I just want to add that boost is measure of restriction/resistance, don't get to caught up in boost numbers. A car might make 10lbs boost stock, add a good set of heads, cam and exhaust and you might only see 7-8lbs with the same pulley. The goal is to make your goal with the least amount of boost required within reason.

 

Not the same thing since your post was regarding a P1 and restrictive exhaust, a D1 with longtubes like the OP is building flows much more to begin with

 

OP...PM myself or chevychad if you want more info. Bob is also right, 8psi is pretty safe...run 10ish and your flirting with the devil lol

 

Thanks man, I'll definitely take you up on that. Again alot of great info in here, though some conflicting opinions make it a little difficult to figure what I should do. Thanks to all who are giving me advice, all options are being considered!!!

Thanks Jason

 

I have a 99 Transam and dynoed 537 to the wheels with stock 853 heads w patriot golds, stock bottom end, ls6 intake, 234/234 110lsa 591 lift cam from clay smith, D1SC 8lb boost, racetronix pump and 42 lb injectors, Kooks 1 7/8 headers off road y pipe and borla catback motor w/70,000 mi..... with just bolting on the d1 it put down 440 with a mail order tune and 42 lb injectors with bone stock car had that setup for 5 yr no problems motor wise (rear and clutch were a different story)

 

I am also in the same page as you I have a 98 also. It has D1sc also, 60lbs injectors, dual 255's pumps, ls6 intake, pace longtubes, ory with cutout, hooker exhaust, 317 heads, brute speed blower cam, straight meth, I got the giant air filter that bob recomended that gave which gave me 1.5lbs of boost. Car is making 10lbs of boost 599hp and 517torque. Its been two weeks with this setup hopefully it holds too till I save up for a forge bottom end.

 

Just putting in my 0.02. First off dude...I am getting ready to put a kit on my 2002 WS6 with 39k miles. It has a texas speed 228r @ 114 with .588/.588 and 228/228. i also have hooker 1 3/4 and a stall and dual springs and hardened pushrods and 3:73 gears. now let me tell you...although my cam is not necessarily a blower cam specifically....its damn near is. i will get extra horsepower from the blower without having to turn boost up as far...my goal too is 520-550rwhp. which btw is like 650rwhp on a svt cobra. this will be easily attainable. i have studied this topic until i feel i could advertise for ATI. the only person that can tell you more is Bob. i plan on doing 7 psi to make things last a little longer. I will be doing a single pump from racetronix with a set of bosch 60's and a tune from PCMforless. now...the heads will lower the compression ratio slightly...and make it slightly safer...but its really not the best option for you based on what your telling me. our 241 heads are cathedral ports and have thick flanges and are some of the best heads ever put on a motor. dont let these guys talk you into needing them..cuz you dont. theres a reason ls1 heads cost more than lq9 heads. now as far as the cam....you dont wanna go too big you say....and i suggest you dont...get my cam at 115 or 116 lsa or a thunder racing cam or a brutespeed cam at the highest lsa you can find......too big and it will indeed rob you on boost. valves will be opening and closing too late or too soon which will not be beneficial......methanol is also the other thing...its around 400 for a kit....it will cool that motor down and make it last and last and last under boost. especially on track nites id have methanol injection. i am quite sure the racetronix will hold up to this horsepower level for at least a year and after that i will forge and add another when either the rod bolts or head gaskets or i drop a piston or a 10bolt or a 4l60e.....either way...something is going to break no matter what. you just have to fix it each and every time and make it so strong that it will never break again. i suggest you look into a moser 9 inch, a FLT stage5 or 6 4l60e, diamond -2cc pistons, callie mains, and eagle rods, and arp bolts, and a damn good tuner. if i were you....id get the cam, and headers, and the kit with methanol and be done. itll last a while like that. and dont launch it from stops if possible. and the other important thing is get a set of gauges. the ones i think are most beneficial to have in your a pillar are a wideband 02 a/f, a boost, and a fuel pressure. these can help you to know when there is a problem and when to take the belt off if need be. i have an autometer triple pillar and got my gauges from Glowshift because i think they have a good quality and they change colors on command or alternate automatically and look fantastic.