Looking for D1SC Cam Specs for Street Car
#1
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Took out my big blower cam and I am looking for something that is completely drive-able now. No cam surge, hot start issues, ect.
Was thinking about a 224/228 on a 113 but I am unsure about other specs I need to get a custom grind. Any suggestions?
Was thinking about a 224/228 on a 113 but I am unsure about other specs I need to get a custom grind. Any suggestions?
#3
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What size is your motor? If you want a comfortable cam look into some of the smaller blower cams. You don't need a big cam to make power with FI.
If you want a more stock like drivability you could look at something like the TR blower cam. 214/230 .601/.579 117 LSA. I have a guy who made 740/66x with it through ported 241 heads with a 347 and tighter exhaust than you and he isn't spinning his blower as fast as you are.
Otherwise if you want a little more you could go for something like mine. 224/240 .620/~.610 116+4 (These are rough specs, it was a custom Cam Motion grind and the shop it was shipped to lost the cam card years back). The cam drives comfortably in my 383 with a nice sound and I don’t have any problems with idle hunting or stalling even when I turn the AC on.
If you want a more stock like drivability you could look at something like the TR blower cam. 214/230 .601/.579 117 LSA. I have a guy who made 740/66x with it through ported 241 heads with a 347 and tighter exhaust than you and he isn't spinning his blower as fast as you are.
Otherwise if you want a little more you could go for something like mine. 224/240 .620/~.610 116+4 (These are rough specs, it was a custom Cam Motion grind and the shop it was shipped to lost the cam card years back). The cam drives comfortably in my 383 with a nice sound and I don’t have any problems with idle hunting or stalling even when I turn the AC on.
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What size is your motor? If you want a comfortable cam look into some of the smaller blower cams. You don't need a big cam to make power with FI.
If you want a more stock like drivability you could look at something like the TR blower cam. 214/230 .601/.579 117 LSA. I have a guy who made 740/66x with it through ported 241 heads with a 347 and tighter exhaust than you and he isn't spinning his blower as fast as you are.
Otherwise if you want a little more you could go for something like mine. 224/240 .620/~.610 116+4 (These are rough specs, it was a custom Cam Motion grind and the shop it was shipped to lost the cam card years back). The cam drives comfortably in my 383 with a nice sound and I don’t have any problems with idle hunting or stalling even when I turn the AC on.
If you want a more stock like drivability you could look at something like the TR blower cam. 214/230 .601/.579 117 LSA. I have a guy who made 740/66x with it through ported 241 heads with a 347 and tighter exhaust than you and he isn't spinning his blower as fast as you are.
Otherwise if you want a little more you could go for something like mine. 224/240 .620/~.610 116+4 (These are rough specs, it was a custom Cam Motion grind and the shop it was shipped to lost the cam card years back). The cam drives comfortably in my 383 with a nice sound and I don’t have any problems with idle hunting or stalling even when I turn the AC on.
Yea, Thunder racing has a 224/227 blower cam but heard the ramp rate wasn't as aggressive as it could be.
The cam was pulled out of Cable Bandit's motor and we have the cam card but Steve and a few other guys feel the cam is way larger...maybe a 238/238 or something
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210/218 .551/.551 114+4 (1800-6000k power range)
224/232 .590/.600 113+4 or 114+4 (2400-6400k power range)
Hope this helps.
Thanks, Joe
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Hey man, i am a friend of Steve's which he does all the tuning for my engines and other combinations and he is familiar with some of my cam profiles. I noticed you said you pulled out a BIG blower cam, I am curious on how big that really was? Also, what is your intended rpm range of the new cam you are wanting and what current parts/pieces are in your motor/valvetrain now? Please inform me of all the current specs of the car also. I would be glad to help you out, but here are 2 grinds I use in 346 D1 stuff for your info. These are both Crane cams:
210/218 .551/.551 114+4 (1800-6000k power range)
224/232 .590/.600 113+4 or 114+4 (2400-6400k power range)
Hope this helps.
Thanks, Joe
210/218 .551/.551 114+4 (1800-6000k power range)
224/232 .590/.600 113+4 or 114+4 (2400-6400k power range)
Hope this helps.
Thanks, Joe
Built 347 with around 10.3 compression. AFR 225 heads with stock rockers. We really weren't sure what size cam I had but it was huge and Steve put TONS of time into my car but still had some slight cam surge and hot start problems. We even made a dual IAT sensor set up to have one sensor in the bumper away from heat soak and other in the intake by the TB to detect the methanol IAT.
I just want something that drives perfectly but gives as much power as possible. I also am ditching my twin disk for a Textralia Z-grip HD and putting an enclosed bypass to quiet it down. I just want the car to be more enjoyable to drive.
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Yea, I'm really good friends with Steve but I moved down to the beach for the summer and he's swamped with work so I just wanted to get some ideas on the board.
Built 347 with around 10.3 compression. AFR 225 heads with stock rockers. We really weren't sure what size cam I had but it was huge and Steve put TONS of time into my car but still had some slight cam surge and hot start problems. We even made a dual IAT sensor set up to have one sensor in the bumper away from heat soak and other in the intake by the TB to detect the methanol IAT.
I just want something that drives perfectly but gives as much power as possible. I also am ditching my twin disk for a Textralia Z-grip HD and putting an enclosed bypass to quiet it down. I just want the car to be more enjoyable to drive.
Built 347 with around 10.3 compression. AFR 225 heads with stock rockers. We really weren't sure what size cam I had but it was huge and Steve put TONS of time into my car but still had some slight cam surge and hot start problems. We even made a dual IAT sensor set up to have one sensor in the bumper away from heat soak and other in the intake by the TB to detect the methanol IAT.
I just want something that drives perfectly but gives as much power as possible. I also am ditching my twin disk for a Textralia Z-grip HD and putting an enclosed bypass to quiet it down. I just want the car to be more enjoyable to drive.
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Custom Crane: 224/232 .590/.600 114+4 (LSHS int. lobe/HR5 exh. lobe)
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#19
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Ok great. Little to much head for a 347 imo for what you are doing, but it still works awesome and has a great exhaust port.
If you are wanting really good power/torque with excellent street manners and power everywhere, I would suggest doing the 2nd cam design I mentioned. It will give you exactly what you want, no surging, power everywhere and drive stock if Steve tunes it. ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Custom Crane: 224/232 .590/.600 114+4 (LSHS int. lobe/HR5 exh. lobe)
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Custom Crane: 224/232 .590/.600 114+4 (LSHS int. lobe/HR5 exh. lobe)
I messed up, haven't been thinking about my car at the beach...haha
I have AFR 205's that have been milled a little
Awesome, thanks! I'm going to give him a call when I come back to VA this weekend and run it by him before I order.
Also, where is the best place to order that cam from? Was on Texas Speeds website and cant match up those cam specs.
Last edited by AFASTYZFR1; 06-22-2011 at 09:14 AM.