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Another Procharger truck inlet thread

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Old 12-29-2010, 10:17 PM
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Default Another Procharger truck inlet thread

Well I bought an EPP FMIC of of someone who never used it. So I go to install and I have everything on but the truck inlet tube will not sit above the charge tube on the drivers side. I have relocated my cruise control and meth kit so both are not in the way. I was thinking of maybe relocating the red race valve but looking at the angles and stuff that will not help either so I guess now I am going to try and fab my own style of inlet or hack up that section of pipe and relocate the BPV to the top. I am at a loss and feeling dumb since this is kicking my *** so bad. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Pics:








Last edited by Packy; 12-29-2010 at 10:59 PM.
Old 12-30-2010, 05:37 AM
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Ive read about this issue before, and from what I remember, the fix was to relocate the BPV to the top. However, with the pics you just posted, I don't know how that would help. Seems like the tube itself is in the way. Maybe you could just remake that tube. Here is what mine looks like in that location, and my truck hat & filter fit.





Its the 2 bottom pipes in the pic below:



These pics were taken before I painted the pipes. You can see the tubes better this way

And the truck hat & filter:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/12278352-post32.html
Old 12-30-2010, 10:01 AM
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Yeah the pipe is in the way. I had to change my driver's side also when I got a truck hat, since I had made it around the stock hat when I first made my fmic. My cruise control module is in the same place as yours, so I had my pipe cut a 90 right out of that hole to go toward the front of the car right in front of the cruise control before curving down and around into the intercooler. I wish I had taken pictures of it, but right now I don't want to take the bumper off.
Old 12-30-2010, 10:50 AM
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Aster: you need to come up with an intake hat!! haha
Old 12-31-2010, 02:06 AM
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Well I had a dandy old time driving home tonight. I had the pipe that connects with the head unit fly off on me while getting on the highway. What really sucked was using a spare hose clamp and a dime to tighten it on the side of the road since I had no t-bolts left. The regular hose clamp held better than the t-bolt did. I went WOT once and that red race valve sure does scream when you let off! Anyway I finally fixed my filter issue temporarily. I am going to just and make my own inlet and sell this damn truck inlet. Here is my temp fix and laugh all you want I was seeing more boost even with this POS filter on there. I think I may be in need of a re-tune. My boost gauge has never went above 10 psi and tonight I saw at least 10 maybe 11. The A/F crept up into the 12.2 range though.

Old 12-31-2010, 04:42 PM
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I had the same problem I moved the bypass valve to the top. It looks like the pipe is in the way but a 4" inlet x 9" long filter will fit. The filter will sit above the pipe
Old 12-31-2010, 06:54 PM
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I had the same thing not sure why EPP was shipping a kit that had this issue. First I tried fabbing my on inlet it flowed like **** waste of time and money. Then I got smart and moved the race valve. You can do two thing clock it 90* and leave in the same position thats what I did or put it up top where the fuse box is. If you don't have power steering it will go there too. I clocked mine so the race valve points towards the tire. I just had a shop cut off the flange with a torch weld it back and make a patch.

EPP used that truck inlet primarily on there shop race car which had power steering deleted or moved I believe and the fuse box was also relocated. There red race valve was up top hence why the truck inlet would fit fine on there car not so much with customer cars.
Old 01-02-2011, 07:55 AM
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You want to sell the factory inlet tube that goes on the filter?
Old 01-02-2011, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Packy
Well I had a dandy old time driving home tonight. I had the pipe that connects with the head unit fly off on me while getting on the highway. What really sucked was using a spare hose clamp and a dime to tighten it on the side of the road since I had no t-bolts left. The regular hose clamp held better than the t-bolt did. I went WOT once and that red race valve sure does scream when you let off! Anyway I finally fixed my filter issue temporarily. I am going to just and make my own inlet and sell this damn truck inlet. Here is my temp fix and laugh all you want I was seeing more boost even with this POS filter on there. I think I may be in need of a re-tune. My boost gauge has never went above 10 psi and tonight I saw at least 10 maybe 11. The A/F crept up into the 12.2 range though.
The good ol' hose clamp to the rescue. I could see how it would hold better as those t-clamps are solid and therefore, do not grab the rubbery plastic very well and can slide or come loose. Those hose clamps have those slits in them which help to grab whatever it is goin on and not move. Id just use the hose clamp on anything rubber/soft plastic so that is has the ability to grab good, esp where a lot of pressure is happening inside the pipe. Save the t-bolts for metal or other less-pressurized areas of pipe.



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