Turbo 5.3 in German Iron?


The alternative is to slap a turbo on using parts I already have laying. It may be more of a headache but building the car is 75% of the fun!
The setup that I am thinking about is a small-ish single, something like the following:
*Stock Iron Block 5.3 - Thought about the 317s I have laying around but figure that is lowering the compression too much.
*ARP Rod Bolts
*Otherwise bone stock with an LS1 intake.
*Backed by a G-Force built T5 (will be replaced with a TKO) and Spec Stage 3 Clutch (Lets not start the T56 debate)
*T70 with a .68 a/r. (This for faster spooling and lower HP)
*Truck manifolds modified with 2.5" V band fittings
*2.5" Hot side plumbing to a merge collector into a T4 flange. (some people say that you're better off with 2.25" pipe for greater velocity and faster spool. any truth?)
*Tial 38mm Waste Gate
*3" Down pipe out the back of the car
*2.5" Cold side piping through a cheap intercooler I have laying around to the intake.
*Tial Q BOV
What do you all think of this set up?
The goal is 400-450 usable hp. I do NOT want a dyno queen. This car is a street car with road course action in it's future. I do not want a laggy setup and only feel that I need about 7-8 PSI to make this car happy. I will be VERY limited in the traction department so more is a waste at the moment.
www.lsxe36m3.com
Does anyone have comments on how this turbo should work on the 5.3? I'm hoping to build boost early with a relatively low psi and hold it through the RPM range.
Is my A/R too small or should that be just about right for the direction of the car?
Does anyone have comments on how this turbo should work on the 5.3? I'm hoping to build boost early with a relatively low psi and hold it through the RPM range.
Is my A/R too small or should that be just about right for the direction of the car?
I wouldnt drop the compression so much, maybe leave the 5.3 heads on it if all you are going for is 400-450whp. It would spool a lot faster and you dont need low compression with what little boost you;re going to run.
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The weight difference isn't much either, and the power will make up for it anyways.
The original BMW power train actually was a bit heavier.
Aluminum block would be nice, but surely not needed. Unless you want to buy one for me.
The goal is to sort it out to be dead nuts reliable.





