hitmanws6

iTrader: (20)

Not sure where all this barely breaking 500 is coming from. Go to GM High Techs website and find Sgt. John Blossick's TA. Here's a vid of it making 518/526 with a LPE GT2-3 cam and bolt ons at 7 psi

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIGtbMMl9jg

LS1-IROC

iTrader: (4)

Reread the thread...he's talking NON-INTERCOOLED. Anybody who knows about these style blowers knows the power they are capable of....but they have to be intercooled or else it's not worth the time or money. I'm certainly not a hater of these blowers...there is a brand new MP112 sitting on my workbench

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

A blower isnt like a turbo. It is constantly spinning. A BPV vents the boost out of the charge tubing when it's not needed

skyhighsami

iTrader: (8)

If you can build an intake for a MP112 why not turbo charge it? Seriously. You run a small tire, a little lag could help that. You have a high rear gear and tranny gearing. It'd help load the turbo and would act as a muffler and help quiet down the exhaust which building a Jag you'd think you'd want it as luxurious as possible. Seriously read and consider it. A 67 mid or rear mounted would be fantastic

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

I understand that. However, a properly working bypass valve should literally bypass the rotors by allowing the air to pass from the throttle body directly into the manifold after the supercharger rotors. Effectively, this bypasses the rotors of the supercharger by allowing the intake air an alternate path to the heads. As a result, the rotors are spinning, but not really pumping - and when I say pumping, I mean moving air and creating compression, which will eventually build heat.

This is how I understand it - can someone verify this?

If you're building air heat at idle, you may have an insufficient or ineffective bypass system, or maybe too much rotor speed at idle, or both?

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

I started out with turbos in mind. For the reasons you stated, my car is an almost ideal candidate.

My engine bay is narrow in all the wrong places. It has the steering shaft from hell on the driver's side and a big bulky front crossmember. My engine also sits forward a little farther than necessary due to limited transmission tunnel clearance, so room in front of the engine is limited. I really wanted to do the turbo setup, but I can't figure out a way to package it that I'm happy with.

The supercharger route looks much easier. To do a turbo setup up to my standards would be A LOT of work and VERY expensive. I don't think the car is worth it.

It's a shame because I really do enjoy driving turbo cars. I almost wish I would have built a 4.2L Vortec straight-six and turbo'd that. Packaging would have been a breeze compared to the V8 route.

I don't have the room to tuck up the return pipes for a rear mount, especially with my crazy IRS. I am not willing to compromise on the ground clearance - the car is low enough as it is.

So now I am going to start throwing numbers out. 400 rwhp on 7 psi with a non-intercooled MP112?

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

I can unhook the charge pipe and let the SC blow into the atmosphere. If you put your hand over it feels like a very powerful hair dryer. Heat is just a byproduct of air being compressed, Eaton's just produce an excess of it compared to other SC's just by design

400hp? Go for it, should have little trouble

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

The supercharger mounting bolts are blind holes - the bolts go through the mounting flange from the bottom and screw into the supercharger case. As a result, the manifold pretty much has to be a 2-piece design.

I think I am going to make the top piece of the manifold about an inch higher than it needs to be. If I can't make enough power without an intercooler, I can always make a new top piece with a 1.25" thick intercooler core in it (similar to the ones found on the Mustangs, only not as deep.)

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

Try to fit some of these in there
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lamin...item2a0cf67ea6

They're ultra small and the most efficient heat exchanger on the market currently

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

I was looking at those earlier. I didn't read up on them a whole lot I think I would need about 4, but might be able to get away with 3. I don't like the way there is such a small opening for the air to pass around them. It seems like it would be restrictive? Also, plumbing it would be a PITA. You'd have a lot riding on some big O-rings.

I wish I could find a place that sells A2W cores that doesn't break the bank. A properly sized core from Bell would be about $300 for the core only. That seems like a lot for a little chunk of radiator.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

What about a procharger?

For the horsepower your looking to acheive, a nice set of heads and a mild cam will make that power easily. Hell, lots of people making 400rwhp with a large cam, but then drivability starts to suffer in my opinion.

I know you said it's low compression, but changing out the pistons or running a set of heads that are milled a good amount good bump you up to where you want to be.

Just throwing suggestions out there.

hellbents10

iTrader: (10)

10,00rpm from a 112 lol!! That is a good one I bet it only makes 350 to the tires max.

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

If you were building a non-intercooled MP112 setup on my LS1 w/8.5:1 CR (and I know you never would, but work with me here) what would be your ideal rotor speed at the engine's 6,000 RPM redline? What are the reasons for that rotor speed?

Share your detailed info/detailed experience!

skyhighsami

iTrader: (8)

He is very knowledgeable. I'm sure he can answer any question you could have.

skyhighsami

iTrader: (8)

Not really. 300 for something that will make your setup more efficient seems like a bargain to be. Why struggle to make 400 when you could add an IC and run less boost and cylinder pressure. Do it right the first time.

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

It's not intercooled. Look at the delta T for 10k at 5psi. Sure, he wont be near 5psi spinning that slow, but the temps are already a problem. With something to get the temps under control he def should spin it up

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

$300 is just the beginning. There's the pump, heat exchanger, reservoir, hoses, fittings, and extra fab work.

There is a chance that I might finish the non-intercooled setup and say "Ya know, I've put enough time/money/energy into this car. I've been working on it for years. I'm getting tired of working on it. Maybe I'll get a new car/motorcycle/boat/other thing and spend my time/money/energy on that."

I bit off more than I could chew when I started this project, and I'm paying dearly for it now. If I could do it all over again, I would have had much less ambitious horsepower goals.

I want to know how far a non-intercooled setup will take me, and what I can do to optimize it without sacrificing driveability and without breaking the bank. I'm looking for bang for the buck.

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

So at what point (how many degrees F) does the IAT temp become a problem? I know cooler is better - I know that. But at what temp F does it really start to get bad?

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

I checked out your link of your build.... I still think you should try and fit a procharger in there. You've come this far with your fabrication, it shouldn't be too tough to get a procharger in there now.

John H

Just doesn't seem like a good idea, i'd just run the intercooler and be safe and happy!