problem with procharger breaking belt
problem with procharger breaking belt Finally got trans fixed, now Im breaking belts. I spoke with a local shop that specializes in superchargers and turbos and he says my factory ati valve is too small and the extra boost makes the belt jump/break when the throttle closes. What are my options, add extra factory ati valve, upgrade to red race valve or get bov with boost controller. I'm leaning toward the bov with controller. I have this controller and bov left over from my turbo build
unknown psi, 347, d1sc 3.4 pulley
tuner is going to limit my tune with full timing to 15psi due to water pushing.
unknown psi, 347, d1sc 3.4 pulley
tuner is going to limit my tune with full timing to 15psi due to water pushing.
Last edited by pdasterly; Apr 12, 2011 at 03:54 PM.
I would seriously recommend upgrading the bypass valve to a race valve. You are putting a lot of load on the internals of the blower if the air can't get out fast enough and backs up into it. Trust me when I say you don't want to crash the bearings on the impeller. You will be looking at a whole new head unit if that happens. It happened to me on the P1 using the proflow valve with a 3.4" pulley years ago and that was Procharger's diagnosis.
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Here is a link to where I sell the race bypass valves.
http://shop.brutespeed.com/ProCharge...alves_c347.htm Bob
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ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
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I snapped my belt at the track, they found out that some of the brackets made by procharger was just a hair off which caused the belt to be off alignment and snap under load. The shop I use, Straightline Performance called procharger and they were able to help out with that and get a new one. So I'd say give procharger a call and see what they say. Hope that helps a little.
8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
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I like the idea of unbolting your head unit pulley, taking any spacers out from behind the pulley that you may currently have, then starting your car up and let it idle momentarily, then turn it off. This will allow the head unit pulley align itself. Then, carefully measure the spacing the pulley has ended up away from the head unit, and use that as your shim dimension.
Cant remember who suggested that, but I remember seeing it on here somewhere.
Cant remember who suggested that, but I remember seeing it on here somewhere.
I like the idea of unbolting your head unit pulley, taking any spacers out from behind the pulley that you may currently have, then starting your car up and let it idle momentarily, then turn it off. This will allow the head unit pulley align itself. Then, carefully measure the spacing the pulley has ended up away from the head unit, and use that as your shim dimension.
Cant remember who suggested that, but I remember seeing it on here somewhere.
Cant remember who suggested that, but I remember seeing it on here somewhere.
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
A Bit difficult to accomplish on an f body. Have you checked and made sure the belt isn't contacting the bracket itself? Also were you running an added pulley on a machined boutin stand off? Something there could be off.
