i just bought a 1999 camaro z28 and it has alcohol injection, p1sc is running on 10 to 12 pounds. it has a full roll cage, 12 moser rear end with 4:11. upgrade injectors. stock motor completely. it has a diablo tuner and it dynoed t 475hp to the wheels. im in arizona where the elevation is high. oh and it has a upgraded driveshaft and a built 4l80 transmission with a 3600 stall. it has a stand alone fuel pump that connects to the stock one but i know its way better than the 255 walbro one. what heads and cam do you recommend? or what should i do? he said it ran a 12 flat on slicks. im trying to beat a mustang that ran a 10.64 help me please?

 

Lose some weight out of the car. The Brute speed cam seems to do pretty well for blown cars as well. Heads and cam alone aren't going to wake it up enough. I'd also get a full tune...not some hand held programmer tune. What has the car ran before?

 

I agree, you'll going to have to get a dyno tune. It will be mandatory after adding either a cam or better flowing heads. You can get into the 10's with a good cam if the car 60 ft's decently. Take a look at what our '95 Formula does, and the LT1 engine doesn't make the power ours will be. http://shop.brutespeed.com/Brute-Spe...ed-Formula.htm

Here is a link to our blower camshaft, which will need upgraded valvesprings and I would add the stronger pushrods. http://shop.brutespeed.com/Comp-Brut...n-Camshaft.htm

I would also add this longer air filter in place of the ProCharger supplied air filter. The standard filter becomes very restrictive at higher boost levels. http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-AF056...AF056I-009.htm

How much boost the blower can produce depends on many variables, see the list below. When you swap out the camshaft you will lose some boost unless you go to a smaller pulley on the head unit. ProCharger smaller pulley's (to get back the boost) will cause the belt to have less wrap around the pulley, which can cause slippage.

* Cubic inch. The larger the engine the less boost it will make with a supercharger.
* Headers and exhaust. A better flowing system will produce less boost, requires a smaller pulley to regain the loss in boost. Ultimately though, more power will be gained.
* Camshaft and heads. A camshaft with some overlap will leak out some boost through the valves. Better flowing heads react a lot like a better flowing exhaust system.
* Altitude. Elevation plays a big part in how much boost is produced. Those people living in the higher elevations have to spin the blower harder to see boost.
* Condition of engine. An engine with real good sealing rings will ultimately produce more boost than one with worn rings.
* Rpm. An engine that is spun up higher in the rpm range will normally produce more boost.

You're probably have to convert over from the 6 rib to an eight rib set-up, assuming your P-1SC has the 6 rib belt. The 6 rib uses a small 6.0" dia crank pulley, the 8 rib uses a much larger 7.65 crank pulley. This larger pulley alone will produce more boost as it will spin the blower faster. Here is a link to the eight rib upgrade kit. http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-1GJ11...-1GJ115-08.htm Bob

 

Oh, and if the car doesn't have subframe connectors on it, I'll get them added right away. Here is a link to the ones I prefer to use. http://shop.brutespeed.com/BMR-SFC00...BMR-SFC001.htm Subframe connnectors help to prevent the body from stretching apart. You may already have them since the car has a cage.

LCA relocation brackets will also help your 60ft times if your 12 bolt doesn't have them. Here is a link to the ones I prefer. http://shop.brutespeed.com/BMR-CAB00...BMR-CAB001.htm

I'd go with either M/T ET Street & Strip tires or their drag radials. My Z28 cut 1.29 60 ft times on M/T 235/50R15 drag radials.

Double adjustable front shocks make a huge difference! If your car doesn't have them, I'd add them. I used the QA1 double adjustable coil over front shocks and 300lb springs, shown at this link. http://shop.brutespeed.com/QA1-HAL-9...ody-Shocks.htm Bob