D1SC set up with IPS tune finished
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From: Zanesfield, OH
D1SC set up with IPS tune finished The car's results exceeds my expectations. I just hope the stock bottom end will take the abuse. I usually dont lean on it real hard constantly so I hope I can make it live for a long while.
Results: 594whp/533tq
Min AFR 11.1, Max 11.6, avg 11.3
15 or 16 deg timing
Stock bottom LS1
Kooks 1 7/8" long tubes
Corsa catback
Lonnies twin fuel pump in tank set up
D1SC procharger, twin 4.5 IC's, 8 rib, 3.85 blower pulley 10psi max boost
EPS cam 226/234 .598/.612 114+2
Mcleod RST Twin Clutch
Let me know what you guys think about the results. Tune seems safe, they said the IAT's looked really good and it was making enough power no reason to go real aggressive with the tune. I leave for power tour on tuesday so I will start leaning on it hard this weekend to get a feel for it before I leave.
Results: 594whp/533tq
Min AFR 11.1, Max 11.6, avg 11.3
15 or 16 deg timing
Stock bottom LS1
Kooks 1 7/8" long tubes
Corsa catback
Lonnies twin fuel pump in tank set up
D1SC procharger, twin 4.5 IC's, 8 rib, 3.85 blower pulley 10psi max boost
EPS cam 226/234 .598/.612 114+2
Mcleod RST Twin Clutch
Let me know what you guys think about the results. Tune seems safe, they said the IAT's looked really good and it was making enough power no reason to go real aggressive with the tune. I leave for power tour on tuesday so I will start leaning on it hard this weekend to get a feel for it before I leave.
I'm glad it all came together for you, good luck on the Power Tour. Bob
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From: Zanesfield, OH
The max boost we seen on the dyno was 9.9lbs, like I said a bit more than I was looking for so I hope the engine can still live a long life??
I see over 10 on my boost gauge though more towards 10.5-11lbs so I need to call IPS to understand how they logged boost and understand which one I should believe. Maybe on the street the intercoolers are more efficient and it is making more boost if that is the case then I might get a larger pulley to bring the boost and power back down to a safe range for a stock bottom end.
I see over 10 on my boost gauge though more towards 10.5-11lbs so I need to call IPS to understand how they logged boost and understand which one I should believe. Maybe on the street the intercoolers are more efficient and it is making more boost if that is the case then I might get a larger pulley to bring the boost and power back down to a safe range for a stock bottom end.
nice numbers. obviously, your motor will only last so long with that kind of power. however, if you drop the boost to 7 or 8 psi, i can't guarantee you will gain much reliability. i could be wrong, but i have a feeling i would just run it how you have it!
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From: Zanesfield, OH
What is everyones opinion on the boost level. I know some have survived a long time at 10psi. I am not hard on the car so it will never see long highway pulls or anything like that. I might go to the track once or twice a year. So with that drive style do you think the 10psi is a big problem?
What about short shifting as a fix to the problem?
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Are you running stock compression? I don't think 16 degree of timing with 10.2:1 comression, 10lbs of boost and pump gas is that safe... I would throw a meth kit on for added safety, not to push the tune. One bad tank of gas will ruin your day, not many people in my area buy premium so it's usually not fresh.
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From: Zanesfield, OH
Are you running stock compression? I don't think 16 degree of timing with 10.2:1 comression, 10lbs of boost and pump gas is that safe... I would throw a meth kit on for added safety, not to push the tune. One bad tank of gas will ruin your day, not many people in my area buy premium so it's usually not fresh.
IPS said it was usually making 9psi, on the dyno graph they gave me it peaked at 9.9 at 6100rpm. I need to ask them tomorrow how they logged the boost data.
What about shifting the car at say 5600-5800 to keep the boost more towards 8psi?
What driving style will most likely hurt the engine. Under most driving conditions I have no reason to take it to redline with this much power. I never do long drawn out highway pulls so the engine under constant high boost will never happen. I usually get it up to speed and then it is cruising, but when I do take it up when driving it hard it is WOT.
A 4.50 pulley/7.65 crank pulley with a D-1SC and headers and exhaust will normally get you in the 8 psi range. Bob
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My boost gauge is acting really really weird, I think the sending unit might be no good. Last night it wouldn't read any vacuum at all so I checked it with a machanical vacuum gauge and vacuum was find. Hooked the sending unit back to the autometer and it read fine. Basically I cant trust the boost gauge so I am not sure how much boost it is making for sure.
IPS said it was usually making 9psi, on the dyno graph they gave me it peaked at 9.9 at 6100rpm. I need to ask them tomorrow how they logged the boost data.
What about shifting the car at say 5600-5800 to keep the boost more towards 8psi?
What driving style will most likely hurt the engine. Under most driving conditions I have no reason to take it to redline with this much power. I never do long drawn out highway pulls so the engine under constant high boost will never happen. I usually get it up to speed and then it is cruising, but when I do take it up when driving it hard it is WOT.
IPS said it was usually making 9psi, on the dyno graph they gave me it peaked at 9.9 at 6100rpm. I need to ask them tomorrow how they logged the boost data.
What about shifting the car at say 5600-5800 to keep the boost more towards 8psi?
What driving style will most likely hurt the engine. Under most driving conditions I have no reason to take it to redline with this much power. I never do long drawn out highway pulls so the engine under constant high boost will never happen. I usually get it up to speed and then it is cruising, but when I do take it up when driving it hard it is WOT.
Bob
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We're sort of hijacking this thread here, but I'd try a 4.12 pulley for 8 psi. Bob
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From: Zanesfield, OH
Thread Starter
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From: Zanesfield, OH
No problem on the hijack guys. You see my cam selection but I am no cam expert so I am not sure if my cam bleeds off more boost or yours will. I posted above my pulley combo so hopefully it helps make your decision.
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Can anyone else give me tips to keep this engine alive? Is it OK?
IPS said it was normaly in the 9psi range on pulls but the one dyno graph they gave me peaked at 9.9. I am going to try and scan in the graph and post it. to let you guys see the results and maybe better understand how it is making the power.
As far as timing goes he also said that timing was normally at 15deg, but depending on other factors real world it could also see 16deg. So between 15-16, is that save with the AFR I have?
IPS said it was normaly in the 9psi range on pulls but the one dyno graph they gave me peaked at 9.9. I am going to try and scan in the graph and post it. to let you guys see the results and maybe better understand how it is making the power.
As far as timing goes he also said that timing was normally at 15deg, but depending on other factors real world it could also see 16deg. So between 15-16, is that save with the AFR I have?
I ran my car VERY hard on 10psi with my D1 setup. I highly suggest methanol as well....I think that's what helped keep mine alive. My Target AFR was 11.1 and stayed right around there.....11.6 is a little lean for my liking. I ran my setup for over 40K miles with no major problems and I raced it a lot and did a ton of highway pulls all the time.
Put it to you like this.
I run 11#'s all day.
I have a targeted AFR of 10.8:1 when the map sensor senses boost.
My timing is set at 12 degrees.
I run 99% M1 methanol in my boost cooler resevoir
Made 640 at 11#s thru a T-56/12 bolt and on a Dynojet.
It's been alive for over 30k miles now because of the low timing, conversative safe AFR, and Meth injection. My IAT's on the highway are around 70-90 and during stop and go around 110-120 and at the track between 90-120.
I would definately look into getting the timing down 2 degrees to 14 and a meth kit if you want the motor to survive. I'd leave the boost alone, and just back the timing off and add the meth. The meth will help richen the tune up itself along with dropping IAT's.
I run 11#'s all day.
I have a targeted AFR of 10.8:1 when the map sensor senses boost.
My timing is set at 12 degrees.
I run 99% M1 methanol in my boost cooler resevoir
Made 640 at 11#s thru a T-56/12 bolt and on a Dynojet.
It's been alive for over 30k miles now because of the low timing, conversative safe AFR, and Meth injection. My IAT's on the highway are around 70-90 and during stop and go around 110-120 and at the track between 90-120.
I would definately look into getting the timing down 2 degrees to 14 and a meth kit if you want the motor to survive. I'd leave the boost alone, and just back the timing off and add the meth. The meth will help richen the tune up itself along with dropping IAT's.
Can anyone else give me tips to keep this engine alive? Is it OK?
IPS said it was normaly in the 9psi range on pulls but the one dyno graph they gave me peaked at 9.9. I am going to try and scan in the graph and post it. to let you guys see the results and maybe better understand how it is making the power.
As far as timing goes he also said that timing was normally at 15deg, but depending on other factors real world it could also see 16deg. So between 15-16, is that save with the AFR I have?
IPS said it was normaly in the 9psi range on pulls but the one dyno graph they gave me peaked at 9.9. I am going to try and scan in the graph and post it. to let you guys see the results and maybe better understand how it is making the power.
As far as timing goes he also said that timing was normally at 15deg, but depending on other factors real world it could also see 16deg. So between 15-16, is that save with the AFR I have?
I'm just like you, I rarely put the car on the highway, and most of my 1000 miles I drive each year are on backroads, so I'm hoping to be able to keep it safe for a while. By the fall, I plan to put a methanol kit on the car to boost the octane and to cool the intake charge. Then, it's a matter of save over the winter for a forged bottom end.
That's my plan. I was simply asking about your pully selection because one, I don't want to overboost the motor, but I also don't want to put a pulley on it, and realize that because of my badass heads, and cam selection that I only see like 4-5 lbs of boost.
If I were you on the power tour, I'd pick up a dozen cans or so of octane booster and add a can everytime you fill up. It's not the cheapest option, but it'll be a heck of a lot cheaper than a long distance tow or rebuilding the shortblock when you get home.