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**LMR Standing Mile Camaro Build Begins**

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Old 01-21-2011, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by GoldRust
You should be able to get it done. just make sure your tires are in good shape for the front, I run mickey thompson drag radials with great success. have them balanced before the event. The most important thing is the DRIVE SHAFT. Do not use a factory shaft. I recomend Either Drive Shaft Shop or Inland Empire and just tell them what your doing. As for aerodynamics, I belive you will be fine untill you try for big speeds 220+.
Thanks, I was actually talking to inland about getting one made

you just have the tires balanced at a normal tire place? Nothing special? I assume a "road force" balance might be better...

another thing i was wondering about.. Alignment. Do you guys run additional caster for high speed stability, or any toe out or anything like that?
Old 01-21-2011, 02:44 PM
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Yes we do have a rear diffuser and a adjustable splitter in the front. I have specially valved shocks as well. Other than that it is very low and very stiff. We have also blocked off the opening for the rear wing.

As for alignment we take the caster out of it and try to set toe at the ride height it would be at, at speed.
Old 01-21-2011, 04:05 PM
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Only aspect with tyres. Make sure they have air in them, and either stubby valves or bolt in metal valves should be used.

Normal long rubber ones can flex and possible cause problems. Chances are slim, but the most important part on the car for doing any speed....is the fact your tyres stay inflated !!
Old 01-21-2011, 04:13 PM
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I thought I saw that drag radials were a no no on cars over 190 for the mile? I could be wrong here though.
Old 01-21-2011, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by HydroStream6
I thought I saw that drag radials were a no no on cars over 190 for the mile? I could be wrong here though.
No idea what rules some places have.

But Ive used Nitto's, MT DR's and Hoosier DR's all at 190+ and over 1 mile distances.

Nitto and MT felt perfectly fine. But the road surfaces were good and the weather conditions good.

When I ran recently on Hoosiers, well inflated to around 30psi. I was still breaking traction at 180/190mph, and as you'd expect, it scared the **** clean out of me
But the track I was racing on was quite bad. Tarmac runway that hadnt been used for some time, so there was a light covering of moss. Was also damp from rain earlier in the day. Was also a bit windy.

Pretty stupid to be doing such speeds....but I wanted that 200+ !!! ( and got it )

Although I did the 200 run on Toyo 888's and although traction was still poor, the car felt pretty stable.
Old 01-21-2011, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by HydroStream6
I thought I saw that drag radials were a no no on cars over 190 for the mile? I could be wrong here though.
You're absolutely right. The TX Mile mandates the use of ZR rated rubber if attempting over 190mph. If you run anything else and go for 190+ anyway they fine then ban you. Only option as far as race rubber is to go with hoosier road race slicks; ZR rated. Surprisingly, most guys are running std street rubber or nitto 555s.
Old 01-22-2011, 12:12 AM
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Old 01-22-2011, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 93formto98T/A
You're absolutely right. The TX Mile mandates the use of ZR rated rubber if attempting over 190mph. If you run anything else and go for 190+ anyway they fine then ban you. Only option as far as race rubber is to go with hoosier road race slicks; ZR rated. Surprisingly, most guys are running std street rubber or nitto 555s.
A lot of Hoosier R6s out there along with the R888 this past fall. This race isnt the first 330ft like the quarter mile.
Old 01-22-2011, 01:11 AM
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I see a lot of people running Nitto Invo's.
Old 01-22-2011, 02:00 AM
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This is just a crazy beautiful built!!!!
Old 01-22-2011, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 93formto98T/A
You're absolutely right. The TX Mile mandates the use of ZR rated rubber if attempting over 190mph. If you run anything else and go for 190+ anyway they fine then ban you. Only option as far as race rubber is to go with hoosier road race slicks; ZR rated. Surprisingly, most guys are running std street rubber or nitto 555s.
Thats interesting to hear since Maxton has pretty strict rules but I am pretty sure they allow drag radials.
Old 01-22-2011, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Only aspect with tyres. Make sure they have air in them, and either stubby valves or bolt in metal valves should be used.

Normal long rubber ones can flex and possible cause problems. Chances are slim, but the most important part on the car for doing any speed....is the fact your tyres stay inflated !!
+1 This is a real issue...NAPA has good metal valves for about $3.00 each. The rubber ones WILL bend over at speed.
Old 01-22-2011, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by GoldRust
The most important thing is the DRIVE SHAFT. Do not use a factory shaft. I recomend Either Drive Shaft Shop or Inland Empire and just tell them what your doing.
Josh do you care to elaborate? Ive been about 175 on my stocker and it felt silk smooth. is RC's car gonna be ready too?
Old 01-22-2011, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by CarsandWomen
Josh do you care to elaborate? Ive been about 175 on my stocker and it felt silk smooth. is RC's car gonna be ready too?
The only thing that matters is the shaft is strong enough.

And you do not approach the shaft's critical speed.
Old 01-22-2011, 10:42 PM
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A tall road race slick is the hot tire for mile racing since they are speed rated, have decent forward bite and will drop driveline speeds per MPH. We were very traction limited at around 900 whp in Miami with a 28x10ish road race slick. A lot of guys wind up turning down the boost to limit wheel spin and go faster...
Old 01-23-2011, 01:03 AM
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I can't wait to see what its gonna do, make sure you guys get some video. Good luck!!!
Old 01-26-2011, 01:54 AM
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What sort of power do you need to see north of 250mph?
Old 01-26-2011, 09:58 AM
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At those speeds aero and cd comes into play more than anything. Aside from that you will need sufficient downforce to maintain traction. With a vette I would guesstimate a minimum of 1500rwhp with excellent traction in a standing mile setting.
Old 01-26-2011, 07:50 PM
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FWIW, here are some interesting wind tunnel measurements:

http://www.fastestlaps.com/forum/vie...8b7f50e039302a

The Z06 CdA @ 0.64, ZR1 CdA @ 0.66. They don't have measurements for the C6 coupe or any model/year camaro, though the C6 has a smaller frontal area and Cd than the Z06 so would probably be close to 0.60.

Note that these numbers compare favorably to the Gallardo, GT, GTR shapes, though they produce some lift at 200km/h as opposed to being neutral or small downforce.

The 997 Turbo has some great numbers, 0.59 CdA and a small amount of lift at the front. I would guess the C6 coupe is similar but with more lift.

I would also guess that the Supra shape is fairly efficient, with its small frontal area. Don't know for sure though... anyone?

EDIT: Found one source that cites 0.62 CdA... though it is based on an estimate of frontal area x Cd of 0.32. http://carspector.com/car/toyota/010706/
Old 01-27-2011, 09:16 AM
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Heres an interesting site....

only cd's though, not cd*a.....which is the real story right?

I did notice that they have different numbers then the fastest laps site.....like the gtr, is .27 I think on wiki, but .32 or something on fastestlap...

interesting, but maybe the actual numbers are not that reliable, only there standing in comparison to others from the same tunnel. JUST LIKE a DYNO.....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automob...ag_coefficient

on a side not, I was curious about the honda insight.... .25 cd, and A = 1.9..
its around a .475 cd* a.................the mercedes e class is reportedly the lowest cd of .21 to .24 depending on were the info comes from. The cd*a is obviously higher due to its size. I wonder if merecedes uses happy wind tunnels....like happy dynos though.

The gm ev1 blows them all away......cd of .19

Last edited by 1320; 01-27-2011 at 09:33 AM. Reason: more info


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