yelo04goat

iTrader: (11)

Just got my kit today.... but I think a few things are missing...

Good info here.

madmax4499

iTrader: (3)

he said it was not progresive, yes 10 psi turn on seems just right to me. just before you need it for octane and cooling. that seems fine for a 50/50 mix. might be to much for 100% meth, you would be pulling a ton of fuel to get you AFR back in check.

Clyde H Frasier Jr

Call the guys at Race Proven Motorsports @ 1-302-798-4000 ask for Fran.
They use 100% meth in my 402 disc setup and I make great power.

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

My boost comes in VERY hard...I think if I start spraying it by 10, it will hit the engine around 12psi(it really comes in that strong) Also, for you guys wanting 100% meth, in order to get the same cooling properties as water, you need to spray 3 times the amount. Not to mention, its extremely flammable. The smallest leak will give you huge problems. Also, if you use 100% meth, you have to vent the tank to the outside, again, or you will have issues. For me(and other people) 50/50 seems to give the best of both worlds. You get the cooling and det. suppression from the water, and the cooling and octane boost from the meth.

driven87

iTrader: (1)

x2 there is more of a cushion for error..

stevieturbo

Except if there is any problem whatsoever when running 100% meth. Reduced flow, dodgy pump, whatever. You will destroy your engine. IMO there is less of a cushion when you are replacing lots of your normal fuel, with methanol.

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

I was seeing constant 130's on the T/A. Those dinky 4.5" I/C's withe the D1 weren't keeping up with the power. After the meth, it would never go above 85* IAT's, and that's with 100* summers.

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

You have that backwards. If the meth fails..so will your engine. Since its a fuel. The more meth you add the more fuel you have to pull...would be pretty scary to go from 11.8 to 13.0 at 18psi....

Frost

iTrader: (45)

Don't buy a crappy methanol kit and you can lose the worry. I have Alkycontrol kits in cars now for almost 6 years that are still going strong and without hiccup. For peace of mind, I'd recommend the pumps go back to Julio every couple of years in the off season, but most folks ignore that recommendation.

There are more reasons for 100% methanol but I'm eating and I have another car here waiting to get back to...

stevieturbo

They all use the same pumps, so dont see how one can claim theirs is miles above another.
What makes Alky's so special ?

All the controllers operate on similar principals, aside from the Aquamist, which is considerably better and more expensive.

And then nozzle design and holder design are the only other variatons. And TBH, AEM are the nices ones Ive seen so far

And whilst Ive no doubt Alky control is as good as any other kit, some might say better. His thinking that big blobby soldered joints are better and more reliable than a proepr crimp instantly makes me steer away from his kits.

Show me a horrible soldered joint like that in an aircraft or Mil-spec loom...or even an OEM loom, and then I'll maybe believe him.
But you wont. Soldered joints are never a first choice in a properly made loom.

I will agree with his thinking about the actual tank and lines though. Especially if using 100% methanol.
Although I still retain nylon lines myself. Just because they are so damn easy to work with. Although I no longer use 100% and now use 50/50

Of all the tanks though, AIS is the best Ive seen.

67RSCamaroVette

iTrader: (63)

You'd rather have a crimp connection than a soldered joint? You're crazy. Solder doesn't create resistance in the circuit, and it doesn't allow corrosion to accumulate inside the void in a crimp connection. My 40+ year old wiring in my '67 camaro showed just this.. The soldered eyelets were in perfect shape, but I had opens all over the place where the connections were crimped.

stevieturbo

Solder is a poorer conductor than copper. Introducing it into a connection, is never a good thing.


And once again. Show me an aircraft loom or Mil-spec loom, or indeed an OEM loom that uses soldered joints ?
Or any loom made for top level motorsport. WRC, F1 etc They will never routinely use a soldered joint.

They offer higher resistance, and potential fracture points in cables.

And you are maybe confusing a poorly made crimp with a properly made crimp.

A proper crimp will be stronger than the wire itself. I dont see how it could possibly corrode unless it hasnt been designed and finished correctly. If it is in a harsh environment obviously it will need sealed. Again, you are blaming poor workmanship over the technique.

Likewise high voltage or big power terminations that either power your house, or huge factories. Solder is never used. Everything is crimped, with proper crimp tools and connections of course.


If you dont have the correct tooling to make crimps, then yes soldering is easier. And that's why most of us do solder, including myself.
But I dont do it because I think it's better. It's because proper crimp tools cost a fortune, and soldering is just easier to make work for most stuff.

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

Im running an AIS system as well. But I have to agree with stevie on the solder. Every since wire connection made on my car is first twisted together, then solders then heat shrinked. It proves a solid corrosion free connection that will NOT rattle loose.

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

A buddy of mine has an AIS kit as well and has 2 7ghp nozzles. I installed them tonight until my 10s get here. I wonder if ill notice a difference stepping up from the 5s to the 7s.

Johnv

If you go to big with a water/ meth mix it can put the fire out and cause the engine to bog.
Straight meth doesn't tend to do that.

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

Im sticking with 50/50. Ill let you guys know the results of upping to the twin 7s tomorrow..and again to the twin 10s when they come in hopefully by Friday.

1320

iTrader: (6)

If that is happening with water, then the afr is prob below 9 to 1 with meth. Sure itll fire, but be so rich that it wont really matter.

Either way you have to pull back gas and with water you pull less. There is a thread here somewhere, of testing on the dyno. With tuning, and proper fuel, straight water made significantly more power then meth. Even 50-50 is very flamable btw.


Oh, and crimps are used in offroad because the soldered joints do crack and break where a crimp has flexability to it. Not that a street car sees the vibration a trophy truck does, but they do it for reliability.

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

a little off topic but...

the ideal joint would have:
a good mechanical hold.
the lowest electrical resistance possible.
complete corrosion resistance


this is way overkill for most circuits we deal with on autos but:

properly crimp for a good MECHANICAL connection.
silver solder for a better electrical connection and some corrosion resistance.. (contrary to what someone said above, this greatly reduces resistance)
cover the entire joint with thick, self sealing piece of heatshrink well past the joint. this acts as a stress reliever for the ends of the wire meeting the joint. and insulator, and a first line corrosion prevention.


the reason you dont see solder on most OEM harneses is mostly cost(and the fact they use well designed crimps that can carry the amperage they require and are sealed in the housing). on the rare occasion that the cost justifys it, they CRIMP then SOLDER the connection.. there are points on cars where they did this, well into the 80s..
this point was usually the high amperage power line split between the alternator, where it went back to the battery and where it went to the ignition and fuse block.
past the 80s, they just redesigned the electrical system with more fuses, sometimes multiple fuse blocks and made common high amperage junction blocks underhood (that insulated bolt you see nowdays)



if you solder two flexible wires together, with no crimp, it lacks mechanical connection.. in a vibration prone environment, its possible for it to crack... unlikely with the minimal weight of most automotive wires, as long as theres no part attached pulling, but its still possible.

if you just crimp them... done properly, most of your harness is that way anyway. Corrosion is only an issue if you dont use sealed connectors... notice how the factory seals them.. use metri-pack, weather-pack, etc and no problem.... if you're crimping ring terminals, use sealing heatshrink, plasti dip.. etc.. and if you're using cheap ring terminals for anything that pulls decent amperage, PLEASE solder it after you crimp it. you'll notice the connection doesnt get nearly has hot if you do that.
and a crimp done improperly... sucks. gets hot. corrodes. comes loose.. etc.

driven87

iTrader: (1)

lol i meant a cushion over running a 50/50 mix...hell if a fuel pump in general goes bad your gonna toast your motor alky or no alky.

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

Thats how I feel. When dealing with performance its a risk you have to take..and that goes with any part. Oil pump,fuel pump, connecting rod,ect....its all part of the game.