LS2 APS w/lg turbos (part 3) going BIG! (Results)
05-27-2011, 08:45 PM
#89
9 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Saline, MI
Posts: 1,813
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
unlocked 4L80+3600 stall=power hog
numbers mean nothing its all about the times. about to get back to the track in a few weeks.
915hp? what kind of dyno was it? and is your aps kit a base kit or a extreme kit?
numbers mean nothing its all about the times. about to get back to the track in a few weeks.
915hp? what kind of dyno was it? and is your aps kit a base kit or a extreme kit?
05-29-2011, 09:14 AM
#91
Bigger engine. Six speed versus unlocked auto.
Different turbos with vary diferrent airflow. All make differences in the bottom line rwhp numbers. But really both of these turbos will put out more than enough power for any sane person. And doubt either car could hook anywhere near full power potential of either turbo.
Which should be like 1400 engine hp on the LG and around 1500 or more on the GT35R variants.
I am going to try a lot of things this season to hook up my new setup. Going to try boost ramping by gear or rpm, maybe by time for its couple of planned actual track runs.
Might even pick up racelogic variable traction control setup and will be trying out my et street radials this season toyo drag radials were pretty much useless on the street which was running last season at only 7.5psi on the 408. Gearing of course comes into this and stall converter. Things get bit more complicated with autos. And autos can also build way more boost on the line with not near as much two step or antilag needed.
Also BB turbos are well suited for stick cars where you lose boost each shift.Quicker transient response and likely bit quicker spool up as well.
The LG are non BB but are fine in auto applications. And would still think my LG should spool up and hit full by 3000 or so maybe even lower down. Find out hopefully in a few weeks.
Different turbos with vary diferrent airflow. All make differences in the bottom line rwhp numbers. But really both of these turbos will put out more than enough power for any sane person. And doubt either car could hook anywhere near full power potential of either turbo.
Which should be like 1400 engine hp on the LG and around 1500 or more on the GT35R variants.
I am going to try a lot of things this season to hook up my new setup. Going to try boost ramping by gear or rpm, maybe by time for its couple of planned actual track runs.
Might even pick up racelogic variable traction control setup and will be trying out my et street radials this season toyo drag radials were pretty much useless on the street which was running last season at only 7.5psi on the 408. Gearing of course comes into this and stall converter. Things get bit more complicated with autos. And autos can also build way more boost on the line with not near as much two step or antilag needed.
Also BB turbos are well suited for stick cars where you lose boost each shift.Quicker transient response and likely bit quicker spool up as well.
The LG are non BB but are fine in auto applications. And would still think my LG should spool up and hit full by 3000 or so maybe even lower down. Find out hopefully in a few weeks.
Last edited by MY99TAWS6; 05-29-2011 at 09:23 AM.
05-29-2011, 10:52 AM
#93
05-29-2011, 03:41 PM
#94
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 351
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No track times, I'm not really a track guy. I just drive it around town and to work sometimes. I put about 500 miles on it last 2 years if that says anything..
05-29-2011, 04:56 PM
#95
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: ATX©
Posts: 798
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
KWIKKAR's setup surprised us all. Jordan, please correct me if anything is incorrect, but It seems every time you get on here, people question and doubt your car. I personally witnessed the cars progression, going back to 2002 when we used to street race against each other.
The bottom end is a Katech 402ci with out of the box AFR's (except PRC HD Springs/Retainers). I don't remember the compression ratio or camshaft setup. After the stock turbos gave out on the dyno, he upgraded the CHRA's, compressor covers and wheels. The turbine housings/exhaust wheels are still the standard APS T28's. He also has a pretty trick sway bar setup, including spacers and cut/rewelded end links. This is not an APS "Extreme" kit, but obviously not an out of the box standard kit. Fuel consist of Lonnie's twin Walbro setup and 80lb injectors. Drivetrain is a T56, Ram 900 Twin Disc, and a Moser 12 bolt.
After everything was dialed in and the EBoost configured on the street, it went on a Dynojet 224.
Car made over 970 rwhp at 19-20lbs. The spool time is incredible...Hits like a nitrous car. It's come a long way from 2002, and is by far one of craziest cars I have driven on the street.
-W
The bottom end is a Katech 402ci with out of the box AFR's (except PRC HD Springs/Retainers). I don't remember the compression ratio or camshaft setup. After the stock turbos gave out on the dyno, he upgraded the CHRA's, compressor covers and wheels. The turbine housings/exhaust wheels are still the standard APS T28's. He also has a pretty trick sway bar setup, including spacers and cut/rewelded end links. This is not an APS "Extreme" kit, but obviously not an out of the box standard kit. Fuel consist of Lonnie's twin Walbro setup and 80lb injectors. Drivetrain is a T56, Ram 900 Twin Disc, and a Moser 12 bolt.
After everything was dialed in and the EBoost configured on the street, it went on a Dynojet 224.
Car made over 970 rwhp at 19-20lbs. The spool time is incredible...Hits like a nitrous car. It's come a long way from 2002, and is by far one of craziest cars I have driven on the street.
-W
05-29-2011, 08:46 PM
#96
9 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Saline, MI
Posts: 1,813
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
no one is doubting anything. but you cant compare apples to oranges
ive used many kinds of chassis dynos mustang dynos do not work the same as a dynojet. there for the read lower than a dynojet. than you have a car thats M6 and one with a unlocked 4L80. ive seen guys lose 100rwhp on the dyno after swaping to a A4 from a M6. but in the end a chassis dyno is just a tool and track times give us a better idea of ture power. thats what im trying to say.
going to a auto in my car was by far the best mod i have ever done
ive used many kinds of chassis dynos mustang dynos do not work the same as a dynojet. there for the read lower than a dynojet. than you have a car thats M6 and one with a unlocked 4L80. ive seen guys lose 100rwhp on the dyno after swaping to a A4 from a M6. but in the end a chassis dyno is just a tool and track times give us a better idea of ture power. thats what im trying to say.
going to a auto in my car was by far the best mod i have ever done
05-30-2011, 12:56 AM
#97
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: ATX©
Posts: 798
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
no one is doubting anything. but you cant compare apples to oranges
ive used many kinds of chassis dynos mustang dynos do not work the same as a dynojet. there for the read lower than a dynojet. than you have a car thats M6 and one with a unlocked 4L80. ive seen guys lose 100rwhp on the dyno after swaping to a A4 from a M6. but in the end a chassis dyno is just a tool and track times give us a better idea of ture power. thats what im trying to say.
going to a auto in my car was by far the best mod i have ever done
ive used many kinds of chassis dynos mustang dynos do not work the same as a dynojet. there for the read lower than a dynojet. than you have a car thats M6 and one with a unlocked 4L80. ive seen guys lose 100rwhp on the dyno after swaping to a A4 from a M6. but in the end a chassis dyno is just a tool and track times give us a better idea of ture power. thats what im trying to say.
going to a auto in my car was by far the best mod i have ever done
Pretty awesome if you ask me.
05-30-2011, 09:02 AM
#98
9 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Saline, MI
Posts: 1,813
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I agree.. Drivetrain loss is a bitch especially on a car that was not built for the track. KWIKKAR's car is just a badass street car. Full interior, A/C, all the amenities, full weight, no cage, drives like stock, and makes 1000 to the wheels with some baby T28 turbos....
Pretty awesome if you ask me.
Pretty awesome if you ask me.
05-30-2011, 09:28 AM
#99
I drove my 99TT frequently till the 408 went south near end of last season.I have to put the car away for 5 months or so due to our winter but moving to warmer place next spring where can get another two months or so driving time in on my toys. I also have been driving my recently aquired z06 a lot lately especially since my 99TT is apart. Not afraid to drive them. Some people die with low mileage cars in their garage only driving them when its "perfect" out and of course it never is. Always too windy,too rainy, too much gravel on streets,some excuse.
Drive your cars ,enjoy them!
Also like to say that my 99TT is super streetable. Everything on the car was picked to be very streetable. 3.54 gears, automatic now so even better in heavy traffic,mild cam no low speed surge and easy to tune. Car is super docile in traffic ,your grandma could drive it but get into it and it has more power than any sane person would ever use and that was just with the 408 and standard turbos at 7.5psi! Went up in cubes and turbo size more for reliability reasons and bit more off boost power and likely will never dial it up much past 10psi.
So Kwikkar you should go out there and drive your car! I am in serious boost withdrawal right now. Been too long since drove my 99TT. And my other turbo beast my 97 talon is also down with engine problems. Murphy's law can be a bitch! LOL
Nice to see Tom get thru all his problems in the past and looks like he has a nice wicked ride now.One of these days Tom you will have to come up and visit me up in the Great White North.
Also not sure following about the t28?? The standard aps turbos are 20g variants mits 20gs. The LG are just modified 20gs also. On auto cars not much need for Ball bearing turbos they are more useful on manual cars as they have quicker transient response after shifts and can give quicker spool up but the lg should still spool up plenty quick especially on a bigger than stock cube engine.
05-30-2011, 11:25 PM
#100
This has been said before and I'm sure it will be said again....Not driving and keeping miles off your car is like saying you don't wanna **** your girlfriend too much for her next boyfriend. If you have the car drive it. I ran engine dynos for 4 years. Every dyno WILL read different...even down to the atmospheric conditions make a huge difference. I could make the dyno say just about anything I wanted by changing inputs. Like Tom said that's a apple to orange comparison. 402ci vs 364ci, 20psi vs 16psi, M6 vs 4L80. Like Tom said no one is doubting your car but once again don't compare apples to oranges...I bet my car will put down more rwhp then Toms once I turn the boost up....will it set better track times? NO lol