.
I thought what makes the cars run hot with A/C is having to lose the OEM fans to make room for the head unit.
Is this correct?
I don't have a billet grill, I have the aftermarket SLP 35th LE grille so that is why I am asking the question.
I thought what makes the cars run hot with A/C is having to lose the OEM fans to make room for the head unit.
Is this correct?
How does a FMIC block the radiator when its feed (the radiator) comes from under the nose, not through it? Just wondering.
I don't have a billet grill, I have the aftermarket SLP 35th LE grille so that is why I am asking the question.
I thought what makes the cars run hot with A/C is having to lose the OEM fans to make room for the head unit.
Is this correct?
I don't have a billet grill, I have the aftermarket SLP 35th LE grille so that is why I am asking the question.
I thought what makes the cars run hot with A/C is having to lose the OEM fans to make room for the head unit.
Is this correct?
Anything directly mounted in front of the radiator can cause problems, especially when talking about running hard on a road course like that C5 Corvette was. Bob
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
You will still get plenty of airflow to the radiator regardless due to the air dam below it directing the air to it.. personally id go with a FMIC instead of the twins due to the better cooling capacity and it just looks badass.. plus if you wanted to upgrade to a larger head unit later on you would have the fmic already
TECH Resident
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 873
Likes: 1
From: oakland, ca
If i had your car I would go with the twins as well. My car makes good power, and does not heat up and I have the 4.5 twins as well. I dont have any track times but I have put 2-3 cars on a car that runs 11.3 consistently..car never gets over 200 and oil temp never goes above 240..Thats with spirited driving.. I made over 575+rwhp
Jon,
Glad you came over here! Lots of good info here. About the FMIC thing. Well it is personal preference really. I ran the stock 3.5" Twins for about 7 years now and finally found an old EPP FMIC kit to try out now. I just switched so I can't yet say what it will do to my IAT's, but I know that after a pass at the strip or normal driving up to operating temp of the vehicle for around 15 min. or more those twin IC's were always warm to the touch afterwards. In the summer I would see as high as 130 degree IAT's even with the meth spraying a 50/50 mix. However that was in FL with high 80's to low 90's ambient temperature. My normal cruising IAT's were usually around 10-15 degrees higher than ambient. With the meth though I never had any knock and I keep my meth spraying in front of my IAT sensor so if the meth were to fail the computer will pull timing severely from the engine to compensate. A meth kit is cheap insurance but not necessary if you have a good tune. Plus your location of the country is more forgiving in the summer with the temperature and stuff.
Glad you came over here! Lots of good info here. About the FMIC thing. Well it is personal preference really. I ran the stock 3.5" Twins for about 7 years now and finally found an old EPP FMIC kit to try out now. I just switched so I can't yet say what it will do to my IAT's, but I know that after a pass at the strip or normal driving up to operating temp of the vehicle for around 15 min. or more those twin IC's were always warm to the touch afterwards. In the summer I would see as high as 130 degree IAT's even with the meth spraying a 50/50 mix. However that was in FL with high 80's to low 90's ambient temperature. My normal cruising IAT's were usually around 10-15 degrees higher than ambient. With the meth though I never had any knock and I keep my meth spraying in front of my IAT sensor so if the meth were to fail the computer will pull timing severely from the engine to compensate. A meth kit is cheap insurance but not necessary if you have a good tune. Plus your location of the country is more forgiving in the summer with the temperature and stuff.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
Hey Packy,
I've been over here a little while now, just don't post as much and usually just "lurk". Thanks again for all of your help and answering all of my questions. We do see high 80/90's and even warmer in the summer months here.
I have one more for you Bob, or whoever...
Will I be able to run my stock water pump with the Aster tensioner? Doesn't seem like I can from what I just read about it. I guess if not, it seems to be not that much more added cost in the scheme of things.
I got my first quote back - HOLY ****
I've been over here a little while now, just don't post as much and usually just "lurk". Thanks again for all of your help and answering all of my questions. We do see high 80/90's and even warmer in the summer months here.
I have one more for you Bob, or whoever...
Will I be able to run my stock water pump with the Aster tensioner? Doesn't seem like I can from what I just read about it. I guess if not, it seems to be not that much more added cost in the scheme of things.
I got my first quote back - HOLY ****
Hey Packy,
I've been over here a little while now, just don't post as much and usually just "lurk". Thanks again for all of your help and answering all of my questions. We do see high 80/90's and even warmer in the summer months here.
I have one more for you Bob, or whoever...
Will I be able to run my stock water pump with the Aster tensioner? Doesn't seem like I can from what I just read about it. I guess if not, it seems to be not that much more added cost in the scheme of things.
I got my first quote back - HOLY ****
I've been over here a little while now, just don't post as much and usually just "lurk". Thanks again for all of your help and answering all of my questions. We do see high 80/90's and even warmer in the summer months here.
I have one more for you Bob, or whoever...
Will I be able to run my stock water pump with the Aster tensioner? Doesn't seem like I can from what I just read about it. I guess if not, it seems to be not that much more added cost in the scheme of things.
I got my first quote back - HOLY ****
Yeah but dude in FL it stays like that at night from April to Oct. In Illinois it gets down in the 60's-70's at night and the humidity is no where close to as high as it is in Florida. I grew up there for the first 17 years of my life and it is much cooler there.
You will have to run an Corvette LS2 water pump or an electric one I believe.
I personally like my FMIC but then again I wasn't worried cutting her up a touch. The way people look at a domestic with a intercooler is nothing less then entertaining lol...especially when it has a uncanny whine to it lol. As said, the twin intercoolers work but aren't the most efficient. I think I was seeing 90* IAT's when it was in the 80's out. Either way will do. Aster's bracket is awesome and will be a great addition, especially when you want to turn the wick up later. You'll be fine on 10psi or less. Just make sure you get a good tune. I would strongly recommend running twin pumps from the start. Not having any fueling issues will make the difference between popping the motor or staying at 11.2 AFR's on a hot day. Their not expensive and could make the difference. Other then that you have a great start and are getting your parts from GREAT people. I bought my 9" and a bunch of other stuff from Bob. I'm looking forward to your build!