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S10 Front mount turbo.

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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 01:38 PM
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Default S10 Front mount turbo.

Hello.

I am going to be starting my lq4 swap into my s10 in about a month. I have $4600 in parts now, and have another $7k to spend.

The Turbonetics GTK-650, will be what I am using.

I was going to do a rear mount turbo, but I found this turbo and it is beautiful... So I want it to be under the hood so it can be seen.

So my question is does anyone have links or pictures to front mount s10 turbo setups.

I am having trouble figuring out space for my downpipe. I am putting the turbo where the battery is on the passenger side. And I am keeping the ac. I was wanting to use a 3" downpipe, but I don't think I will have the room, so I will use a 2.5" downpipe.

I might put it on the drivers side.. It all depends.

Thanks in advance for any help.
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 09:43 PM
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Put it where the factory air box was. Find out where you can fit your 2.5 or 3 " pipe.
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 10:24 PM
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I have an lq4 in my 94 s10. You could get a 3" down pipe down the passenger side easily if you notch the inner fender some.
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by SUPERWAKE502
I have an lq4 in my 94 s10. You could get a 3" down pipe down the passenger side easily if you notch the inner fender some.
Do you have AC though?

I wish I had my garage right now, so I could start... but I have one more month to wait.

I only started the thread because I don't have the motor in the truck yet. And I like to order parts so that I can start the project without having to wait on parts.
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 12:33 AM
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There is more than enough room for a turbo and a/c under the hood with a 3" dp
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by eviltwin_1987
There is more than enough room for a turbo and a/c under the hood with a 3" dp
I have seen your truck, which is beautiful man.

But I wanting to see clearance pictures.

Like the left side of the motor, the firewall/heaterbox area.
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by tylerdustin2008
I have seen your truck, which is beautiful man.

But I wanting to see clearance pictures.

Like the left side of the motor, the firewall/heaterbox area.
I don't have any pics on hand but I have an unmodified a/c header box and a 4" down pipe. Condenser between the intercooler and radiator. Your lucky your 2wd, you can just notch your frame and run the factory lq4 a/c compressor. I'm going to have to run an aftermarket compressor
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by eviltwin_1987
I don't have any pics on hand but I have an unmodified a/c header box and a 4" down pipe. Condenser between the intercooler and radiator. Your lucky your 2wd, you can just notch your frame and run the factory lq4 a/c compressor. I'm going to have to run an aftermarket compressor

Ok, well that does help allot.

But I am debating getting a relocation bracket.

$400 for the bracket and new compressor, and $225 for the necessary lines.

http://www.currentperformance.com/Swap_Parts/AC.html
http://www.currentperformance.com/Sw.../AC_Lines.html

I am only debating it because of the price a new compressor will be about $400.

And If I do it this way I was thinking of putting the turbo on the drivers side, making the crossover, and possibly running the downpipe somewhere on the drivers side.

Also how hard is it to really fab up custom headers?

I want to fab my own headers just to learn, and say I can do it. but I really don't want to spend $1000 on a tig from ebay. Not name brand, but I hope it does the trick if I decide to go that route. And also spend $600 on tubing, and end up wasting the money.

Thanks again.
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 08:10 AM
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make a set out of mild steel first and if it turns out good then do them in stainless. That way if you screw up the mild set you wont be out much. Id rather have a mild set and have them ceramic coated instead of just a stainless set uncoated in order to keep more heat from dissipating before it gets to your turbo. Running a down pipe on the drivers will be fun since you have the steering shaft and brake lines in the way
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Gonoma
make a set out of mild steel first and if it turns out good then do them in stainless. That way if you screw up the mild set you wont be out much. Id rather have a mild set and have them ceramic coated instead of just a stainless set uncoated in order to keep more heat from dissipating before it gets to your turbo. Running a down pipe on the drivers will be fun since you have the steering shaft and brake lines in the way
Yea, I was thinking to do it that way. Some places can do the 2000 degree base in red. Which would look damn good under my hood. I don't know but from the looks of it if I put the turbo on the drivers side, I "might" be able to run the downpipe back over top of the crossover, and exit through the passenger side.
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 03:53 PM
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this is mine im working on, just shooting for 550ish rwhp daily driver, tc78, 6.0 liter 4l80e, 12 bolt...
Attached Thumbnails S10 Front mount turbo.-small1.jpg   S10 Front mount turbo.-smalltech.jpg   S10 Front mount turbo.-small5.jpg  
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 04:47 PM
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My friend had an s-10 with the dp on the drivers side. 3" tubing but it was a tight fit. Buy the ls1 longtube header kit from speedway motors.it's hella cheap so it you screw up it won be that bi of deal. Also, don't but a cheap tig off eBay. If your gonna buy a welder, buy something name brand that's been proven so you only have to buy it once. Miller diversion 165 would be a good start.
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by eviltwin_1987
My friend had an s-10 with the dp on the drivers side. 3" tubing but it was a tight fit. Buy the ls1 longtube header kit from speedway motors.it's hella cheap so it you screw up it won be that bi of deal. Also, don't but a cheap tig off eBay. If your gonna buy a welder, buy something name brand that's been proven so you only have to buy it once. Miller diversion 165 would be a good start.
Do you mean this kit?

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Chevy-...Kits,6600.html

Only thing I am worried about is having enough bends to complete it. I am assuming I just have to hack the hell out of the kit.

As for that Welder, going for like $1300 on ebay. I wanted a get a miller but figured it was going to be way out of the price range. But $1300 is within the range for a Miller thats new, and my budget.

Which at this point isn't really a budget. I am looking to spend about $7,000 on new parts. And about $3,000 on new tools for the garage. But you get what you pay for, might as well do it first the right time so it doesn't break. Then I learn my lesson, then have to buy the right parts.

If you could, could you possibly get pictures of your clearance? I noticed you ran your downpipe along the flange area of the header. Have it clearance issues with the plugs?

Thanks.
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 10:17 AM
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Well I am getting my garage built, so I am getting close.

I had my fire a little to big....lol





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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 04:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 91blowthru
this is mine im working on, just shooting for 550ish rwhp daily driver, tc78, 6.0 liter 4l80e, 12 bolt...
That log looks really good. Do you think that setup would fit a 4x4?
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 05:16 AM
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4x4 S10 or fullsize?

im pretty sure it would fit both.. i dont know off hand what the shock setup is like on a 4x4 but the log is pretty tight to the block...
on my 2wd sonoma im just trimming the inner fender some, most of it will still be intact..
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