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Help deciding for a street monster

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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 10:03 AM
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Default Help deciding for a street monster

Looking to build a street monster with occasional track use. Car is pretty much gutted right now and my guess is it weighs 3050-3100lbs, and using a t-56 transmisson

I want to be able to run 9sec 1/4mile, And make 700-800 on the street, with possibilities of making 1000

I love the feel of a decent gear in a street car, and would love to keep a 3.55-3.73 gear ratio , Although i know its not best for a turbo car

I had my mind set on a turbo car, but i have open ears to a procharged/blower setup

I plan on making a quick spool valve to eliminate spool time, I want something that can make nasty power from 2500rpms+, and it street car suitable and dependable, and wont need to be rebuilt every 5,000 miles. Not wanting to drop 2,000 on a turbo alone.

So what kind of turbo/blower would help me achieve my goals?

Right now i have a stock cube ls1, but would like to move up to more cubes like 370-383ci

Last edited by Fondle; Jan 3, 2011 at 11:08 AM.
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 10:49 AM
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What tranny are u running?
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 11:08 AM
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t-56, i thought i posted that but i guess i forgot
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 11:19 AM
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Either an F1a with stock cubes

or

76GTS would be just right, not really a need for a spool valve on it but it would only help
3.55s with a T56 is perfect with a turbo
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 11:20 AM
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I vote f1-a procharger then
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Grr
Either an F1a with stock cubes

or

76GTS would be just right, not really a need for a spool valve on it but it would only help
3.55s with a T56 is perfect with a turbo
Could i make full boost in 1st gear with 3.55 with the 76?

i thought a f1 would be over kill for a stock cube ls1? When do the f1's make boost? Should i run low compression for a blower like you would a turbo?
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 11:36 AM
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F1 is not overkill, its less work to make the power thats all. they make boost as soon as you smack the pedal!

76GTS is the best turbo for a 350cid engine on the street IMHO. Depending on how you drive you could get anywhere from 5-15psi out of it off the line in 1st. MSD 2-step is cheap otherwise!!

I would stick with 10:1 with either option
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 11:40 AM
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With my current setup i think i am around 10.8:1, what heads could i put on to lower compression but still flow good enough to reach my goals?

Also, how safe is a 383 ls1/6 with boost? will i have to worry about the strength of the block itself with 15-18lbs of boost? Would it need to be sleeved?
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 11:43 AM
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Since you already have a good setup, I personally would go with a blower. You could bolt it on in basically a weekend
Do you have E85 availible? 10.8 with E85 and a blower is perfect. Block will be fine at 7-800whp Even a D1 would make a good 700whp with your setup if you want to go that route, would be alot easier to package as well
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Grr
Since you already have a good setup, I personally would go with a blower. You could bolt it on in basically a weekend
Do you have E85 availible? 10.8 with E85 and a blower is perfect. Block will be fine at 7-800whp Even a D1 would make a good 700whp with your setup if you want to go that route, would be alot easier to package as well
Well it seems like everyone i know has belt slip issues with blowers, and i have owned turbo cars before and like being able to adjust boost levels with a dial or click of a button instead of buying/swapping pulleys, so thats why i want to go turbo route, and im also looking forward to a new fabricating project

E85 is available, but not exactly close, nearest place is a 35minute drive on the opposite side of town

i was thinking about running my current setup on low boost( 4-6lbs) until i can afford a forged shortblock with some pistons to lower my compression instead of swapping to different heads
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 12:00 PM
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Ive owned a turbo ls1, numerous turbo cars, and a YSi blown LT1. I preferred the turbo cars as well, but the blown car was awesome. No belt issues with what is out now for brackets and such so thats no worry. Fact is I made everything for my turbo setup, and my blower brackets, and pulleys. If I had to do it all over in an F body again i would definately go with the blower again, I LOVED my YSi and am looking to put one on my z28 again in the future, or a F1a/c. There is just no room in there, and I dont trust buying a premade kit
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 12:03 PM
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BTW, i lived down there for awhile, Love that area, had plenty of racing in the ATX, Leander, round rock area! miss that place
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 12:06 PM
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ya i love the area as well.

Are there any turbos comparable to the 76gts without the 1,500$ price tag?
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 12:16 PM
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garrett GT42 (gt42 is basically a GTS) can be had used for 700-1000, or forcedinductions GT76 is 1100, GT80 is 1200. All are great units
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Fondle
ya i love the area as well.

Are there any turbos comparable to the 76gts without the 1,500$ price tag?
S400sx3, $800, t4 1.10 83mm turbine, no need for a spool valve, instant spool and can make at a minimum 800whp.
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 02:20 PM
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If your gonna stay 6 speed, I would go with a F1 series blower IMO. It will easily put out 7-800rwhp, but it can put out more like 850+ if you want it. Your on FSC arent you? Your on FSC right? Aster on that board makes a custom bracket that eliminates belt slip. Im running one on my car with a D1SC. My car made 780rwhp on the new tune.
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 02:48 PM
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ya im boosted6 on fsc. i know they make a bracket but thats another 1,000$ i didnt want to have to spend just to resolve an issue
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Fondle
Well it seems like everyone i know has belt slip issues with blowers,
You know me and know I have 2 blower cars. Did you ask me? I have no belt slip issues with either. Had belt slip with the Procharger but fixed it. I'm not shooting for 800 RWHP, but both of my cars are completely reliable and fun at their current power levels.
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 11:35 AM
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Well pretty much have what you said you wanted. If you meant 800 to 1000 at engine.
Some ideas for you.

I prefer turbos. Better powerband than centrifugal supers ,can hit full boost at like 3000 and carry it to redline.Easier to set up things like boost ramping by gear,rpm or time so you can help in the traction area. Love the turbo sounds and the blow offs. Don't like idle rattle that heard on most centrifugals.
Budget tips and other ideas.

Engine..iron block 370 is good way to go. Put in forged pistons,rods and stock crank you should be good for 800 for sure some guys have gone 1000 on them. Pretty cheap way to do it.No real need for forged crank up to about 1000engine but 1000 rwhp yeah would go forged. No real need to go 408 or punch out the iron block. Can also do pretty good with even ls2 with forged pistons and rods and stock cranks as well.

More displacement has advantages of course.Quicker spool up which is good on big laggy turbos,more power on and off boost. So if you are not on budget then sure go for 402,408,427. And of course that means forged crank for those.
Tranny ,well six speeds don't build boost off the line worth crap but with a two step they will and or antilag. Lingenfelter add on unit has antilag and two step. msd like have now onlly has two step.

Autos can be pain getting good clutch ,likey need to go dual or triple disc. And t56 would need a lot of strengthening to survive at 800 to 1000 engine very long. So plan on big t56 upgrades.
I went auto ,was sick of t56 and clutches,master and slaves. Happy with swap. A good stall and on two step can make easy boost off the line. Big boost off the line if want to.No lose of boost between shifts either. And my built 4l80 by rpm should take big power.

Haven't run it much past maybe 650 engine so far but even that power level is pretty crazy on any street car and traction is hard to find on anything other than like et street radials.And even then on street can be tough.I still have to try boost ramping never did yet but hopefully this year.
Also if you want to go auto for cheap a turbo 400 is simple and effective swap.Rear end well of course you are going to need something there ,cheapest route is likely moser 9 inch empty and find carrier in wrecking yard or something maybe.I went with dana 60.

Fuel system need twin pump setup like I have for up to 1000rwhp. I have lonnies setup. full meal deal. And of course you need bigger injectors like 80s or bigger.
I like twin turbos and like my aps kit but don't like trust the standard aps turbos. I got the LG upgrades but never installed them last season lost 408 last season not really sure what happened yet.Will know more on dissection but going as you see to ERL 427 now.

If you can get an aps kit for say 3000 to 4000 would be good deal if you then get upgrade turbos.Rest of kit is pretty nice.
Master power has some good cheaper turbos that many guys run.You could fab up your setup with parts from various sponsors,ebay ,etc. Single turbos are of course easier to do.
But twins can give faster spool,wider powerband ,are louder,as said I just like twins.

Tomz28 has good example of aps ls2 car that has hit 9s.Its street car not stripper .So read his threads. He had t56 and swapped over to 4l80 like me.

Oh and my main goals were pretty simple.My car was to be a 99% true street car. But did want to be able to hit a 9 even 9.99 at track at some point but then retire from track and just keep it street/show car.
So with that in mind went with mild cam. gt7 lingenfelter in 408 likely use ls9 in 427 or move my gt7 over. Pretty mild,easy to tune, no low speed surge. Turbos make the power mostly can run milder cam in turbo car.Went with 3.54 gears. I dont really like wimpy gears off boost in a heavy like 4200 pound car. And Dana don't give you option to go lower than 3.54 anyway.They seem fine. And went with streetable yank py3400e stall. You can feel it slip a bit driving around but not too bad.

Went with 4l80 to keep overdrive . So nothing too radical nothing unstreetable. Have big stereo, no weight reduction really at all and 4l80 is heavy,dana is heavy, turbo kit is heavy and iron block was heavy at least going to lose 100 pounds or so with the 427 aluminum engine.fact had to change out front springs to strange adjustables to bring the front end back up after the 408 swap.

Most people in my car that have riden or driven it can't say enough how very streetable it is.Its a car granny can take to the store. But put it into boost even baby boost giving like said maybe 650engine and its a tiger and handful and scary and big fun. The old saying be careful what you wish for applies big time to these monster cars.

As for supers been a few procharged cars. They impressed but not nearly as much as a turbo car. They were a bit more controllable for traction as boost comes on with rpm and you don't have the powerband or huge dyno mountain a turbo car can give. Only a roots type super can give more down low and carry it thru the range to really compare with turbo car and then you have even more problems getting traction down low.And less efficient but still plenty of fun. I am considering a edelbrock blower if get new camaro for wifey.
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 12:39 PM
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Thanks for all the good info, I would also like to keep this a 95% street car. Although I know an automatic will give me all around better performance, I just can't do it. I love having a t56 especially for a street car

I am for sure going to do a turbo, and most likely stay with an aluminum block

How do the stroked 383 ls1/6 do with turbo and handling boost? I'm leaning toward that option if not I want to go with an ls2
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